Kellermann Blinkers/Break Lights

[marcelo.goncalves]

Hello All

Glad to be part of this forum!

I recently installed Kelermann Bullet 1000 DF in my bike. Blinkers work fine, however break and position light flash when starting the bike, but then go out. My guess is something to do with the bike sensors since there is also a warning message on the dash. I’m in contact with the folks at Kellermann (very helpful BTW) and they are reviewing the issue

Anyone with a similar problem? Any suggestions?

Thanks
Marcelo

 

[Black Dog]

Curiosity question; Did you have to modify the bikes wiring, tail light plug, to install those lights.
I positioned the stock lights and machined a mount to utilize the stock wiring plugs,

 

[Black Dog]

Upon closer inspection of the photos I see the various extra wires dangling.
My biggesst prolem was the license plate light plug,
I wound up dissecting the license plate light to extract the stock plug.
Not yet attached in the photo.
The range of the key fob arena is severely restricted in this configuration and was moved from being attached directly to the aluminum plate.

 

[marcelo.goncalves]

Curiosity question; Did you have to modify the bikes wiring, tail light plug, to install those lights.
I positioned the stock lights and machined a mount to utilize the stock wiring plugs,View attachment 1036

Since I’m using the Kellermann blinkers/ rear light I had to cut the original connectors and use them To connect to the bike’s harness. My issue is that apparently the stock break/ position lights are a different kind of LED compared to the Kellermann’s. So the bike sensors do not recognize the lamps and don’t light them. Funny is that the blinker function works just fine.

Curiosity question; Did you have to modify the bikes wiring, tail light plug, to install those lights.
I positioned the stock lights and machined a mount to utilize the stock wiring plugs,View attachment 1036

 

[Black Dog]

May require the use of a separate trigger, something like a PDM 60.
If the Canbus system sees too large a current draw it shuts down that circuit.
A GS 911 would show, and clear, the fault but will not fix your problem.

 

[marcelo.goncalves]

May require the use of a separate trigger, something like a PDM 60.
If the Canbus system sees too large a current draw it shuts down that circuit.
A GS 911 would show, and clear, the fault but will not fix your problem.

Thanks Black Dog! I'm not familiar with this but I will definitely check it...

 

[theMucker]

Often the CAN BUS system "sees" alternative devices and makes a fault code because the impedance is different from the OEM part. Sometimes you can "fool" the system into thinking everything is cool by restoring the impedance value. Measure the impedance of the OEM and new devices. You may be able to add a resistor to the circuit so that the final value matches the original. I did it on my Indian, when I swapped the original horn for a pair of louder horns, operated by a relay. The bike didn't like the reduced load that the relay required, so I added a resistor in parallel to the relay.

 

[marcelo.goncalves]

Thanks theMucker!!! I have a limited knowledge using a multimeter... would you tell me which function use and how to read it? I think this is the issue

 

[theMucker]

Thanks theMucker!!! I have a limited knowledge using a multimeter... would you tell me which function use and how to read it? I think this is the issue

You'd use the Ohm meter to measure across the positive & negative connections of the OEM and new parts. If the new parts have a higher impedance then you need to add the resister in parallel to the light's ground & power and if it's lower than the OEM part, you would install it in series to the positive side. If you're not comfortable with electrical modifications on the bike, you might want to bring it to a good tech at a shop.

 

[marcelo.goncalves]

You'd use the Ohm meter to measure across the positive & negative connections of the OEM and new parts. If the new parts have a higher impedance then you need to add the resister in parallel to the light's ground & power and if it's lower than the OEM part, you would install it in series to the positive side. If you're not comfortable with electrical modifications on the bike, you might want to bring it to a good tech at a shop.

Thanks a lot. Will check this

 

[estoma]

Upon closer inspection of the photos I see the various extra wires dangling.
My biggesst prolem was the license plate light plug,
I wound up dissecting the license plate light to extract the stock plug.
Not yet attached in the photo.
The range of the key fob arena is severely restricted in this configuration and was moved from being attached directly to the aluminum plate.View attachment 1037

Each to their own, but this could certainly qualify as the fugliest R18 on the planet. Where to start; the exhaust, that seat-slash-rear-wheel-hugger, and the scooter-shield! Sacrilege.! BMW would probably pry the badges off if they had to see it parked somewhere.

A colour change, though, and it could be the start of a half-decent two-wheel rat rod. Beauty, as always, is in the eye of the beholder.

 

[Black Dog]

!

 

[Black Dog]

Thanks a lot. Will check this

Thanks a lot. Will check this

The PDM 60 9s a simple delay device to power up to 6 different circuits using the canbus signal as trigger, programmable and straight forward to use. I have been using it on my R1200RT and on the K1600B.

 

[estoma]

The PDM 60 9s a simple delay device to power up to 6 different circuits using the canbus signal as trigger, programmable and straight forward to use. I have been using it on my R1200RT and on the K1600B.

The PDM-60 is OK but pretty generic. Hex® ezCAN is hands-down the best bespoke can-bus solution for BMW, Harley and KTM. They do not offer anything specific for the R18 yet, but they are accommodating, and one of their many configurations might work; Select Your Bike- BMW – HEX ezCAN.

 

[Black Dog]

There is more than one way to skin a baboon.

 

[theMucker]

The PDM-60 and Hex ezCAN both look very interesting for wiring in non-OEM components. I'll be watching to see if ezCAN comes out with an R18 specific device. And I'm going to keep them in mind for future projects as they may come up. But the R18 may pose a bit of a challenge for either in that the darned bike has so little room under the seat or side covers to fit an additional "gizmo". I'm not saying it can't be done, but it IS tight down there just as the bike comes from BMW.

 

[Black Dog]

The PDM-60 is OK but pretty generic. Hex® ezCAN is hands-down the best bespoke can-bus solution for BMW, Harley and KTM. They do not offer anything specific for the R18 yet, but they are accommodating, and one of their many configurations might work; Select Your Bike- BMW – HEX ezCAN.

 

[estoma]

The Denali® CANsmart is pretty sharp too; DENALI CANsmart™ - The Best CANbus Controller On The Market – DENALI Electronics

And their LED Lights rank among the best - wide range too. I fit their mini smart-bomb horn to most of my rides. It is quite loud and only pulls 5 amps, thus not requiring a horn relay.

 

[Slotheadslim]

Hi Marcelo,

Did you get your electrical problems corrected with the Kelermann Bullet 1000 DF install? What did you have to do? Please let let us know.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[marcelo.goncalves]

Hello Tom. Yes I have. Actually the problem was related to the wire connections. Apparently the canbus system is very sensitive to how the cables connect to each other (I was using simple crimped connectors in the original harness). The solution was to acquire a new complete harness from the canbus unit to the taillights (got it from Wunderlish). It worked just fine with no error messages. Hope it helps