Excessive vibration

cegamo74

cegamo74

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Hello everyone, I really need your help here,
I purchased my 22 r18b last year and I loved it, I installed a back rest from roadstyler.com my wife and I always ride together (she as a passenger) we put 3k miles last season.
This season I started the bike after been storage for 4 months and it start right up.
We went for our first ride of the season and we noticed a sharp vibration that started at 2500 rpm and its worse at 2900 rpm on the seat, footrest, handlebars and passenger backrest to a point that my wife told me to stop the bike, she got a burnt mark on the side of the back from the friction of the backrest.
Took the bike to the dealer and they told me that is possible that the additive I used for the winter storage is the reason and I need to used and put fresh fuel, I refill the tank several times by now but the vibration still there.
My wife don't want to ride with me anymore and I used the bike back roads only cuz can't use the highway, can't exceed more than 60mph and the speedometer is of by 5mph.
Dealer said that everything looks good and is the character of the bike, but it seems like the bike is extremely angry.
I need your help, is this happening to any of you and any tips to resolve the issue.
I changed all the fluids again but no change, also the other thing I noticed that now it cranks but no start, have to stop and crank again and then starts right up, I also been advised to use rain mode but makes no changes.
Your advise will be greatly appreciated.
 
Typically if a vehicle is running well when stored and then exhibits problems such as you described or in general operating issues there is a problem with deteriorated/contaminated fuel, an electrical issue be it a weak battery, dirty connections or damage caused by mice, etc.

I'm not sure what the shop checked to determine "everything looks good", so perhaps you could elaborate on what they actually did to make that proclamation?

It shouldn't take more than a tank or two of fresh petrol to eliminate fuel as an issue and if they're used don't overdo fuel additives as they can cause their own issues if too much of good thing becomes present.

The R-18 is not counterbalanced and that contributes to it's very visceral feedback as the huge internals do their magic. Consider this for what it's worth, but in reading many posts here I think all too many riders do not use the entire RPM range this lovely engine is very happy to operate in and was designed to do so. Your engine is getting well broken in and will continue to get better over several thousands more miles and you should "stretch her legs" regularly if not already doing so. I find there are several really sweet RPM ranges and a couple of rough areas as well and you may be spending time in a "rough" spot where simply changing up or down a gear may help put her back in a happier zone. I am getting too wordy, but I think the gist is clear enough and it's easy to play with the RPM range. I can try and find vibrations similar to what you describe, but I guess I have adjusted to them and don't find myself spending any time there to where it's a noticeable issue. I personally find "rain" mode to be dangerously "detuned" from "rock" mode that I normally use as the delay in throttle is so different that it seriously throws my timing off in tight maneuvers and I prefer "road" when I am riding in a rain storm. Regardless, I don't believe any mode creates different mechanical feedback at any specific RPM, just how it gets there.

Anyway, I'd play with it some more and carefully record the specifics and if the issue remains unacceptable after this tank I'd go back to the dealer with the details in hand. It's under warranty and request they dig in a bit more as the pre-post storage changes seem considerable. I would even do an early "6,000" service. You won't necessarily need plugs or an air filter, but it's easy to inspect them and know the valves are set, etc., and then everything necessary for proper running will have been eliminated as a possible factor.

Good luck.
 
BobW said:
Typically if a vehicle is running well when stored and then exhibits problems such as you described or in general operating issues there is a problem with deteriorated/contaminated fuel, an electrical issue be it a weak battery, dirty connections or damage caused by mice, etc.

I'm not sure what the shop checked to determine "everything looks good", so perhaps you could elaborate on what they actually did to make that proclamation?

It shouldn't take more than a tank or two of fresh petrol to eliminate fuel as an issue and if they're used don't overdo fuel additives as they can cause their own issues if too much of good thing becomes present.

The R-18 is not counterbalanced and that contributes to it's very visceral feedback as the huge internals do their magic. Consider this for what it's worth, but in reading many posts here I think all too many riders do not use the entire RPM range this lovely engine is very happy to operate in and was designed to do so. Your engine is getting well broken in and will continue to get better over several thousands more miles and you should "stretch her legs" regularly if not already doing so. I find there are several really sweet RPM ranges and a couple of rough areas as well and you may be spending time in a "rough" spot where simply changing up or down a gear may help put her back in a happier zone. I am getting too wordy, but I think the gist is clear enough and it's easy to play with the RPM range. I can try and find vibrations similar to what you describe, but I guess I have adjusted to them and don't find myself spending any time there to where it's a noticeable issue. I personally find "rain" mode to be dangerously "detuned" from "rock" mode that I normally use as the delay in throttle is so different that it seriously throws my timing off in tight maneuvers and I prefer "road" when I am riding in a rain storm. Regardless, I don't believe any mode creates different mechanical feedback at any specific RPM, just how it gets there.

Anyway, I'd play with it some more and carefully record the specifics and if the issue remains unacceptable after this tank I'd go back to the dealer with the details in hand. It's under warranty and request they dig in a bit more as the pre-post storage changes seem considerable. I would even do an early "6,000" service. You won't necessarily need plugs or an air filter, but it's easy to inspect them and know the valves are set, etc., and then everything necessary for proper running will have been eliminated as a possible factor.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the input, I'll definitely do that
 
Your bike is fairly new and this should not happen however, you mentioned that you sort of winterised it/bike was on storage. Since you have changed the fluids etc, including the gas, have you also checked the spark plugs and connectors? This happened to me once on my boat (V6) and the issue was one spark plug that went bad and the engine was not balanced at all as one piston was not working and of course, it was worse under load.
Not to say this is the issue but check the spark plus, connectors and air filter if you can.
Hope you sort it out.
 
No worries at all. I hope you ordered these because that was your next step as opposed to me mentioning spark plugs and filters LOL.

Spark plugs can last for thousands of miles without issues and air filters will be the same if the environment where you ride is not too polluted. Hopefully the issue will go away after you have replaced these components. Have a good inspection at any vacuum hoses etc. Unlikely they will be damaged but a connection may be slightly loose and allowing air in. Check as well the spark plugs leads and boots to ensure you have a proper connection once the plugs are in.
Keep us posted 👍
 
Is your bike under warranty? If it is I would argue the toss and state the vibrations you are experiencing are not normal and they should do it for free or get a compromise somewhere. $700.00 is snot pocket change. I really hope you get this sorted
 
Your dealer is crazy with that quote. You are doing the air filter and plugs and that has you right at the valves with very little extra time. The valve adjustment on the R18 is a locknut and screw adjuster so it takes a matter of seconds to adjust a valve if needed. For that kind of money I strongly suggest you grab some feeler gauges and do it yourself. For reference, my 6,000 service in Asheville was $4XX.00 to include getting all the valves set as close as reasonably possible to each other rather just "go-no go" along with engine oil, filter and final drive refreshed. That was a year+ ago and prices have gone up, but not that much. A more current tab was just over a month ago I had a WA dealer do an annual as I has stored my bike on the West Coast over the Winter. I again paid $4XX.00 and this covered the annual service and I had them add a brake flush that was approximately $130.00 of the bill total. Your dealer is quoting almost $300.00 additional labor for just a valve check? If you don't care to check them yourself and have no other dealer options I would look for a decent indy shop or see if any other BMW groups in your area may have a suggestion. Also many of the regional clubs do "service" days where knowledgeable folks help each other working on the bikes. Final thought, give a good inspection of the back rest and make sure nothing has come loose or a support cracked, etc.

Good luck!
 
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