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Bar End Signal Project- Done!

Gerard

Well-known member
Premium Member
Ok !
I've finished mounting my Ox-eyes Turn lights.
Here dismantled :

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4573.jpg


I had to use this adapter :

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4576.jpg


And had to thread it inside to M8 instead of M6
This done the bored M8 screw coming with the signal can be used to seize it.

I used the Motogadget MO.BLAZE pin turn signal, as counselled by Holan ( thanks !).


PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4571.jpg

Using some self-vulcanizing tape on the thread , this mini signal can be seized in the screw hole inside the Ox-eye signal.

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4585.jpg

Here are the mounting steps:
First I had to cut the expanding end of the signal.

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4578.jpg

Then install it on the bar end with the bored screw:

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4583.jpg

I first covered the remaining visible axle with a soft plastic tube.
Then decided to put a foam ring cut from a full foam handle cover:PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4584.jpg

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4582.jpg

The last remaining job to do was the electrical connection.
No problem to pass the wire through the bar, but I had to transform male connectors to insert them into the OEM female connector:


PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4587.jpg

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4588.jpg
 
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Gerard

Well-known member
Premium Member
PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4596.jpg

PHOTOS GALAX A 20 11 11 2021 4597.jpg

Then everything is sent back inside the bar to be invisible !

If you know where I could get male connector to fit in the BMW one let me know.

And the result :

The MO.BLAZE pin turn signal is hold in place with it's rubbered thread in the hole receiving the head of the M8 bored screw.
You must mind to orient it with the inside mirror reflecting the light to the front.

Oeil de boeuf 3.jpg

Oeil de boeuf 1.jpg

Oeil de boeuf 2.jpg

Oh! and YES ! It works ! :ROFLMAO:

Oeil de boeuf 5.jpg




EDIT : I realized from the pics that the amber lenses were reverse oriented, and sent the light to the side!
And that I couldn't put them upside down because there's a protuberance imposing the position.
So I had to file the protuberance and could set them the right way.
Everything is ok now 😚
 
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TodkaVonic

Well-known member
Elite Member
Very cool Gerard!

Just a thought: If you were to lengthen the distance between the end of the bar and the beginning of the thread inside the bar, would your turn signals be able to sit flush against the tube without the foam?

I used a 9/16th inch drill bit to bore the tube further. Added duct tape to the drill bit so I wouldn't go too deep. There's still plenty of thread in there afterwards.

B36A97E6-14EF-403E-9084-2DFACF358A1D.jpeg1980960C-3A95-4852-9B7D-D83FDFF83F9D.jpeg
 

Gerard

Well-known member
Premium Member
9/16 inches (14,3 mm) won't be enough.
The inside diameter of the bar (19 or 20 mm) would be necessary.
Drilling that diameter inside the bar would be hazardous.
And may be the bar won't allow that.
I went to the foam solution because I had it in my shop.
I'll be looking for another solution, may be having rubber tubes machined at the exact dimension.
 
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Urgefree

Active member
Elite Member
Very cool Gerard!

Just a thought: If you were to lengthen the distance between the end of the bar and the beginning of the thread inside the bar, would your turn signals be able to sit flush against the tube without the foam?

I used a 9/16th inch drill bit to bore the tube further. Added duct tape to the drill bit so I wouldn't go too deep. There's still plenty of thread in there afterwards.

View attachment 3421View attachment 3422
View attachment 3413

View attachment 3414

Then everything is sent back inside the bar to be invisible !

If you know where I could get male connector to fit in the BMW one let me know.

And the result :

The MO.BLAZE pin turn signal hold in place with the rubbered thread.
You must mind to orient it with the inside mirror reflecting the light to the front.

View attachment 3419

View attachment 3417

View attachment 3418

Oh! and YES ! It works ! :ROFLMAO:




EDIT : I realized from the pics that the amber covers were reverse oriented, and sent the light to the side!
And that I couldn't put them upside down because there's a protuberance imposing the position.
So I filed the protuberance and could set them the right way.
Everything is ok now 😚
Very very cool. Love the play by play. Perhaps dumb question but how did you pass wires through the bars
 

Gerard

Well-known member
Premium Member
The M8 screw is bored so there is no concern to pass thru it, the M12 thread inside the bar is opened at his end and the hole underneath the bar is big.
You just need to send the wire inside and take it back from the hole in the bar.
 

TodkaVonic

Well-known member
Elite Member
9/16 inches (14,3 mm) won't be enough.
The inside diameter of the bar (19 or 20 mm) would be necessary.
Drilling that diameter inside the bar would be hazardous.
And may be the bar won't allow that.
I went to the foam solution because I had it in my shop.
I'll be looking for another solution, may be having rubber tubes machined at the exact dimension.
Got it
 

Gilles

Well-known member
Premium Member
Very good job Gérard

I have ordered mines as well ; they are on the way and I will receive them next Monday

They seem similar to second ones you mentioned with narrower mounting rod

I will directly insert high luminosity leds inside

For the BMW connector, you find them Here




a7.44.81.10034259880FR0114.jpg
 

Slotheadslim

Active member
Site Supporter
Elite Member
Thanks HerrFarber! There's not a lot of information out there for fitting these signals to threaded bars and none at all that I could find if you chose to try it without an adapter. I kept seeing them on custom R18s though without mirrors, so clearly not that complicated. I'm digging the change and hope the thread helps someone with a similar (or maybe entirely dissimilar)
Thanks HerrFarber! There's not a lot of information out there for fitting these signals to threaded bars and none at all that I could find if you chose to try it without an adapter. I kept seeing them on custom R18s though without mirrors, so clearly not that complicated. I'm digging the change and hope the thread helps someone with a similar (or maybe entirely dissimilar) project.
I like the
Thanks HerrFarber! There's not a lot of information out there for fitting these signals to threaded bars and none at all that I could find if you chose to try it without an adapter. I kept seeing them on custom R18s though without mirrors, so clearly not that complicated. I'm digging the change and hope the thread helps someone with a similar (or maybe entirely dissimilar) project.
I
Thanks HerrFarber! There's not a lot of information out there for fitting these signals to threaded bars and none at all that I could find if you chose to try it without an adapter. I kept seeing them on custom R18s though without mirrors, so clearly not that complicated. I'm digging the change and hope the thread helps someone with a similar (or maybe entirely dissimilar) project.
TodkaVonic,

You did a great job. I really like the Motogadget mo.blaze disc. I think they would look great on my Classic.

2 questions.:

1. When you tested the lights did you still have the original lights connected? I’m wondering if the current draw of both the original lights and the Motogadget lights would kick off errors, especially if they are flashing?

2. Do you think the brightness of these lights plus the original directionals would be too much (too bright or distracting)?

I like the directionals on the Classic and would like to keep them but I think the Motogadget mo.blaze discs would dress up the bars.

Thanks,

Tom
 

TodkaVonic

Well-known member
Elite Member
TodkaVonic,

You did a great job. I really like the Motogadget mo.blaze disc. I think they would look great on my Classic.

2 questions.:

1. When you tested the lights did you still have the original lights connected? I’m wondering if the current draw of both the original lights and the Motogadget lights would kick off errors, especially if they are flashing?

2. Do you think the brightness of these lights plus the original directionals would be too much (too bright or distracting)?

I like the directionals on the Classic and would like to keep them but I think the Motogadget mo.blaze discs would dress up the bars.

Thanks,

Tom
Thanks Tom
I never had both a mo.blaze and an original light for the same side on at the same time, no. And yes, I agree that the draw would likely produce an error code.
Regarding distraction, I'm a big believer in being as conspicuous as possible on a motorcycle. The more distraction (aka attention) the better. Unfortunately, any benefit would be hard to reconcile with the displeasure produced by an error message, every ride, every day.
 

Gerard

Well-known member
Premium Member
Before starting any work I tried to connect the mini signal, using pins trough the wires, without disconnecting the OEM signal.
Had no error message, when one side on and hazard on.
By the way the + wire is blue ...
Unusual, even if it sports a tiny red line.
Anyway with LEDS misconnecting is not a problem.
 

Gilles

Well-known member
Premium Member
I already have a patent:
1.thread the 55mm M12 rod inside onto the M8.
2. Cut the ends in the HELLA "Ox Eye" and thread the hole on an M12.
3. through this hole screw the rod threaded inside for M8 into the steering wheel
4. Screw the HELLA "Ox Eye" onto the protruding rod 10-12mm
5.insert and screw inside the only steering wheel LED blinker that will fit there: Motogadget mo.blaze pin
etc.


It seems you have finalized your Bullseye project for the R18

https://holan.pl/14495/heritage-r18.jpg
Holan heritage-r18.jpg

Very nice job, please tell us more !

And what about the rear indicator, is it the Kellermann Bullet 1000 DF ? any problem to connect them ?
 

Gilles

Well-known member
Premium Member
Very cool Gerard!

Just a thought: If you were to lengthen the distance between the end of the bar and the beginning of the thread inside the bar, would your turn signals be able to sit flush against the tube without the foam?

I used a 9/16th inch drill bit to bore the tube further. Added duct tape to the drill bit so I wouldn't go too deep. There's still plenty of thread in there afterwards.

View attachment 3421View attachment 3422

I tried to enlarge the inner diameter with a 14mm HSS drill bit and to my surprise the tube is too hard.

What kind of drill bit did you use ?
 

TodkaVonic

Well-known member
Elite Member
I tried to enlarge the inner diameter with a 14mm HSS drill bit and to my surprise the tube is too hard.

What kind of drill bit did you use ?
C8CCDA66-79D0-4D3C-9FC6-FF66E76CA40B.jpeg

HSS as well. Still has the duct tape "guard" to keep it from plunging too far. It was slow but steady. Not sure why yours didn't work.
 

Gilles

Well-known member
Premium Member
HSS as well. Still has the duct tape "guard" to keep it from plunging too far. It was slow but steady. Not sure why yours didn't work.

Thanks TV, I don't understand either.
May be the min speed of my electric drill is too high, I will try again or buy a better drill bit
 
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