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How To Signal lights harness question

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1791081245#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter JoshF
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JoshF

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BMW R18 / Yamaha XMax
Hi all,

Soon to be owner of a R18 base model here (waiting for the pesky inspections to be out of the way!).

I’ve plans to install the Corbin touring fairing on the R18, which would require moving the signal lights down to the forks.

I am not a big fan of cutting harnesses, so I’ve figured I can remove the original signal lights harnesses from the bars and re-route them to the forks.

Having perused this forum and the internet, one thing I’m stuck on is whether it is difficult to pull the signal light harness through the handlebars? I will be able to de-pin the connectors, but is anyone able to share if the harness is wrapped with the other control wires? And if so, has anyone managed to get around it?

Any help would be much appreciated
 
I’d avoid cutting the harness as well. If you can de pin the connectors, that should be the cleanest approach.
From what I understand, the turn signal wiring is routed internally through the bars alongside the other switchgear wiring, so the main challenge is getting the signal wires out without disturbing or damaging the other harnesses. Before pulling anything, I’d use the existing wire as a pull-through: attach a strong piece of string/fishing line to it, pull the wire out, and then use the string to pull the rerouted harness back through. That way you have a reference for the original routing.
I’d also take plenty of photos and mark the connector orientation before removing the pins. Give yourself enough slack at the steering head for full left/right lock and suspension movement don’t leave the wiring tight at either extreme.
If anyone has already moved the R18 signals to the forks, I’d be interested to hear whether the signal wires can be separated from the main handlebar harness without removing the other controls.
 
If adding a Corbin Touring fairing; why not, just purchase a R18 Model B? You get the fairing and the directional are already on the front forks.

If the Model B approach is off the table; then perhaps, purchase the Model B part that currently serves as the front directional mount. I did the opposite on my Model B, where I removed the fork mounted directionals and replaced the directional mounting hardware that is used on the Transcontinental; the mounting hardware is a malleable plastic, where I made a thin cut with a Dremel and was able to remove the original mounts and install the new TC mounts without disassembling the front fork assembly. The cut is out of sight when installed; however, the fork caps are secured with two threaded bolts to the shock housing - not sure if your R18 Model has the bell housing hardware?

Screenshot_20260923-062259.png

Below are pictures from an R18 First Edition's wiring harness; which I replaced in order to install a beachbar style handlebar, you'll see the directional wiring is bundled within a single loom within the handlebars.

I would suggest removing the fuel tank and locate the directional wiring interface connections; and adopt those connections for your front directional relocation project.

Screenshot_20260923-060803.png

If I recall the Bobber project that I did last year, I believe I found both directional connectors mounted under the fuel tank, using two separate connectors; perhaps search the forum, as there are lots of pictures from other forum members.

You should be able to tone out the cabling, using a tone generator and a probe pickup.
 
If adding a Corbin Touring fairing; why not, just purchase a R18 Model B? You get the fairing and the directional are already on the front forks.

If the Model B approach is off the table; then perhaps, purchase the Model B part that currently serves as the front directional mount. I did the opposite on my Model B, where I removed the fork mounted directionals and replaced the directional mounting hardware that is used on the Transcontinental; the mounting hardware is a malleable plastic, where I made a thin cut with a Dremel and was able to remove the original mounts and install the new TC mounts without disassembling the front fork assembly. The cut is out of sight when installed; however, the fork caps are secured with two threaded bolts to the shock housing - not sure if your R18 Model has the bell housing hardware?

View attachment 22538

Below are pictures from an R18 First Edition's wiring harness; which I replaced in order to install a beachbar style handlebar, you'll see the directional wiring is bundled within a single loom within the handlebars.

I would suggest removing the fuel tank and locate the directional wiring interface connections; and adopt those connections for your front directional relocation project.

View attachment 22539

If I recall the Bobber project that I did last year, I believe I found both directional connectors mounted under the fuel tank, using two separate connectors; perhaps search the forum, as there are lots of pictures from other forum members.

You should be able to tone out the cabling, using a tone generator and a probe pickup.
Hello, I’m doing a bobber conversion on my 22 classic. It has been fairly straightforward with the rear fender and seat. I’m a bit nervous about the turn signals. I’ve purchased the kellerman Atto signals. ( wires are fricken tiny). You mentioned above that the connector for the front signals is that under the tank. Is the rear connector in the same place? Did you replace the original signals? If you did did you have any fault code issues?
I know folks are busy, so thanks for any thought on this you may have.
 
See the below images of the Front Directionals connection under the fuel tank; also, see the image showing the wiring harness bundle, which will help you identify the above mentioned:

Screenshot_20260926-055729.png

Screenshot_20260926-060926.png

I installed the mini Kellerman front Directionals, which were the BMW OEM accessory brand; which, was plug & play with zero errors or codes.

My rear fender was purchased from LMC, which arrived with the Kellerman (3 Wire) and not the 2-Wire North American version; the rear Brake/Directional Lights and the License plate light were throwing an error code.

The LMC fender kit included a Kellerman resistive module, which suppressed the above mentioned error codes via some GS-911 HEXCODE parameter changes. (Try searching "Kellerman" and Star-Lord, or scottsemone or "deleted member 1618)... I posted a wiring diagram during my FE Bobber Project

You should be able to trace the Rear brake/directionals and license plate wiring harness, which terminates under the license plate bracket and eventually under the seat pan on the Left Hand Side (Clutch Side); see below images, showing wire color codes:

Screenshot_20260926-055907.png

Screenshot_20260926-055832.png


I hope this helps...
 
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