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R18 TC won't turn on

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zbjk16

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r18 TC
Just bought a new R18 TC that is one week old. Rode it last Saturday for an hour and stopped to eat. Came back outside to start the bike and it started but then turned itself off. After this the bike would not come back on with the power button doing nothing. The day before I got a few weird error messages while riding saying the remote key was not in range and also that the adjustable strut was having an error. Both of these occurred at the same time. Due to this I thought maybe if I reset the system it would start so I disconnected the battery. The bike started back up but then died again with the TFT screen flashing and saying remote key not in range. I bought a new battery for the key at a CVS next door but this did not fix the problem. I disconnected the battery a few more times and same thing, bike would start for a few seconds and then just die. Finally had to call bmw to get it towed and it should be at the dealer today. Has anyone had any issues with their R18 doing this or have any thoughts to what it would be. I had an r18 classic last year and never had any issues with this and also have a 1250 gsa with no key fob issues either. Have had several bmw bikes over the years with no previous issues on a brand new bike so it is kind of disappointing. Bike has about 400 miles on it. Thanks for any thoughts you all have.
 
Just bought a new R18 TC that is one week old. Rode it last Saturday for an hour and stopped to eat. Came back outside to start the bike and it started but then turned itself off. After this the bike would not come back on with the power button doing nothing. The day before I got a few weird error messages while riding saying the remote key was not in range and also that the adjustable strut was having an error. Both of these occurred at the same time. Due to this I thought maybe if I reset the system it would start so I disconnected the battery. The bike started back up but then died again with the TFT screen flashing and saying remote key not in range. I bought a new battery for the key at a CVS next door but this did not fix the problem. I disconnected the battery a few more times and same thing, bike would start for a few seconds and then just die. Finally had to call bmw to get it towed and it should be at the dealer today. Has anyone had any issues with their R18 doing this or have any thoughts to what it would be. I had an r18 classic last year and never had any issues with this and also have a 1250 gsa with no key fob issues either. Have had several bmw bikes over the years with no previous issues on a brand new bike so it is kind of disappointing. Bike has about 400 miles on it. Thanks for any thoughts you all have.
Normally I would say a battery cable loosened up and both +/- should be checked as being properly snugged, but you worked on the battery twice. Whatever it is, it certainly rained on your parade and hopefully it's a quick turnaround from the shop. Best of luck, please let us now what they find.
 
Often it is something simple like the loose connection suggested above. Nevertheless, BobW let us know what the deal is. I have a TC and it operates wonderfully. But gradually we get smarter by sharing info.
 
Just to give an update, the shop said the battery was bad and that the bike needed some software updates. Picked the bike up on Saturday and everything seemed fine for about 100 miles. Then on the same ride I got a code that said "fault with engine control". I did not receive this code previously but did receive many others. The battery voltage was fine and the shop said they checked the charging system on the bike and all was ok. I don't know if there is an issue with the engine control module and when it gets hot it starts to show itself with a loose connection? Both times I have had issues with the bike it has been very hot outside with heat index around 100. I am going to call the shop tomorrow when they open and see what they want me to do as I do not want to be broken down beside the road again. Has anyone else had this same code come up? Thanks for any input you have.
 
Interesting. About 5 miles into my first ride I drove back to the dealer to ask about all the knocking in the clutch. Turns out that is just the dry clutch experience. However, when I pulled into the garage the bike just quit from idle with no warning. Then the mech couldn't start it just like you describe; no action from the start button at all. A few minutes later it started no problem. Never tossed any codes that I'm aware. 3 mechs drove it and none had any issues. I haven't had any since either, but your post has me concerned. Hopefully yours sorts itself out and the gremlin ran from mine in the shop.
 
Just to give an update, the shop said the battery was bad and that the bike needed some software updates. Picked the bike up on Saturday and everything seemed fine for about 100 miles. Then on the same ride I got a code that said "fault with engine control". I did not receive this code previously but did receive many others. The battery voltage was fine and the shop said they checked the charging system on the bike and all was ok. I don't know if there is an issue with the engine control module and when it gets hot it starts to show itself with a loose connection? Both times I have had issues with the bike it has been very hot outside with heat index around 100. I am going to call the shop tomorrow when they open and see what they want me to do as I do not want to be broken down beside the road again. Has anyone else had this same code come up? Thanks for any input you have.
Hopefully the stored code will be specific and they can easily correct the problem. I am a poster child for Murphy's law scenarios so before riding her again I would double check all the battery connections are snug and whatever connectors you can easily get to are well seated. As you noted, heat and vibrations can add enough influence to overload a poor electrical component or connection, but beyond giving her "the once over" there's nothing you can do without something like the gs911 tool or the shop's terminal to the Mother Ship being hooked up to her. Electrical gremlins are usually simple, but can play hide and seek all too well, butt being under warranty the ball is in their court so let them have the headache. Best of luck and hope it's a quick "R+R".
 
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