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What did you do to your R18 today?

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1768230793#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter TodkaVonic
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Went out for a 3 hr ride without the Lower Leg Wind Protection and Engine Protection Bar; some notes, there's an absolute difference in wind management above 68 mph, the weight of the bike feel much lighter and I'm still leaning towards the improved look minus the protection bar...

I might sell the protection bar and lower leg fairings..

Screenshot_20250817-133532.png
 
btw removing wind protection equal adding driver´s license points protection :cool:

As to the steering damper, that is is needed with either/or fork mounted wind protection and larger = heavier panniers.
A steering damper, as the word says, dampens steering will slow down steering so it is a trade off safety thing.
 
Star-L... I am surprised you decided to remove the lowers. My experience is the Transcontinental has the best wind management.

I recently bought a set of Memphis Shades fork deflectors for my StreetGlide. Was spoiled by the superior wind protection on my current R18. The fork deflectors on the R18 are the exact same set as on the Street Glide and boy do they zero out the updraft turbulence.

You might consider this light weight fix for your model B. Total cost was for $95 for both the deflectors and the brackets.
The part number for the deflectors is MEM5804
The part number for the mounting brackets is MEK1980

lowers.jpg
 
BER18 100 said:
Star-L... I am surprised you decided to remove the lowers. My experience is the Transcontinental has the best wind management.

I recently bought a set of Memphis Shades fork deflectors for my StreetGlide. Was spoiled by the superior wind protection on my current R18. The fork deflectors on the R18 are the exact same set as on the Street Glide and boy do they zero out the updraft turbulence.

You might consider this light weight fix for your model B. Total cost was for $95 for both the deflectors and the brackets.
The part number for the deflectors is MEM5804
The part number for the mounting brackets is MEK1980

View attachment 18793
Click to expand...

I'm thinking the removal of the Engine Protection Bar and the Lower Leg Protection Fairings is probably a temporary thing... I can definitely feel the difference in increased turbulence without the lower leg fairings, especially over 68 mph.

I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I'm going to sell the lower leg fairings and engine protection bar and maintain the simple clean look of the Bagger...
 
I had the Roadstyler engine guards. Wanted the option of putting my feet up on long trips. Took a 3k ride in May and used them pretty infrequently. The stock seat finally was broken in so I was comfortable without having to move around as much. Took the guard off, in my opinion it takes away from the fantastic look of the cylinders. In the garage if I change my mind, but don't think I will.
 
Needed a new front tyre.... and had one in the garage that was removed from my r9t scrambler when I bought it new back in 21.... it was the same size, load rating etc .... what could go wrong......

20250822_165800~2.jpg
 
Petrus said:
Yellow dot not at the valve... thus lead compensating double.
Click to expand...
Good Eye... Yellow & Red dots... It amazes me, that folks that mount tires for a living, or work as a mechanic don't know or implement these things - especially, after paying good hard earned money for a professional service...
 
Home sick from work today; I finally got around to putting some BLACK colored heat shrink on the newly installed wiring from the Reverse Fix, the RED colored lug was driving me crazy... (T-30 Torx).

Also, put a plastic nut cap on the Reverse motor that is somewhat exposed on the opposite side; I'm not sure why the technicians can't do this $#@! correctly...?

PXL_20250826_210632603.RAW-01.COVER.jpg
 
Star-Lord said:
Home sick from work today; I finally got around to putting some BLACK colored heat shrink on the newly installed wiring from the Reverse Fix, the RED colored lug was driving me crazy... (T-30 Torx).

Also, put a plastic nut cap on the Reverse motor that is somewhat exposed on the opposite side; I'm not sure why the technicians can't do this $#@! correctly...?
Click to expand...
Só appreciate your kind of OCD!

Now what did you do about the red buttons on the switch gear :LOL:
 
Star-Lord said:
I like the RED colored buttons... It gives the R18 that Modern-Analog vibe...

Plus, hopefully you don't need to use the Horn and or Hazards buttons
Click to expand...

I get what you mean------ but as emergency buttons they suck imo. Despite them being red they are still not instinctive thus could just as well be chrome, grey or black. Hazard lights and horn don´t need be red anyway imo and the combined start / emergency kill is a brain fart as far as emergency cut off goes.
 
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