HUNTS
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2023
- Messages
- 70
- Location
- Western Australia
- Bike
- 2025 Brooklyn Grey ‘Blacked Out’
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Not sure how accurate this is, but you might give it a try. I asked my buddy openaiI have a ‘25 model and I need a simple explanation (limited mechanical knowledge) on how to remove the clutch and brake levers, as I am getting them powder coated black.
View attachment 19944
That would be great. It’s just the standard model, not the B, Classic or Roctane.Not sure how accurate this is, but you might give it a try. I asked my buddy openai
For both levers you’ll need:
✔ Torx bits — typically:
✔ 10mm wrench (nut under pivot bolt, depending on year)
- T25 (switch gear fasteners)
- T30 or T40 (lever pivot bolt, varies by supplier batch)
✔ Light grease (lithium or silicone) for reassembly
BMW puts microswitches under BOTH levers:
Do not pry levers outward against the switch — that’s how people break them.
- Clutch side: switch for starter interlock / cruise control
- Brake side: switch for brake light activation
1. Turn bars fully left
This gives you room and takes tension off the lever.
2. Locate the pivot bolt
- On top of master cylinder housing
- Torx head on top
- Nut underneath (10mm or captive depending on year)
3. Hold nut + remove bolt
- Use Torx on top
- Use wrench underneath if there’s a free nut
- Keep pressure on lever while backing bolt out
4. Support lever & slide out carefully
As you slide it out:
- Watch the brake light microswitch near the lever pivot
- Do not yank or twist the lever outward
- Once play appears, push lever slightly forward to clear switch plunger
5. Remove lever
Set aside, inspect the pivot sleeve and bushings.
1. Turn bars fully right
Gives room and takes tension off clutch cable/rod.
2. Inspect clutch actuation
R18 uses a cable clutch, so you must give slack.
3. Create slack
There are 2 ways:
Method A — adjuster barrel (easier):
Method B — mid-cable adjuster (if lever adjuster runs out)
- At lever perch, rotate adjuster to give slack
- Goal: get cable nipple loose from lever pocket
4. Remove pivot bolt same as brake
- Torx top
- Nut bottom depending on build
5. Free the clutch cable
Once bolt is out:
- Rotate lever to align cable end
- Lift cable end up and out of the lever slot
- Do NOT pull cable sideways under load
6. Watch clutch microswitch
Under the lever is a tiny starter interlock switch
- Don’t depress it with tools
- Don’t snag the plunger
Pivot lubrication
Light grease is appropriate on:
✔ Pivot bolt
✔ Lever bore
✔ Cable barrel (clutch only)
Do NOT lubricate the brake microswitch plungers.
Microswitch function test
Before starting engine verify:
Brake side:
✔ Brake light comes on with minimal lever movement
Clutch side:
✔ Bike will start in gear with clutch pulled
✔ Cruise control will cancel if you tap clutch (on equipped models)
- Brake lever: 5–10 minutes
- Clutch lever: 10–20 minutes
People tend to:
Pry lever outward → breaks microswitch
Forget clutch cable slack → cable frays
Lose pivot nut under tank plastic
Grease the switch plunger → switch sticks
Pinch switch wiring under lever perch
Tell me the brand because some shorty and non-BMW-profile levers:
If you’re replacing with aftermarket levers
R18s are less picky than S1000RR, but still not totally “Harley-style plug and play.”
- Don’t properly depress the brake switch
- Don’t activate the clutch starter interlock
- Don’t clear the handguard mounts (if added)
If you want diagrams or torque specs:
Tell me the year (yours = 2025 R18 B) and I’ll give:
And if what you really want is a BMW service manual page for the levers, say the word and I’ll generate a formatted PDF-style instruction sheet that looks like the real thing.
- Pivot torque spec
- Microswitch exploded diagram
- Clutch cable slack spec
- Lubrication points
welp, sorry, Didn't have access to it. Just repeated what I posted above. Seems to be pretty simple. Give you a chance to get personally acquainted with your bikeThat would be great. It’s just the standard model, not the B, Classic or Roctane.