Transcontinental top case lid rack

[TXBrit]

For those that have added a top case rack to your TC how have you overcome the lid self closing feature that comes with this modification?
Did any of you find a stronger gas spring that will work or some innovative idea/product that helps with this.
I am considering adding a rack to my top case and am trying to get ahead of any issues that will help with my OCD

 

[Cu Dubh]

I added the top case rack but haven't had to load it up yet, so probably can't be real helpful. The rack itself does not affect the lid's openi g/closing operation: when opened, it stays opened. With a load on the rack that may different.

 

[OscarTGrouch]

I added the Top case rack and the organizer inside the lid. Needless to say the "Self closing feature" works way too well! LOL. That's even before I strap anything on the rack. I did Look around and even asked my dealer and there are not stronger gas struts available, or so I have been told. So I got a door stopper that Law enforcement use when they are raiding a place that prevents the door from being closed. (Semi hard rubber) I am not talking about the conventional "Wedge" either. I put it next to the hinge and hold the lid up. Adapt, Improvise, Overcome. However if you find a strut that is stronger be sure to share the part number and where it came from!

 

[Keehn]

For all-things gas struts, I'd check your local RV supplier. They should carry a wide dimensional variety of gas struts, as these are used in RV beds and basement storage doors, to name a couple use cases.

They come in different pre-load capacities (e.g. 10lbs, 20lbs, etc.,). I'd recommend bringing along one of your struts for reference, as the sales rep can cross-reference the part # on the strut itself, or measure the dimensions if no cross-reference is made. I GUARANTEE that BMW didn't commission a bespoke strut for the TC here - there are higher-load matches out there .

Also, If you list the part # here, I can look online and see if I can find any online dealers who might have matching higher-load struts available. I checked the microfiche and BMW doesn't list the strut...

Mike

 

[TXBrit]

For all-things gas struts, I'd check your local RV supplier. They should carry a wide dimensional variety of gas struts, as these are used in RV beds and basement storage doors, to name a couple use cases.

They come in different pre-load capacities (e.g. 10lbs, 20lbs, etc.,). I'd recommend bringing along one of your struts for reference, as the sales rep can cross-reference the part # on the strut itself, or measure the dimensions if no cross-reference is made. I GUARANTEE that BMW didn't commission a bespoke strut for the TC here - there are higher-load matches out there .

Also, If you list the part # here, I can look online and see if I can find any online dealers who might have matching higher-load struts available. I checked the microfiche and BMW doesn't list the strut...

Mike

The BMW part number is 51167009330
The manufacturers part number "Stabilus Lift o mat" on the spring is 614993 0090N 344/20 BD06
I have an enquiry for spec info from the manufacturer, we'll see how that goes
I am not looking to hold up the lid with a load on the rack just when the rack is empty.

 

[OscarTGrouch]

For all-things gas struts, I'd check your local RV supplier. They should carry a wide dimensional variety of gas struts, as these are used in RV beds and basement storage doors, to name a couple use cases.

They come in different pre-load capacities (e.g. 10lbs, 20lbs, etc.,). I'd recommend bringing along one of your struts for reference, as the sales rep can cross-reference the part # on the strut itself, or measure the dimensions if no cross-reference is made. I GUARANTEE that BMW didn't commission a bespoke strut for the TC here - there are higher-load matches out there .

Also, If you list the part # here, I can look online and see if I can find any online dealers who might have matching higher-load struts available. I checked the microfiche and BMW doesn't list the strut...

Mike

Didn't think of RV shops, Although I am not impressed with their "abilities" when it comes to my RV either LOL. I did a pretty basic internet search including the manufacturer that I found on the strut, They did not list any thing on line, If I remember correctly (its been a "few days" & I have slept since then ) I think I sent a email request and never heard back from them. Hence the door wedge. I have a Wunderlich top case rack bag from my GTL that I use for stuff that wont get hurt getting wet, the BMW organizer inside the lid mostly for paperwork (Registration couple of allen wrenches etc. (literally a couple like in 3 small ones) Two flag mounts on the rack (love my flags). So not a lot of weight on the lid. Still would like to put stronger struts in there though!

 

[Keehn]

The BMW part number is 51167009330
The manufacturers part number "Stabilus Lift o mat" on the spring is 614993 0090N 344/20 BD06
I have an enquiry for spec info from the manufacturer, we'll see how that goes
I am not looking to hold up the lid with a load on the rack just when the rack is empty.

No joy on the part number, which is "614993". I did however, find this:

https://www.stabilus.com/media/default/AA_STABILUS/_PDF_Dateien/Industrial/Stabilus_standard_programm_2018.pdf

Which is a PDF of their catalog. It would seem if you can measure your strut (in mm's), you can find a suitable replacement with the sufficient gas preload desired.

Also, the "0090N" is the Newton's of force. In this case, 90N = 9.18Kg = 20.24Lbs. So, you'll want your replacement to ADD the weight of the cargo rack to this number to ensure you get your desired result.

Mike

 

[TXBrit]

No joy on the part number, which is "614993". I did however, find this:

https://www.stabilus.com/media/default/AA_STABILUS/_PDF_Dateien/Industrial/Stabilus_standard_programm_2018.pdf

Which is a PDF of their catalog. It would seem if you can measure your strut (in mm's), you can find a suitable replacement with the sufficient gas preload desired.

Also, the "0090N" is the Newton's of force. In this case, 90N = 9.18Kg = 20.24Lbs. So, you'll want your replacement to ADD the weight of the cargo rack to this number to ensure you get your desired result.

Mike

That is good information right there. I did some measuring best I could without taking the whole thing apart, which looks like a right pain in the butt to get to the mounting points.
It seems they have a 6mm rod, 15mm body OD, 40mm stroke maybe more if the hinge is restricting more movement, 6mm hole in eyelets at each end with an overall length eyelet to eyelet of 185mm fully extended or maybe that's as far as the hinges will allow. The eyelets are 3mm thick.
I will do some looking.

Update.
The stroke 40mm is what is being used in this application. It seems the total stroke of this cylinder is 60mm I found a cylinder with the right dimensions and 150 Newtons force in the Stabilus catalogue and have found not only stabilus springs but also other brands. I will probably go with the Stabilus part number 192864. Still researching because I noticed on their web site they have locking cylinders too which may be even better.

It looks like the locking devices are for their larger springs. I did order a pair of this part number 192864 from Amazon in Germany. The ones I found for sale here all had additional numbers/letters incorporated into the part number that is indicative of variations in mounting eyelets. The ones that were equivalent all had fatter ends on them which may work in some applications but I'm not sure they would here. Anyhow its a project and I will let you know how it all turns out when everything is gathered.

 

[TXBrit]

Abandoning project. After further consideration and seeing that the top case is double skinned I have decided against adding a rack. I couldn't get my head around drilling through 2 layers of plastic then having an unsupported void between the inner and outer where the rack would sit.

 

[OscarTGrouch]

Up to you of course, but it is scary to drill through but its not that hard The screws go into the rack from the inside, some silicone around the holes make it water tight. Lots of masking tape on top of the lid so the drill bit doesn't walk. Easy peezy

 

[TXBrit]

Up to you of course, but it is scary to drill through but its not that hard The screws go into the rack from the inside, some silicone around the holes make it water tight. Lots of masking tape on top of the lid so the drill bit doesn't walk. Easy peezy

It isn't the drilling of the holes that bothers me it's the long term effect of the carrier sitting on the top case cover not supported by anything other than the cover itself which is really quite thin. A new cover if the worst should happen is $750 just for the painted outer cover piece. My initial thoughts were to mount a rack and have some fender washers on the inside to support the lid but when I realized the lid is double skinned that kind of nixes that idea. Anyhow a lesson learned and maybe this thread will give others insight as to how they want to proceed or not with a similar project.
Picture of top case without the cover

 

[Keehn]

It isn't the drilling of the holes that bothers me it's the long term effect of the carrier sitting on the top case cover not supported by anything other than the cover itself which is really quite thin. A new cover if the worst should happen is $750 just for the painted outer cover piece. My initial thoughts were to mount a rack and have some fender washers on the inside to support the lid but when I realized the lid is double skinned that kind of nixes that idea. Anyhow a lesson learned and maybe this thread will give others insight as to how they want to proceed or not with a similar project.
Picture of top case without the coverView attachment 12202

If you look at where the Wunderlich's top rack mounts are placed, they sit at the strongest edge points of the plastic. While Wunderlich doesn't list the load capacity, I wouldn't put anything more than 20lbs on it. But, I think that's true with ANY motorcycle top rack.

It appears that Oscar is sporting the same product.

Here's the link to Wunderlich's top rack:

https://www.wunderlichamerica.com/BMW-wunderlich-topcase-rack-r18-transcontinental.html

Mike

 

[OscarTGrouch]

Yep Wunderlich top rack, Load limit is very light. I normally put things in there ( Wunderlich top rack bag for the GTL) that it doesn't matter if they get wet, or are wet, yet I need quick access. Rain gear, Sunscreen, aspirin / meds (in water proof containers.) Water bottles are too much weight even just one! Never had a problem, either my GTL or my RT's R18 is no exception.

 

[TXBrit]

If you look at where the Wunderlich's top rack mounts are placed, they sit at the strongest edge points of the plastic. While Wunderlich doesn't list the load capacity, I wouldn't put anything more than 20lbs on it. But, I think that's true with ANY motorcycle top rack.

It appears that Oscar is sporting the same product.

Here's the link to Wunderlich's top rack:

https://www.wunderlichamerica.com/BMW-wunderlich-topcase-rack-r18-transcontinental.html

Mike

I think that you all have convinced me to go ahead with this. I have all the parts, the Wunderlich rack and the stronger struts arrived yesterday. I just need to set aside a day to take the box apart mount the new struts and the rack. It appears you have to separate the bottom inner from the outer to change the struts and the same with the top. Just have to get over my OCD and make the time to do it.

 

[valkraider]

It isn't the drilling of the holes that bothers me it's the long term effect of the carrier sitting on the top case cover not supported by anything other than the cover itself which is really quite thin. A new cover if the worst should happen is $750 just for the painted outer cover piece. My initial thoughts were to mount a rack and have some fender washers on the inside to support the lid but when I realized the lid is double skinned that kind of nixes that idea. Anyhow a lesson learned and maybe this thread will give others insight as to how they want to proceed or not with a similar project.
Picture of top case without the coverView attachment 12202

Any updates on your project?

How hard is it to get the layers separated - to take off that top plastic cover layer?

I was thinking of getting 4 thin rubber washers or o-rings, that would "net" to about the same overall thickness as those rubber square supports that you see in this picture. Those squares are inset a little, so I don't think it would take too thick of a washer. Drill the holes, take apart the layers, and place the washers at the sites of the holes, and then put them back together and bolt it down, which would keep the plastic cover layer from being deformed too much at the bolt site.

Is that overthinking?

Now has anyone come up with any way to allow the trunk lid to open farther? haha (new topic?)

 

[TXBrit]

Any updates on your project?

How hard is it to get the layers separated - to take off that top plastic cover layer?

I was thinking of getting 4 thin rubber washers or o-rings, that would "net" to about the same overall thickness as those rubber square supports that you see in this picture. Those squares are inset a little, so I don't think it would take too thick of a washer. Drill the holes, take apart the layers, and place the washers at the sites of the holes, and then put them back together and bolt it down, which would keep the plastic cover layer from being deformed too much at the bolt site.

Is that overthinking?

Now has anyone come up with any way to allow the trunk lid to open farther? haha (new topic?)

I eventually abandoned the project. I decided that adding the rack with the obvious limited carrying capacity wasn't worth the risk of damaging the top case cover.
I too went through the same thought process as you regarding support of the cover.
The cover itself is easy to remove, lots of screws and some square nuts holding the side trim pieces on that are a challenge to get back where they belong. Just time consuming.
Opening the lid more would mean replacing the gas springs for ones with longer travel which may or may not work out. I did get some stronger ones via Amazon Europe but they are just stronger not longer.
The TC will only ever be a long weekend tourer for 2 people which is how I ride mostly.
Both myself and my wife are in our 60's and like some creature comforts so any touring away from TX will involve trailering the bike to a destination and riding while we are there, that way we can take whatever we like with us for as long as we like. "Retirement is good"

 

[Micp]

Hi, with regards to this rack, I did fit 1 a few months back & was concerned by lack of detail in positioning on top box though went ahead with installation. I generally only put shoes in a dry bag on rack as not much weight & found them hard to pack. First weekend away we had with rack in use the outer skin cracked in 2 places running back from the forward rack legs about 70/75mm. Replaced the outer skin at $857 Aussie $, fitted rubber spacer washers under the new outer skin below rack legs ( as should have done first up) & now no flex in outer skin. Am leaving on a return trip of 9000 kms in a week so it will get a test out then!
Recently retired & traded my 2018 HD Ultra Limited in on a 2022 R18TC, was new showroom model fully optioned up & price wise was very good deal. I’m 5’9”, screen & fairing very good for me, fitted a Corbin saddle which is great now, see what I think when back from my trip to Western Australia.
Yes I agree retirement is good,
cheers