RSD Style Engine Covers

[DRACKO]

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased these Cylinder Head Protectors and the Front Engine Housing Trim Cover (RSD style) from AliExpress. To be honest, I am quite impressed. The CNC Machined finish and overall build quality are surprisingly good considering the price point.
I have seen many members here running both the original Roland Sands versions and these replicas. However, I have a concern before I bolt them on: Metal to metal contact.
The R18 vibrates quite a bit, and I am worried that these aluminum covers might scratch the chrome on the cylinders due to friction.
For those of you who have installed these (original or replica):
• Did you mount them directly onto the cylinder heads?
• Have you noticed any damage to the chrome after some miles?
• I am considering using High Temp Food Grade Silicone Washers (rated for 200C to 250C / 400F to 480F) to create a small gap and absorb vibration. Do you think 1mm or 2mm thickness would be better?
Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

 

[HUNTS]

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased these Cylinder Head Protectors and the Front Engine Housing Trim Cover (RSD style) from AliExpress. To be honest, I am quite impressed. The CNC Machined finish and overall build quality are surprisingly good considering the price point.
I have seen many members here running both the original Roland Sands versions and these replicas. However, I have a concern before I bolt them on: Metal to metal contact.
The R18 vibrates quite a bit, and I am worried that these aluminum covers might scratch the chrome on the cylinders due to friction.
For those of you who have installed these (original or replica):
• Did you mount them directly onto the cylinder heads?
• Have you noticed any damage to the chrome after some miles?
• I am considering using High Temp Food Grade Silicone Washers (rated for 200C to 250C / 400F to 480F) to create a small gap and absorb vibration. Do you think 1mm or 2mm thickness would be better?
Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

I have the black version from Aliexpress and I just bolted them on. I don’t intend to ever take them off to see if it was a good or bad decision… but powder coating can fix that if I ever did.
The black badges on the cylinder guards are also from Ae.

 

[Rufus]

I’ve literally just installed my front strip cover and had the same thoughts/concerns as you. I decided to use some small (10mm) round felt pads that I dotted around the perimeter on the underside to create a soft base. When I trial fitted it that seemed to do the job nicely so went ahead and buttoned it up. I did note the mounting bolts were not very tight when I took them out (aluminium so easy to strip threads) so used a drop of blue thread lock when I put them back and fingers crossed won’t need to go there again.

 

[Mac]

My thoughts having experimented for many years on other bikes and cars, with this issue of a trim piece I came to one conclusion, it is a permanent addition! Whatever you try to do will not stop marking of the original piece. Paint film in some suitable cases, will delay marking but is not a total fix. Washers and pads to keep the trim raised will let bigger bits of grit sit between the two and the heat differential where they expand and contract differently, or vibrate as a result of the pads, made the wear marks worse. I was always amazed at how grit slightly larger than the gap becomes stuck in the gap and act as a grinding paste and fine grit sits under the pads or rubber protection. In the end it was just a case of do I want this peace on the bike permanently, if so I make sure it is a good tight fit and accept the inevitable.

I therefore fitted the front engine trim on the R18 as a sacrificial trim. In a few hundred miles the engine case was getting hit in a line behind the front wheel. Compared to the whole engine front cover the trim is easy to remove and refinish, or treat in situ, to hide the odd chip. I had OEM engine protection trim on my R1250rt, that had rubber feet to keep the stainless protection off the rocker covers. The wear from the grit in between the rubber pads and the rocker covers virtually wore the paint off so for the R18 I have kept off the rocker trim. I also often found bits of tarmac stuck in the larger gap.

If I like it as a permanent piece I would say fit it, if I think maybe just temporary then I assume damage below.

 

[DRACKO]

Thanks a lot for the help, everyone!
I’m going to keep the cylinder projectors fixed and won't mess with them. I also didn't know the screws were aluminum, so thanks for that info! I won’t over-tighten them now, I'll just do it enough and use some blue Loctite. I'm just waiting for the 45mm BMW emblems that @HUNTS recommended to put everything together.
Thanks again for being so cool and for all the info!

 

[KAus]

I got the same cylinder head trim, from Ae too. Like Dracko, I was pretty impressed with the product. My 2021 TC has chrome cylinder head covers and came with RSD trim. I was a bit uneasy about some knowledgable low life just unscrewing the bolts and walking off with a small fortune of RSD hardware. Went the Ae route and swapped the trim over. Didn't put any padding in between - I figure padding will just let in more grit - as per Mac above, actually - and I'll just have to wear any wear marks (its not like you'll be able to see it as it'll be covered by the trim).

 

[HUNTS]

Thanks a lot for the help, everyone!
I’m going to keep the cylinder projectors fixed and won't mess with them. I also didn't know the screws were aluminum, so thanks for that info! I won’t over-tighten them now, I'll just do it enough and use some blue Loctite. I'm just waiting for the 45mm BMW emblems that @HUNTS recommended to put everything together.
Thanks again for being so cool and for all the info!

Regards the emblems; fit them to the cylinder guards before putting the guards on your bike. I did it the other way round and because of the angle of the bike on the side stand….. yeah, so I ordered 4 more, just in case. They went on perfectly the 2nd time, one went on my helmet (zoom in, front top of helmet) and the other on the battery cover.

 

[DRACKO]

Hey @HUNTS That subdued black logo on the helmet looks very cool! I think we have the same Halcyon MK 49 goggles? Those goggles look really vintage and cool! Thanks for telling me about the emblems. I’ll do them in the order you said.

 

[Rufus]

My thoughts having experimented for many years on other bikes and cars, with this issue of a trim piece I came to one conclusion, it is a permanent addition! Whatever you try to do will not stop marking of the original piece. Paint film in some suitable cases, will delay marking but is not a total fix. Washers and pads to keep the trim raised will let bigger bits of grit sit between the two and the heat differential where they expand and contract differently, or vibrate as a result of the pads, made the wear marks worse. I was always amazed at how grit slightly larger than the gap becomes stuck in the gap and act as a grinding paste and fine grit sits under the pads or rubber protection. In the end it was just a case of do I want this peace on the bike permanently, if so I make sure it is a good tight fit and accept the inevitable.

I therefore fitted the front engine trim on the R18 as a sacrificial trim. In a few hundred miles the engine case was getting hit in a line behind the front wheel. Compared to the whole engine front cover the trim is easy to remove and refinish, or treat in situ, to hide the odd chip. I had OEM engine protection trim on my R1250rt, that had rubber feet to keep the stainless protection off the rocker covers. The wear from the grit in between the rubber pads and the rocker covers virtually wore the paint off so for the R18 I have kept off the rocker trim. I also often found bits of tarmac stuck in the larger gap.

If I like it as a permanent piece I would say fit it, if I think maybe just temporary then I assume damage below.

I tend to agree with all that, the front engine plate is going to get whacked by road debris no matter what we do, the only solution is to replace the mudguard for a longer one (a la TC or B for example). I was 50/50 whether to bother tbh but I’ve installed it now so will just see how it goes. It wouldn’t be so bad were it not for the absolute shit show our UK roads are in.

 

[Mac]

I tend to agree with all that, the front engine plate is going to get whacked by road debris no matter what we do, the only solution is to replace the mudguard for a longer one (a la TC or B for example). I was 50/50 whether to bother tbh but I’ve installed it now so will just see how it goes. It wouldn’t be so bad were it not for the absolute shit show our UK roads are in.

I have just seen that Pyramid have now launched a fender extender for the R18. I might have a look at that as it will not be as obvious as changing the full mudguard.
Last Saturday my misses said why do you keep wobbling as you are going around bends? I said I am having to take action to avoid the pot holes that would see you sat on your butt on the tarmac if I hit them. I am finding I am watching the road for holes all the time now as opposed to what we should be doing. As you say is a nightmare the state of the roads.

 

[DRACKO]

That fender extender @Mac mentioned is definitely worth checking out to see how it looks!

 

[HUNTS]

That fender extender @Mac mentioned is definitely worth checking out to see how it looks!

BMW changed the shape of the front and rear fenders for the ‘25 model. I may have to shop around if considering this.