• Welcome to the BMW R18 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

Help/Advice needed for front fork springs replacement

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1758297946#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter Manhattan Matte
  • Start date Start date

Manhattan Matte

Active member
Joined
Sep 25, 2024
Messages
124
Location
Fayetteville, TX
Visit site
Bike
R18, R9T
I'm looking for tips / advice on how to replace the front fork springs on my 2023 R18 Basic. I have Wilbers progressive springs on the way. Not finding much info. on the site, so I'd appreciate advice from anyone who has performed this task. I'm assuming the front fork legs need to be removed, or can the fork caps simply be removed, the springs removed and the fork oil drained or syphoned without removing the whole fork legs? Expensive quotes for labor charges from several dealerships convince me that this is a job that I should and can afford to do myself. I've easily managed to remove the OEM Sachs rear shock and waiting for a new Wilbers shock to arrive this week. Thanks in advance. :)

IMG_0091 2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks kate_brett. I reread the post you mentioned about the fork springs. From your comments, it looks like you have also changed the springs and fork oil on your FE. Did you have any of the difficulties that the OP had in removing the fork bolts. Any other details or tips you might add from your experience? I'm determined to do this job myself and learn as I go. Best.
 
I decided to just jump in to the deep end while I'm waiting for the Wibers springs and rear shock to arrive. First, I put the bike up on my Kern-Stabi lift. Managed to get the forks off easily enough by removing the front wheel, fender, and then removing the top fork caps. I used a big torque wrench to loosen and remove the caps - they were certainly in there tight, but not gummed up with locktite like the OP of "looks pretty simple" thread. Loosened the 4 lower fork pinch bolts, and then was able to carefully slide the forks out with a gentle tap of a rubber hammer. I used a vise clamp to grip the forks to prevent them from rotating while removing the top bolt, which was also really tight. I have the forks draining now. Installing the new springs should go easily now that I know more about what I'm doing. I saved $900 by doing the work myself and learned a lot in the process. $900 was the labor charge quoted from 2 dealerships for what was described as a day long job. I did it in 2 ½ hours. :)

IMG_0096.jpg IMG_0094.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'll be doing mine soon. I've replaced fork springs several times in the past, always on Honda's though.
 
bigalcam, I replaced the front springs and rear shock on my 2021 R9T (with Progressive springs and TFX shock) when still relatively new. Made a great big difference. I'm hoping the Wilbers will do the same for my R18. My roads are mainly bone-rattling, rough, patched, pot-holed, country, 2-lane highways in rural central Texas. I'll give a ride report when the parts arrive. Christmas UPS delays, I suspect.
 
When I did mine, my fork caps were thread locked big time (3/21 production.... so maybe BMW stopped this practise at some stage since). The rest of the process was normal for these type of forks. I did also add YSS emulators as well as the Wilbers fork springs and 7w oil. The emulators are usefull for sharp edges (high speed compression dampening).... so pot holes etc. 90% of my riding is on poorish roads at speed.
 
Last edited:
Noelpolar, I have a new (leftover) 2023 R18 Basic with about 700 miles. I've been reading up on emulators and how they work, but think I'll go with just the new springs and fork oil to see if that works for me. Good to see you on the R9T forum. I'm CosmicBlue on that site.
 
Hello vittomasi, I haven't received my Wilber springs, fork oil and rear shock yet, but here's the info. that I"ll use from the Beemers Workshop website:

Wilbers Zero Friction Progressive Fork Springs have several advantages over linear springs. A Progressive Rate Spring has the advantage of a rising rate resistance to compression. The benefit of this is that the spring can be soft enough at the start of the travel to offer a "plush" ride, yet be firm enough at the end of the travel to soak up the big bumps and reduce nose dive.

Don't forget the Fork Oil! You will need 1 Liter 7wt for these springs.

Please note:
Air chamber is 120mm with springs removed and forks completely compressed.

Instructions for setting air chamber:
1) Remove fork spring and drain old oil.
2) Compress fork fully with spring removed.
3) Add oil until oil level is the prescribed distance from the top of the tube - this is your air chamber.
Piston rods should be pumped several times to dispel any remaining air before final measurement is made.
 
Hi, can you tell me how much oil is needed for the fork?

Fwiw.... you need more than 1 litre.... so in my part of the world 2 bottles to do both legs. BMW manual says approx 800ml per leg... as per attached.

Wilbers must be talking "per leg"...... lost in the translation......
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Noelpolar, I have a new (leftover) 2023 R18 Basic with about 700 miles. I've been reading up on emulators and how they work, but think I'll go with just the new springs and fork oil to see if that works for me. Good to see you on the R9T forum. I'm CosmicBlue on that site.

Howdy! Fwiw... the emulators made a real difference on my scrambler but not so much on my R18..... I put this down to the heavier R18 absorbing things a bit more (I've ridden the same potholed dirt roads on both sussing things out... 19" front wheels on both).
 
Thanks Noelpolar, I thought I'd receive the front springs and fork oil today, but the holiday rush is causing delivery delays. Hope I don't have to order more oil - one liter was the instruction when I ordered from EPM Performance. I did receive the Wilbers 640 today, however, after about 4 weeks wait from Ted Porter Beemer Workshop! Take a look at the big difference in spring quality - Wilbers on the left, OEM Sachs on the right. Will install tomorrow.

IMG_0098.jpg.
 
Thanks Noelpolar, I thought I'd receive the front springs and fork oil today, but the holiday rush is causing delivery delays. Hope I don't have to order more oil - one liter was the instruction when I ordered from EPM Performance. I did receive the Wilbers 640 today, however, after about 4 weeks wait from Ted Porter Beemer Workshop! Take a look at the big difference in spring quality - Wilbers on the left, OEM Sachs on the right. Will install tomorrow.

If getting the fork oil is a difficult thing, then drain and filter the old oil (if getting back on the road is important) as you will need it for the second fork leg. Then latter you can just redo that leg.

My 43mm BMW Scrambler forks took about 580ml each side and the 49's a lot more than that (about 1.5 "1 litre" bottles). There is no way one bottle will do it, unless one is Jesus.
 
No water into wine miracles going on here in rural Texas. :) UPS delivery has crashed during the holiday rush. I'll order more fork oil if needed and wait for delivery - too chilly to ride here anyway. I'll wait until the Wilbers fork springs and oil show up and then figure out the necessary volume.
 
No water into wine miracles going on here in rural Texas. :) UPS delivery has crashed during the holiday rush. I'll order more fork oil if needed and wait for delivery - too chilly to ride here anyway. I'll wait until the Wilbers fork springs and oil show up and then figure out the necessary volume.
I thought Texas weather was like ours, sorta ok in winter at least a few days of the week... our winter days are mostly 45 to 55f.... rain 2 or so days a week.... medium windy 3 or so days a week... anyway.... summer now.
 
Noelpolar must be one of the three Wise Men - listen to him when he says TWO 1 liter bottles of fork oil are required when replacing Wilbers springs and fork oil. Waiting for the second 1 liter bottle to arrive to finish up my install. But, it's "slow as Christmas" as the saying goes. At least I'll get out this morning to ride my R9T when the fog clears. Will be 77 degrees F. today in rural Texas. Merry Christmas, all.

IMG_0110.jpg
 
Xmas day here and a warmish 97 down under.

Fwiw my r ninet took more than 1 bottle as well (560ml per leg) .... but left enough of the 2nd bottle so my R18 could use the left overs..... which I took as a sign that I was meant to have one of each (perfect man logic my wife thinks).
 
Last edited:
You can also try Bel-Ray fork oil available at Cycle Gear for $17 per liter. It’s just as good as OEM and comes in various weights.
 
Thanks, laennecr. I just ordered a liter of Motul 7.5 wt. oil, and a Fork Oil Level gauge from Cycle Gear. Free shipping and should get here quickly. I've been working on a DIY gadget to help compress the forks enough to get the screw caps started. This has been quite a learning experience. Can't wait to find out the results of changing springs and shock with Wilbers - hopefully much for the better.
 
Back
Top