Essential R18 Aftermarket Solutions

estoma

Well-known member
I have not checked whether this subject has featured previously, so please accept my apologies if I am waffling away, regurgitating known complaints;
  1. Slip-on exhausts resembling those on the R18 Concept (of course)
    1. HATTECH Auspuff - R18 Shorty - Schalldämpfer mit Anbauteilen für die, 1.198,00 €
    2. in Bike (remususa.com)
    3. BMW R18 Exhaust - Dr. Jekill & Mr. Hyde - Dr. Jekill & Mr. Hyde | Electronically adjustable exhaust for motorcycles | Best sound | Street legal (jekillandhyde.com)
  2. Two different intake manifold options. One like the R18 Concept, with throttle bodies at the rear but with a proper plenum. The other with shortened tracts and the throttle bodies alongside the engine with pod air-cleaners, obviously including retro throttle body covers
  3. A better-looking Oil Cooler Cover, and preferably not Tupperware
  4. Analogue (display but digital operation) oil temperature and oil pressure gauges that can be mounted wherever one wishes
  5. Aesthetically complementing Indicators. The OEM ones look like they came straight out of Star Wars
  6. 21" x 3.5" laced front wheel, sealed proper tubeless
    1. WalzWerk® BIG-WHEEL KIT FOR BMW R18 - WalzWerk® Motorcycles (walzwerk-motorcycles.de)
  7. 21" front fender, steel or aluminium, same size and style as the OEM 19" front fender
  8. 16" x 6.0" laced rear wheel, sealed proper tubeless
  9. Hard bags with matching bagger rear fender
    1. Sidecase Set Chopper 33l Craftride K3 incl Mounting Set best deal (motea.com)
  10. Two different display options. 1) Digital multifunction display with different (also proper retro) themes and improved functionality - same size and shape as OEM. 2) Same as option 1 but built into an elongated headlight
  11. Rear air suspension. Hello, Arnott®!
  12. Rear light options
  13. TMPS, similar to FOBO® but with senders fitted inside the rims
    1. FOBO (my-fobo.com) - this might well need to be it for the foreseeable future.
    2. Accu-Pressure Motorcycle Tire Pressure Safety Caps (32-40 psi) – Sierra BMW Motorcycle (shopbmwmotorcycle.com)
  14. Centre Stand
  15. Front and rear paddock stands
 
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The list reminds me of when photos of the production version of the R18 first came out. I looked at it, then at the prototype, then back, and I thought: it’s in there someplace. Just needs a few tweaks...

what I didn’t know then and do know now, is that it was engineered with parts and pieces doing double or even triple duty. Taking something out, or even modifying something slightly, often has a cascading effect. New parts need to be made just to take things OUT of the oem R18. It’s admirable and annoying at the same time.

hopefully aftermarket venders will provide
 
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I have not checked whether this subject has featured previously, so please accept my apologies if I am waffling away, regurgitating known complaints;
  1. Slip-on exhausts resembling those on the R18 Concept (of course)
    1. HATTECH Auspuff - R18 Shorty - Schalldämpfer mit Anbauteilen für die, 1.198,00 €
  2. Two different intake manifold options. One like the R18 Concept, with throttle bodies at the rear but with a proper plenum. The other with shortened tracts and the throttle bodies alongside the engine with pod air-cleaners, obviously including retro throttle body covers
  3. A better-looking Oil Cooler Cover, and preferably not Tupperware
  4. Analogue (display but digital operation) oil temperature and oil pressure gauges that can be mounted wherever one wishes
  5. Aesthetically complementing Indicators. The OEM ones look like they came straight out of Star Wars
  6. 21" x 3.5" laced front wheel, sealed proper tubeless
    1. WalzWerk® BIG-WHEEL KIT FOR BMW R18 - WalzWerk® Motorcycles (walzwerk-motorcycles.de)
  7. 21" front fender, steel or aluminium, same size and style as the OEM 19" front fender
  8. 16" x 6.0" laced rear wheel, sealed proper tubeless
  9. Hard bags with matching bagger rear fender
  10. Two different display options. 1) Digital multifunction display with different (also proper retro) themes and improved functionality - same size and shape as OEM. 2) Same as option 1 but built into an elongated headlight
  11. Rear air suspension. Hello, Arnott®!
  12. Rear light options
  13. TMPS, similar to FOBO® but with senders fitted inside the rims
  14. Centre Stand
  15. Front and rear paddock stands
Post updated.
 
The FOBO Bike 2 senders weigh 7.6 grams each, inclusive of the battery. That is pretty light. Their previous generation weighed 12 grams, battery included. The app can be had in either Android or iOS and monitors wheel pressures 24/7, whether one is riding or not. I have used TireGard, FOBO and Garmin TPMS in the past, and FOBO beats the competition hands-down IMHO.

FOBO (my-fobo.com)

I will be using it, and I have just received my OUTEX Tubeless Kit.
 
The FOBO Bike 2 senders weigh 7.6 grams each, inclusive of the battery. That is pretty light. Their previous generation weighed 12 grams, battery included. The app can be had in either Android or iOS and monitors wheel pressures 24/7, whether one is riding or not. I have used TireGard, FOBO and Garmin TPMS in the past, and FOBO beats the competition hands-down IMHO.

FOBO (my-fobo.com)

I will be using it, and I have just received my OUTEX Tubeless Kit.
Post photos please. This seems like a daunting project for those of us who haven't done it, but a fantastic upgrade nonetheless.
 
Post photos please. This seems like a daunting project for those of us who haven't done it, but a fantastic upgrade nonetheless.
I'll do that, but it might be a while still. I still need to find a satisfactory manner to lift the bike and keep it suspended without wheels. I have not seen a paddock stand for the rear end yet, and you cannot use a head-stand in front given how BMW routed the brake hoses there.

I used a lift-jack in front (under the engine) when I installed a new front-wheel after hitting a pothole. I could tie the bike down on that and then use a scissor-jack under the swingarm, just to the front of the rear wheel - I need to see how that would work. I prefer to do both wheels simultaneously; remove the wheels, remove the tires, clean the rims (critical step), install the OUTEX (several steps), remount the tires, balance the wheels, remount the wheels.

You chaps in the US can ship your wheels to Woody's Wheel Works (Outex Tubeless Kit - Woody's Wheel Works - WoodysWheelWorks) for them to install the OUTEX kits. They will probably include a guarantee as well.
 
The above post got me thinking about HOW we can pick up the R18 for stuff like wheel removal, etc.
I have a J&S Jack that I use to lift my Indian Roadmaster. Would it work for the R18?
The answer is not easily. Like most jacks that pick up the entire motorcycle, it normally would lift the bike by contacting the horizontal lower frame sections. But the lower loops of the chassis of R18 are higher than the exhaust system and a bunch of other "stuff" that's closer to the road and those parts are not something to rest 750 pounds on.

But waitaminnit! My Roadmaster doesn't have lower frame sections at all and the J&S Jack works great. That's because J&S makes a special pair of "adapters" that go onto the horizontal bars of the jack and those adapters contact four tough parts of the chassis where they terminate at the front & back engine mounts.

J&S Jack.jpg

The R18 does have a couple of hard, welded-on chassis parts behind the engine that supports the mufflers. And the crankcase is a tough, flat bottomed item. Maybe an adapter can be fabricated for the jack that will safely lift the R18.

I've sent an email to J&S already asking about them making an adapter for the R18. Standby....

 
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I'll do that, but it might be a while still. I still need to find a satisfactory manner to lift the bike and keep it suspended without wheels. I have not seen a paddock stand for the rear end yet, and you cannot use a head-stand in front given how BMW routed the brake hoses there.

I used a lift-jack in front (under the engine) when I installed a new front-wheel after hitting a pothole. I could tie the bike down on that and then use a scissor-jack under the swingarm, just to the front of the rear wheel - I need to see how that would work. I prefer to do both wheels simultaneously; remove the wheels, remove the tires, clean the rims (critical step), install the OUTEX (several steps), remount the tires, balance the wheels, remount the wheels.

You chaps in the US can ship your wheels to Woody's Wheel Works (Outex Tubeless Kit - Woody's Wheel Works - WoodysWheelWorks) for them to install the OUTEX kits. They will probably include a guarantee as well.
I use a flat scissors jack with the saddles positioned under the rear frame attachments both sides just ahead of the rear wheel, with another flat scissors jack with a wood spacer (no saddles) between it and the engine. I lift the rear first (until the tire is about 5" above the platform) and then lift the front until the bike starts to level out. This safely gets both wheels up. Keep the weight biased towards the rear because the rear saddles provide a wider stance.
 
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