Ulrich
Well-known member
Looks like I am at it again. Rear brake this time. They have now 12,000 miles on them and are not through yet, but the old pads will make great emergency spares ... so here I go:
I ordered a set of EBC FA749HH pads ... that is the model EBC references for the R18
I took off the saddle bag and muffler on the left side. It can be done without removing the muffler .. just a bit tighter than I like
And yes, if you are wondering, these re not BMW muffler mounts .. I use an aftermarket set that fastens differently ...
Clip the zip-tie near the little clip.
Take out the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on (2 x E14 external Torx) then grab the caliper and rock it back and forth ... with pressure so the pistons retract it will make things a lot easier later
Then pull it out as good as you can, remove the little clip, it should pull straight out real easy.
And the guide stud
You do not need to remove ANY other bolts from the caliper.
Drop the pads out. They fall right out after the guide has been removed.
As suspected .. some wear ... but not too bad.
So now everything in reverse, the pads go in opposite side of the pin first and then fiddle the pin in ... patience is required
Don't forget the zip tie!
I don't have the torque specs for the bolts, just nice-n-tight and some blue Locktite [EDIT: 'WiDu13 stated in a later post that the torque value is 56 Nm, so now we got too! Thanks WiDu 13] ... [EDIT2: Another good tip from WiDu13 ... the guide pin is 10 Nm] The clamp down pressure is not so important on these bolts .. it is the shear that is important on them.
Pump the brake a few times and make sure you have pressure.
Muffler and Saddle Bag back on and good to go ... eat your heart out stealership
I ordered a set of EBC FA749HH pads ... that is the model EBC references for the R18
I took off the saddle bag and muffler on the left side. It can be done without removing the muffler .. just a bit tighter than I like
And yes, if you are wondering, these re not BMW muffler mounts .. I use an aftermarket set that fastens differently ...
Clip the zip-tie near the little clip.
Take out the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on (2 x E14 external Torx) then grab the caliper and rock it back and forth ... with pressure so the pistons retract it will make things a lot easier later
Then pull it out as good as you can, remove the little clip, it should pull straight out real easy.
And the guide stud
You do not need to remove ANY other bolts from the caliper.
Drop the pads out. They fall right out after the guide has been removed.
As suspected .. some wear ... but not too bad.
So now everything in reverse, the pads go in opposite side of the pin first and then fiddle the pin in ... patience is required
Don't forget the zip tie!
I don't have the torque specs for the bolts, just nice-n-tight and some blue Locktite [EDIT: 'WiDu13 stated in a later post that the torque value is 56 Nm, so now we got too! Thanks WiDu 13] ... [EDIT2: Another good tip from WiDu13 ... the guide pin is 10 Nm] The clamp down pressure is not so important on these bolts .. it is the shear that is important on them.
Pump the brake a few times and make sure you have pressure.
Muffler and Saddle Bag back on and good to go ... eat your heart out stealership
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