ALMOST was a DIY on installing battery trickle charger, but stopped when realized bike might not like direct trickle charging (photos in thread)

Keehn

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I was really debating on whether or not to bother posting any of these photos, as I never actually installed my "Battery Tender" direct battery terminal to trickle charger leads. However, given how new our bikes are, and the dearth of photos and really ANY technical information on the interwebs concerning the R18's, I thought that maybe SOMEONE out in the internet might get some use out of my photos.

While flipping through my owners manual like a "Which-way" book during "battery removal", I happened upon BMW's recommendation that direct charging the battery should take place OFF the motorcycle. BMW makes a trickle charger for our R18's that apparently is on-board computer friendly (translates: won't void warranty). While a DIY of me obtaining said BMW charger, then plugging it into one of the power plugs on the bike is hardly a compelling forum read, I did learn a couple things about our bikes that (in my own experience) are different from prior generations.

1. The side panels ARE 100% plastic and flexible. While they are reminiscent of the metal/plastic covers of the r1200c bikes, the tines on these covers are also plastic. The rubber grommets on the frame however, are still rubber grommets. Benefit of side covers being 100% plastic? FAR less chance of them vibrating loose and literally flying off the bike while cruising down the road, as well as being more amenable to plastic repair methods, should any tines break down the road. Downside? Well...they're plastic? Maybe they'll be more likely to break with UV damage over time? I'd say just take care of your bike and you "should" be just fine.

2. When removing the side chrome exhaust pipe covers, particularly the section needed to remove the passenger footrest, you will very likely either break off or unseat the small anti-vibration rubber bushings that the chrome piece squeezes against. I don't really see any way to avoid this unless you know to remove the clamping tension with both your hands while gently pulling the cover piece off. I couldn't fit those photos in with this post, so I'll put the bushings into the very next post down from this one.

Recommendation for the rubber bushings: Either have JB Weld handy (like I did) or know about these rubber bushings ahead of time and order a couple extra from the dealer and just expect to replace one or more when/if you need to remove the chrome side exhaust covers.

Anyways, here they are in order:

Parked_For_BTender_Job.jpg
Parked and ready for the trickle charger install (or, so we thought at this time).


RS_Cover_Off1.jpg
Right-hand cover removed. Note the four rubber grommets that the plastic tines fit into. Also the side panel is surprisingly flexible, so don't feel like you're about to break anything if you need to flex the panel a little. However, common sense must prevail...don't beat on it if you aren't getting it to fit, just start with the top-angled grommet, then feel with your fingers for the bottom two tines and grommet connections, then press inwards with your palm. These panels don't give any sort of "CLICK" noise or feel when installed, so make sure you press firmly but not overly-hard over each tine location to ensure the panel is 100% secure.

I say this because when I went to remove my left-hand panel, my bottom-two tines were hanging loose! :oops: Note this is the first time I've EVER done anything to this bike.

And, if I'm not mistaken, the box contained within the frame is the rear ABS unit (given the brake lines on top 😜). Behind the ABS unit is the NEGATIVE side of the battery by the way.

RS_Cover_Tines.jpg
And a shot of each right-hand side panel tine location. Note how the top-most tine is facing towards the front of the motorcycle? You'll want to install this tine first when reinstalling the entire panel.


LS_Cover_On.jpg
Moving to the left-hand side.


LS_Cover_Off1.jpg
Here's the ODB-II diagnostic plug on the very top in its holding plug. The white box inside with the QR code is the AGM battery, but first I needed to remove the left-side passenger peg and chrome exhaust cover.

Also note the location of the grommets. The bottom two grommets are part of the battery cover itself and this is what was loose when I went to remove my cover.


LS_Cover_Tines.jpg
Again, a repeat shot of the tines, just left-hand side this go-around.


LS_Pass_FootPeg_Removed.jpg
Removal of the left-hand passenger foot peg. None of this is difficult to do, and the only reason I was wearing gloves was to keep MY dirty prints off the shiny chrome! 😆


LS_Battery_Covered1.jpg
My next post down from this will show the exhaust cover, but it does need to be removed in order to take out the bottom foot peg bolt.


LS_Battery_Exposed1.jpg
I then took off the battery cover and at this point realized what BMW was saying in the owners manual about directly charging batteries on the bike...

Part two coming momentarily.

Mike
 

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Part two.

LS_Exhaust_Cover_Rubber_Missing.jpg
Here's the portion of the exhaust cover closest to the engine. Luckily, this rubber bushing just popped out of its hole. I found it on the concrete and put it back in.


LS_Exhaust_Cover_Rubber_Broken.jpg
The same couldn't be said for the rear bushing however. Note how the rear exhaust pipe has two rubber bushings, one on top (what I'm holding) and one on the bottom. I didn't want to stop reassembly all over a 🤬 broken bushing, so I took some JB Weld and tacked it in place where it normally sits. I let it cure overnight.

The next morning, the bushing was stuck onto the rear exhaust pipe. I reinstalled the exhaust cover without incident at that point, but I intend to review the microfiche and see what other hidden gremlins BMW has in the R18's and order some spares for when the next broken bushing attacks.


Manual_Trickle_Charger.jpg
This is the portion of the manual that gave me severe pause and 180'd my rudder on this DIY job.

I do intend to get a BMW charger, but I'm also an electronics hobbyist, and I'm going to hook up my oscilloscope and see if there's any sort of signal sent along the wire that tells the computer that it's a genuine BMW charger. Because at the exorbitant prices BMW charges, I want to see if there's some sort of 555 timer...or, if there's anything at all, and BMW just slapped their roundel on someone else's battery charger and charged a premium.

Anyways, I hope these photos help someone, even if my DIY didn't actually go as planned...

Mike
 
My sales guy actually recommended a direct to battery pigtail lead for the charger as they’ve found the BMW one that is meant to be canbus friendly isn’t working properly on the newer GS models and R18.
 
I've got my fused Optimate(R) battery-charger chord connected directly to the battery terminals, atop other existing cables connecting there - all with a smidge of silicon grease to keep things proper. And I connect the charger's SAE connector directly to that, where I have it protruding out just to the rear of the side-cover. So that I can plug it in to charge/trickle-charge/maintain whenever I please. Both the battery and I are pretty chaffed with this arrangement since around September 2020 already. And for more than seven years on some others. I prefer to charge the battery directly, on the bike, but not 'through' the bike's electrics. My BMW dealer agrees, BTW.

I also install a 100A motorcycle-specific breaker (https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp?mc=1&aid=14905&cid=0&s=100%20a&a=) on the main negative chord on all my rides, but that is another discussion altogether.
 
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I agree that I'd prefer to charge the battery directly, but it falls into the "life is too short" category to me. Not particularly related, my R18 always "feels" like it barely has enough juice to start the bike regardless of charge state. I've never actually had a problem, but starting feels pretty lethargic.
 
This is what REALLY gave me pause...

Manual_Caution.jpg
Page 136 of the R18RT owner's manual, second "ATTENTION" down.

My bike is still under warranty, and, while I'm all for trying new things, I'm not fond of those things potentially voiding my warranty.

Once my warranty is up? Then...we can begin experimenting. I have a hunch that BMW simply doesn't want us direct-charging our batteries because some people might put on large 200AMP chargers and proceed to blow up the bike's electronics. Like most CAUTIONS, they are written for the "least-common denominator" type of people ;).

Mike
 
My sales guy actually recommended a direct to battery pigtail lead for the charger as they’ve found the BMW one that is meant to be canbus friendly isn’t working properly on the newer GS models and R18.
Even despite the warning in the owners manual? Seems the sales guy might want to talk to BMW and make sure his advice isn't going to void your warranty.

In MY own personal situation, I'd prefer to tread lightly during my warranty period so I can break my engine in and make sure I'm covered in case of any manufacturer defect during said period. I don't need BMW nitpicking a warranty claim saying that because I installed a direct to battery trickle charger, they can't fix my timing chain (or something like that, I'm just spitballing).

Mike
 
I was really debating on whether or not to bother posting any of these photos, as I never actually installed my "Battery Tender" direct battery terminal to trickle charger leads. However, given how new our bikes are, and the dearth of photos and really ANY technical information on the interwebs concerning the R18's, I thought that maybe SOMEONE out in the internet might get some use out of my photos.

While flipping through my owners manual like a "Which-way" book during "battery removal", I happened upon BMW's recommendation that direct charging the battery should take place OFF the motorcycle. BMW makes a trickle charger for our R18's that apparently is on-board computer friendly (translates: won't void warranty). While a DIY of me obtaining said BMW charger, then plugging it into one of the power plugs on the bike is hardly a compelling forum read, I did learn a couple things about our bikes that (in my own experience) are different from prior generations.

1. The side panels ARE 100% plastic and flexible. While they are reminiscent of the metal/plastic covers of the r1200c bikes, the tines on these covers are also plastic. The rubber grommets on the frame however, are still rubber grommets. Benefit of side covers being 100% plastic? FAR less chance of them vibrating loose and literally flying off the bike while cruising down the road, as well as being more amenable to plastic repair methods, should any tines break down the road. Downside? Well...they're plastic? Maybe they'll be more likely to break with UV damage over time? I'd say just take care of your bike and you "should" be just fine.

2. When removing the side chrome exhaust pipe covers, particularly the section needed to remove the passenger footrest, you will very likely either break off or unseat the small anti-vibration rubber bushings that the chrome piece squeezes against. I don't really see any way to avoid this unless you know to remove the clamping tension with both your hands while gently pulling the cover piece off. I couldn't fit those photos in with this post, so I'll put the bushings into the very next post down from this one.

Recommendation for the rubber bushings: Either have JB Weld handy (like I did) or know about these rubber bushings ahead of time and order a couple extra from the dealer and just expect to replace one or more when/if you need to remove the chrome side exhaust covers.

Anyways, here they are in order:

View attachment 6199
Parked and ready for the trickle charger install (or, so we thought at this time).


View attachment 6200
Right-hand cover removed. Note the four rubber grommets that the plastic tines fit into. Also the side panel is surprisingly flexible, so don't feel like you're about to break anything if you need to flex the panel a little. However, common sense must prevail...don't beat on it if you aren't getting it to fit, just start with the top-angled grommet, then feel with your fingers for the bottom two tines and grommet connections, then press inwards with your palm. These panels don't give any sort of "CLICK" noise or feel when installed, so make sure you press firmly but not overly-hard over each tine location to ensure the panel is 100% secure.

I say this because when I went to remove my left-hand panel, my bottom-two tines were hanging loose! :oops: Note this is the first time I've EVER done anything to this bike.

And, if I'm not mistaken, the box contained within the frame is the rear ABS unit (given the brake lines on top 😜). Behind the ABS unit is the NEGATIVE side of the battery by the way.

View attachment 6201
And a shot of each right-hand side panel tine location. Note how the top-most tine is facing towards the front of the motorcycle? You'll want to install this tine first when reinstalling the entire panel.


View attachment 6202
Moving to the left-hand side.


View attachment 6206
Here's the ODB-II diagnostic plug on the very top in its holding plug. The white box inside with the QR code is the AGM battery, but first I needed to remove the left-side passenger peg and chrome exhaust cover.

Also note the location of the grommets. The bottom two grommets are part of the battery cover itself and this is what was loose when I went to remove my cover.


View attachment 6203
Again, a repeat shot of the tines, just left-hand side this go-around.


View attachment 6207
Removal of the left-hand passenger foot peg. None of this is difficult to do, and the only reason I was wearing gloves was to keep MY dirty prints off the shiny chrome! 😆


View attachment 6204
My next post down from this will show the exhaust cover, but it does need to be removed in order to take out the bottom foot peg bolt.


View attachment 6205
I then took off the battery cover and at this point realized what BMW was saying in the owners manual about directly charging batteries on the bike...

Part two coming momentarily.

Mike
DIRECT TO BATTERY PIGTAIL on all 27 of my past bikes. BY FAR THE BEST CHARGER IS NOCO (NOCO GENIUS CHARGERS). They have been charging batteries since 1908. They have a model/type for every budget and need. I even forgot to unplug a few times. My NOCO s were drug for several miles several times and I didn't reALIZE IT UNTIL i HIT ROUGH PAVENENT AND THE CHARGER POPPED UP AND HIT ME IN THS HEAD/HELMET. THEY ALL STILL WORK!
 
BMW or Optimate tenders built for CANBUS will plug into the port located near the left cover, my Dealer sells both and in the manual you quoted it refers one to get a proper charger from a dealer and that's what I did and I feel comfortable with their stock choices. That said, you may be reading a little too far into the CAUTION comments, it's caution, not verboten.

I and the others posting here have had many CANBUS BMW motorcycles and they all (for me) to include the R18 have a tender connection attached directly to the battery (I do use the R18 OEM outlet on occasion as well). It is also common to run leads for connecting heated gear, lighting, etc., from the battery as it keeps the CANBUS system from getting confused with various loads that may indicate faults to the system. I appreciate the caution as I am very much a "measure twice and cut once" kind of tinkerer, but I think you would be more than safe if you choose to "DIY" this. YRMV, enjoy the new ride, she's beautiful.

🍻🍻

Edited to add, for the most part I ride a great battery charger and very rarely go more than a couple of weeks without riding even in Winter as long as there is no ice or snow on the road. I do have a "real" battery charger and a couple Optimate Smart tenders, but almost never use them nor have had a battery completely die on me although my 5+ year old one in my 06 RT came very close when I changed it. Ride more, worry less!
 
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I went ahead and spent a ton of pennies on BMW part # 77022470951, this guy:

BMW_Charger.png
I wanted to make sure I got a "microprocessor-controlled" unit :rolleyes: as BMW is boasting this battery tender is. If anyone's interested to read what the specs of this unit is, here's a link to a sales page:

https://www.shopbmwmotorcycle.com/products/bmw-motorcycles-can-bus-battery-charger and no, I didn't pay full MSRP ;), I found a new in box unit for cheaper.

Now, I play the waiting game and look out for the delivery person...

Mike
 
I've been using the BMW battery tender for a few years on my boxers, put it on them once a week or so until 100%, usually takes a few mins to a few hours, sometimes overnight on the older bike. The unit is pretty durable, although i have busted the edge off a few corners (no big deal, just filed the corner smooth and made it rounder), it gets kicked around in the garage some.
 
Even despite the warning in the owners manual? Seems the sales guy might want to talk to BMW and make sure his advice isn't going to void your warranty.

In MY own personal situation, I'd prefer to tread lightly during my warranty period so I can break my engine in and make sure I'm covered in case of any manufacturer defect during said period. I don't need BMW nitpicking a warranty claim saying that because I installed a direct to battery trickle charger, they can't fix my timing chain (or something like that, I'm just spitballing).

Mike
I haven’t checked if there’s a difference between US and UK owners manuals tbh, nor have I bought either a tender or pigtail lead as I’m using the bike regularly enough until autumn/ winter currently. There is also differences in contract law between UK and US especially regarding automotive warranties.

I’ll always take someone’s experience over a sales pitch. He was telling me not to spend the money on the canbus charger (though I still have one that is discounted on my eBay watch list) whereas it would have been in his benefit for me to buy one which says a lot imo. It’s probably not every bike they’ve had an issue with using the onboard socket, but knowing my luck mine would be the one which didn’t work 😂
 
Even despite the warning in the owners manual? Seems the sales guy might want to talk to BMW and make sure his advice isn't going to void your warranty.

In MY own personal situation, I'd prefer to tread lightly during my warranty period so I can break my engine in and make sure I'm covered in case of any manufacturer defect during said period. I don't need BMW nitpicking a warranty claim saying that because I installed a direct to battery trickle charger, they can't fix my timing chain (or something like that, I'm just spitballing).

Mike
I can appreciate being cautious, but a quality tender being connected directly to the battery is bypassing all the CANBUS. I can only speak for myself in that I have had many BMWs with CANBUS since my 2005 (03 or 04 was first year I remember seeing new bikes with it), and every one of them had pigtails hardwired to the battery for a charger/tender, heated gear leads, various power controls for aftermarket lights, etc. When CANBUS first came on line the old tenders including BMW's wouldn't work through the CANBUS as it would automatically shut down after a minute. Optimate and Deltran (that at the time made the BMW branded chargers), quickly offered the "smart" tenders that could get CANBUS to agree "No really means Yes" and the system would accept the current. Long story long, many, many riders simply added a direct connection to avoid any issues and like oil threads, many, many years later the same pros/cons still get armwrestling time. The goal is to safely tend the battery, with or without going through the main wiring harness.

Anyway, everyone should buy what makes makes less worries and riding it is still the best way to keep a battery properly charged.....
 
My sales guy actually recommended a direct to battery pigtail lead for the charger as they’ve found the BMW one that is meant to be canbus friendly isn’t working properly on the newer GS models and R18.
I have an old BMW canbus one that connects to the Powerlet plug. It works fine on my R18. But, you need to connect it with the bike powered on (don’t need engine running), or connect it within about 30 seconds of turning the bike off, so the canbus keeps the circuit open for charging. If you have the bike off for more than 30 seconds and try connecting the canbus charger it won’t actually charge since the system has disabled the plug.

On my other bikes (including BMWs), I use a pigtail and battery tender or optimate chargers as I like their features on battery maintainence. But seeing as how tight the battery is packed on the R18, it was easier to pull out the old BMW canbus charger and use that.
 
I have an old BMW canbus one that connects to the Powerlet plug. It works fine on my R18. But, you need to connect it with the bike powered on (don’t need engine running), or connect it within about 30 seconds of turning the bike off, so the canbus keeps the circuit open for charging. If you have the bike off for more than 30 seconds and try connecting the canbus charger it won’t actually charge since the system has disabled the plug.

On my other bikes (including BMWs), I use a pigtail and battery tender or optimate chargers as I like their features on battery maintainence. But seeing as how tight the battery is packed on the R18, it was easier to pull out the old BMW canbus charger and use that.
Thanks for that, I can’t remember the exact wording of the reasoning for his advice but the system not being “awake” does ring a bell.
 
A genuine canbus charger will 'wake up' the plug & communicate with the bike, then charge it up. No need to catch it within 30 seconds :)

I charge all the bikes each weekend (just in case) and never switch them on first to prime the canbus. After being bitten by a poor battery once or twice, now I look after them & maintain properly.

I had the noco genius charger for a while for some other bikes, then switched to the BMW one pictured in this thread (wall mounted in the garage). It's much the same as any other intelligent canbus charger, except it has the best display of any that I have seen. Actually tells you (in words) what it is doing, state of the battery etc.

Works great on all the BMWs, and a couple of hondas (the hyondas were not canbus) - fine for everything.

Very recommended, and actually not expensive at all - virtually the exact same price as a Noco or similar.
 
I got the official BMW charger in a week ago but got busy with other things, as life usually goes. But I wanted to quickly put the pictures up of my disassembly of the charger itself for everyone to see.

BMW_Charger_Disassembled_Boxed.jpg
The charger, as it came brand new. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it's even lithium compatible, I'll have to test that.

BMW_Charger_Disassembled_Riveted.jpg
Oh NO, BMW couldn't have simply put in phillips screws, they had to RIVET the 🤬 shut! No worries, as I just drilled out the rivets.

BMW_Charger_Disassembled_Front_Of_Board2.jpg
You can see where there's a slight bit of damage to the circuit board where the rivets went. Luckily, these aren't grounds or anything important so no functional damage was done.

BMW_Charger_Disassembled_Front_Of_Board.jpg
Here's a closeup of the front circuit board. Note the "Microchip PIC18F46K20-1/PT". That's the heart of the system, and according to its spec sheet, it's a SOC (system on a chip) with 32K of flash ROM and is completely self-contained. This single chip is what controls the entire charger, the rest of the components shown are just various resistors, capacitors LEDs and ancillary components necessary to the functionality of the system.

I DID have to unsolder five leads (far-right of the board in the above image) to remove the board from the back panel of the charger.

BMW_Charger_Disassembled_Expoxied_Transformer.jpg
And, when I unsoldered the leads, this is what I was met with. BMW epoxied the transformer/inverter extremely well. There was no way I was going to hack into that without destroying the components within, so I left it alone. What's important to note is this is where the 120v AC wall current is converted to 12-14v DC current.

ac-to-dc-converter.jpg
Imagine something like this behind the epoxy. BMW has a transformer (the heaviest object) that takes the high AC current and lowers it down into low AC current, which is then filtered through a full-bridge rectifier, or the four diodes you see here. Because AC current is a sine-wave pattern, and DC is simply + high and - low, the rectifier circuit filters the sine wave current so it outputs + high and - low...aka, DC power! A capacitor is placed in line to help smoothen out the millisecond bumps to clean up and create a stable + and - current.

BMW_Charger_Disassembled_Back_Of_Board.jpg
Lastly, here's the back of the board for posterity (pun intended 😜).

I have the charger currently zip-tied together and charging Alcina. When I get a free moment, I'm going to hook up my oscilloscope to look at the waveform of what occurs when the BMW charger "wakes up" the bike when it begins charging. Then I'm going to do the same with a Deltran charger and see if it can "wake up" the bike through the powerplug like the BMW charger.

Mike
 
I got the feeling that there was nothing inside my cheaper battery chargers (from the 1980s) other than a resistor or 2 & an LED if I was lucky.

Looks like actual electronics managing the charge cycle... thanks for sharing.
 
Just for newbies ( like me ) I have just bought the Optimate4 BMW CanBus version (£69) and it arrived in the post yesterday. Read the instructions, plugged it into the CanBus socket and switched on. Bike was off BTW. It ‘woke’ the bike up itself, went through its cycles and after a couple of hours settled on two green lights 👍👍. All good. I couldn’t get the BMW trickle charger for that price and availability seemed more difficult so went with the Optimate4 after taking advice on the forum. Very pleased with it. Happy R18 too. 67F2CDD9-4DE5-42B6-A071-ACE7C6413653.jpeg
 
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