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Help/Advice needed for front fork springs replacement

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1768230793#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter Manhattan Matte
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Manhattan Matte said:
Thanks, laennecr. I just ordered a liter of Motul 7.5 wt. oil, and a Fork Oil Level gauge from Cycle Gear. Free shipping and should get here quickly. I've been working on a DIY gadget to help compress the forks enough to get the screw caps started. This has been quite a learning experience. Can't wait to find out the results of changing springs and shock with Wilbers - hopefully much for the better.
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My special fork cap compression tool was my son pushing down on a 2x4 while I screwed the tube into the cap. Worked well and didn’t take too much effort. If you come up with a solo method let us/me know so I can try it next time. I’m sure it’s more of a struggle to get a teenager out of bed to help with this than cobbling something together. Merry xmas.
 
Manhattan Matte said:
Can't wait to find out the results of changing springs and shock with Wilbers - hopefully much for the better.
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Fwiw.... I've found that I had to back off the spring compression a bit from how the shock was supplied, dampening was in the ball park.... roads here are pretty poor though. Worth checking and noting unladen and rider sag etc. And maybe revisiting after 3 months or so as shock settles in.
 
Thanks, Noelpolar. Will re-check the shock compression when I get some more miles on the new bike and new suspension set-up. Suspect it will be stiffer at first, but much improved, hopefully. Best for the New Year.
 
Didn't have a hefty teenager to help me compress the springs, so I came up with this DIY contraption. Basically two long threaded rods, a wooden base, a piece of 2 x 4 for the top, and nuts with washers that tighten down to compress the springs inside the fork, allowing the cap to be screwed back on. An old Workmate vice table held the fork in place vertically. My petite wife tightened one side down with a wrench, while I did the other in sync to keep the top level as it tightened. So one fork done - waiting for more fork oil to do the other. I didn't measure, but I think each fork takes about 800 ml of oil. I just measured the air gap as per Wilbers instructions. The first photo shows the whole contraption, the second is the top, and the last is the bottom. :)

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Finally got the bike back together after replacing the springs and shock with Wilbers. Took it for a chilly test ride this morning. I wasn't out long enough to really get a good impression of the new suspension, but it did seem to handle the rural TX potholes and bumps better on my short ride. Will give it a more complete road test when the temps warm up. Also swapped out the fishtail mufflers for these Akrapovic beauties. They give a quiet, mellow sound which I prefer - similar to the OEM fishtails - so I wouldn't recommend these if you're looking for a louder exhaust note. :)

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So what the word on the Wilburs springs? You got me thinking about it. Also I’m stealing your fork press idea.
 
laennecr said:
So what the word on the Wilburs springs? You got me thinking about it. Also I’m stealing your fork press idea.
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Just keep in mind your fork caps may have thread lock on them (as a 22 build). Also, fwiw, I found pushing down and getting the thread caps started easy by hand....... same on my r ninet as well (63yo). I would do the springs again, so worth it in my view if bike is a long termer.
 
Yes to thread locker or maybe crazy glue on my fork caps. I really struggled getting them off. As far as getting them back on, there was no way for me to get them started by hand. I couldn’t even come close. I did use 20wt oil so maybe that made the difference. Thanks for the update.
 
laennecr said:
Yes to thread locker or maybe crazy glue on my fork caps. I really struggled getting them off. As far as getting them back on, there was no way for me to get them started by hand. I couldn’t even come close. I did use 20wt oil so maybe that made the difference. Thanks for the update.
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Maybe some internal differences from my 21 bike...... such as spacer length etc though I went 7w oil so could be..... however, all I dream about is thread locker where it has no right to be!
 
laennecr, I've only put a few miles on the bike since replacing the suspension with Wilbers on my R18 Pure. It's been unusually cold here, even snowing, in central TX. But, I can report that the Wilbers +20 mm rear shock is a big improvement. It really smooths out the ride, which for me is mainly rough, pot-holed, rural highways. The front springs are an improvement, too, but I guess I was hoping for more. The country roads here are very corrugated because of constant patching and repairs. The Wilbers front springs handle the bumps better, but I'm still feeling vibration in the handlebars when going over the rough parts. Maybe it will smooth out and improve with a little more time and a few more miles on the bike. So overall, yes, I'm happy with the results. If my motorcycle expense account wasn't so empty now - and if I could do it over again - I'd probably opt for a complete Ohlins front suspension system, rather than the Wilbers progressive springs. But for now, I'm going to be satisfied with the improvements made and enjoy the ride. :)
 
Thanks, Noelplar. Yes, if I ever re-do the front springs, I'll go with the emulators. For now, I'm going to enjoy and appreciate this new bike - try to learn what it is and what it's capable of. My greatest pleasure is fixing my BMWs to meet my requirements. I have my 2021 R9T figured out, so now I'm focussing on the R18. :)
 
I put the emulators in my 21. They recomend 10 wt oil. I did one side and found it to be a little too soft, so when I did the other side, I used 20 Wt.

WELL WORTH THE TIME

I have a progressive rear shock with stock BMW spring on it.

Bike rides awesome. 30,000 miles on it.
David
 
David R said:
I put the emulators in my 21. They recomend 10 wt oil. I did one side and found it to be a little too soft, so when I did the other side, I used 20 Wt.

WELL WORTH THE TIME

I have a progressive rear shock with stock BMW spring on it.

Bike rides awesome. 30,000 miles on it.
David
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My Wilbers front springs seem to be smoothing out the ride a little more, with less vibration after a few more miles. The Wilber rear shock is a great improvement. Waiting for a Day Rider seat to arrive. Hoping this will be the end of my saga to make my R18 pure into a more comfortable long-distance bike, :)
 
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