Battery Problems

M

MonsieurNiceGuy

Member
Visit site
Hey everyone,

So unfortunately I'm experiencing some battery problems with my R18 again. Basically I get the battery warning lights when I turn her on and she won't crank over without a jump. Bike is always on it's Tender (Noco Genius 10) when not in use, so I can't seem to understand why this issue is happening.

I had the first battery replaced a couple of months ago under warranty, and now the bike is experiencing the same issues again. At this point I'm definitely consider just swapping to an Antigravity lithium battery vs the AGM BMW provides with these.

You guys have any storage tips that I might have been missing so I don't encounter this happening again?
 
Have your dealer check your alternator (how many Volts does your display show when riding?) ... 2 times in such a short time is definitely not normal IMO.
On the other hand, I do not use any type of battery tender at all ... she is a daily rider .. but she did sit a couple months when it was frosty out ... I did not ever get a battery warning ... could it be your tender is over cooking the battery? What was the reason for replacing the 1st battery ... dead cell?
 
The didn't really give me the reason for the first battery, but I didn't think much of it then because I've heard that BMW batteries are not happy when they're not in use once a week .With the first I didn't ride her for about month due to the weather conditions around me at the time. It happened I went to go start her up and she didn't want to go. Jumped her rode her around for about 25-30miles at highway speeds, got some food while hanging out with buddies, went to start her, and yep needed a jump again. Next chance I got, took her to the dealer and they just swapped the battery out for a new one while doing the first service.

This time I took her out, she only hadn't been ridden for a little over a week, and been on the tender the entire time she wasn't being ridden. Gave her a jump and then rode her at speed for a while to get charged. Once I was finished and tried to start her up again, she didn't want to go.

I don't think the tender is over cooking the battery. I bought the Noco tender because the other tender (which they were also trying to sell me at the dealership) didn't seem like it was cutting it at keeping it charged.

I made an appoint to have her checked out next week, and hopefully the figure out what's going on.

Anyone else here experiencing any kind of battery issues?
Ulrich said:
Have your dealer check your alternator (how many Volts does your display show when riding?) ... 2 times in such a short time is definitely not normal IMO.
On the other hand, I do not use any type of battery tender at all ... she is a daily rider .. but she did sit a couple months when it was frosty out ... I did not ever get a battery warning ... could it be your tender is over cooking the battery? What was the reason for replacing the 1st battery ... dead cell?
Click to expand...
 
A quick easy way to test your alternator is to start the bike, and turn on the high beam and any other accessories that your bike might have; then, remove the negative or ground cable from your battery and see if the bike continues to run.

The alternator in theory should be able to support the electrical load of the bike, as well as charge the battery. If the bike stalls and or struggles to run smoothly, the alternator is undersized or isn't providing the necessary DC output.

If the above mentioned test goes well, I would be suspicious of the third party battery tender; I personally have had good luck with the two BMW branded battery tenders (older style from 2008 for GS Adventure & the latest smart charger for the 2022 R18 B), and if it should be a problem - it's one throat to choke warranty wise.
 
Last edited:
This is truly bizarre ... that 2 batteries in a row would do that. Riding the bike for 25 - 30miles (@ 1/2 hour or so) should at least charge the battery enough to guarantee a restart .. I have the feeling there might be an issue with your alternator ... what Scott says should give clarity ... what does your built in Voltage gage show? mine shows @ 14.2 - 14.5V when I ride.
 
I dropped it off at the dealer to have them take a look So far they said after replacing the battery again, it seems to be running fine. They plan on keeping it for a bit to double check electrical.
 
MonsieurNiceGuy said:
I dropped it off at the dealer to have them take a look So far they said after replacing the battery again, it seems to be running fine. They plan on keeping it for a bit to double check electrical.
Click to expand...
Maybe your voltage regulator is shot. This is a fuel injected bike, if the charging system or any of it's parts get cooked, the fuel pump will drain a battery very quickly, it draws a lot of current. Even in a 30 minute ride.
 
I'm hoping that I get an update from them here soon. Hopefully its something they can easily diagnose.

Pork Rind said:
Maybe your voltage regulator is shot. This is a fuel injected bike, if the charging system or any of it's parts get cooked, the fuel pump will drain a battery very quickly, it draws a lot of current. Even in a 30 minute ride.
Click to expand...
 
Just wanted to give you guys an update regarding the Battery situation.

So as I said before, they replaced the battery and everything seems to be running fine. After they conducted additional testing they couldn't see any signs of a parasitic draw that's running the battery down. I stated my concern that replacing the battery is what we did last time, so what are the next steps if this happens again? and their response is they'll replace the battery again.

Needless to say that response was pretty disappointing, especially since the service department from this dealer has been really great up until this point. That being said the folks there are very nice and friendly. The sales department has already assured me that if start loosing faith in the bike, they would work with me about getting me on a different one or something else.
 
Start pulling out one fuse at the time and sticking an Amp-Meter in there and seeing if something has an unusual draw? ... I mean there will be a few milliamps showing for clock, ecu and such .. but to have a completely dead battery, it must be something in a much higher range and that is quick and easy and should at least give you some idea ... just my 2¢ ;)

EDIT: what does your voltage reading on your dashboard say when you are riding? mine says 14.5V on the freeway
 
Pork Rind said:
Maybe your voltage regulator is shot. This is a fuel injected bike, if the charging system or any of it's parts get cooked, the fuel pump will drain a battery very quickly, it draws a lot of current. Even in a 30 minute ride.
Click to expand...
I'd check this first. The alternator is an integrated unit on this bike. Plus it's close to $1,500.00 :oops:.

If mine goes bad out of warranty, I'll just rewind the rotor myself! :ROFLMAO:.

Mike
 
Keehn said:
If mine goes bad out of warranty, I'll just rewind the rotor myself! :ROFLMAO:.

Mike
Click to expand...
... that can be done! ... never thought about it, the stator on Harleys is not that expensive ... so it never crossed my mind ... but $1500 holy $.it !!!! Yes definitely worth considering!

Good thinking!!
 
Alf said:
Have you got a tracker fitted?
Click to expand...
Anyway I can check for this on my bike? To my knowledge I don't think so but wouldn't hurt to check.
Noelpolar said:
My thoughts are... the "tender" is cooking your batteries.....
Click to expand...
I thought of that as well but they tested my tenders at the dealership and said that they were working fine.
Keehn said:
I'd check this first. The alternator is an integrated unit on this bike. Plus it's close to $1,500.00 :oops:.

If mine goes bad out of warranty, I'll just rewind the rotor myself! :ROFLMAO:.

Mike
Click to expand...
I'm hoping that they checked for that when they had the bike, because they did say that they did do additional testing outside of BMW recommendations to check for other potential causes.
 
If it weren't for the fact that it didn't recharge on the tender, it definitely points to a charging system problem.

When you had the battery on the tender, did the tender indicate that the battery was fully charged after a reasonable charging period?
 
This is a frustrating thread to read, lots of words with little information as to specifics. In general if one doesn't have competent trouble shooting knowledge and tools to make a proper methodical component by component and connection by connection checks I would advise not to guess especially while under warranty.

@Ulrich asked the same question multiple times about what the charging rate is on the display while riding so is there a reason this simple information can't be given? You are riding a very expensive "battery charger" (regardless any alternator or it's pricing) and as that is the primary way any battery gets recharged (regardless if OEM or any other type or brand considered for replacement) so the first and easiest test is to ensure the battery is "healthy" and charging output is to look at the instrument display and when turning on the ignition set it to show voltage. Note what it shows and watch it as you start the engine. It should drop and then come back up. My battery is rarely on a tender and even if I don't ride for 3-4 weeks time (rare, but usually 1-2 a year it happens), my bike(s) starts right up. With ignition on I see mid 12+ volts and the lowest after several weeks sitting was 12.3 volts and after the dip on start up it quickly returns to 14.3-14.5 volts with little deviation regardless idling at red light or any RPM range while riding.

Why would the sales department offer another bike? Electrical gremlins can be a tedious thing to track down, but based on what information is shared here it doesn't sound like other than a battery swop and a quick pat on her ass that not much more was done as I'm sure that is all that is needed "most times". How long is the interval between most of your rides and for how long do your rides last when you do take her out?
 
tommymck said:
If it weren't for the fact that it didn't recharge on the tender, it definitely points to a charging system problem.

When you had the battery on the tender, did the tender indicate that the battery was fully charged after a reasonable charging period?
Click to expand...

Tender did indicate the that the Battery was at full charge.

BobW said:
This is a frustrating thread to read, lots of words with little information as to specifics. In general if one doesn't have competent trouble shooting knowledge and tools to make a proper methodical component by component and connection by connection checks I would advise not to guess especially while under warranty.

@Ulrich asked the same question multiple times about what the charging rate is on the display while riding so is there a reason this simple information can't be given? You are riding a very expensive "battery charger" (regardless any alternator or it's pricing) and as that is the primary way any battery gets recharged (regardless if OEM or any other type or brand considered for replacement) so the first and easiest test is to ensure the battery is "healthy" and charging output is to look at the instrument display and when turning on the ignition set it to show voltage. Note what it shows and watch it as you start the engine. It should drop and then come back up. My battery is rarely on a tender and even if I don't ride for 3-4 weeks time (rare, but usually 1-2 a year it happens), my bike(s) starts right up. With ignition on I see mid 12+ volts and the lowest after several weeks sitting was 12.3 volts and after the dip on start up it quickly returns to 14.3-14.5 volts with little deviation regardless idling at red light or any RPM range while riding.

Why would the sales department offer another bike? Electrical gremlins can be a tedious thing to track down, but based on what information is shared here it doesn't sound like other than a battery swop and a quick pat on her ass that not much more was done as I'm sure that is all that is needed "most times". How long is the interval between most of your rides and for how long do your rides last when you do take her out?
Click to expand...

That was something that I forgot to check on my last little ride around the neighborhood to hear the exhaust I had put on.

Apologies for any frustrations that I maybe causing. I am one of those folks that unfortunately can't ride their bike whenever they would like and it sucks. Lately, I've only been able to take my bike out probably once every 3 weeks or so, and for short trips (15-20 minute rides), but I am planning on some more long rides here in the next couple of days. I haven't gotten a chance to take the bike out since the neighborhood ride to test the exhaust.
 
MonsieurNiceGuy said:
Tender did indicate the that the Battery was at full charge.



That was something that I forgot to check on my last little ride around the neighborhood to hear the exhaust I had put on.

Apologies for any frustrations that I maybe causing. I am one of those folks that unfortunately can't ride their bike whenever they would like and it sucks. Lately, I've only been able to take my bike out probably once every 3 weeks or so, and for short trips (15-20 minute rides), but I am planning on some more long rides here in the next couple of days. I haven't gotten a chance to take the bike out since the neighborhood ride to test the exhaust.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the additional info and please share the display readings when you get a chance as they will be very helpful. We're all making a "swag" at best as we aren't able to be hands on so the clearer the circumstances are understood the better the suggestions can be.

A couple thoughts in no particular order that may or may not have any relevance.

A battery should be fully charged prior to being installed and/or tested (although "close enough" is likely very common). A "tender" is not a "charger", tenders help maintain a healthy battery that is not discharged and while some of the new "smart" devices claim to "do it all" a tender can show "OK" when there really is only a surface charge so a proper load test is required to confirm a battery really is healthy. As another post mentioned, it would be crazy odds to have two new-bad batteries, but a proper test is always required regardless how long it's been in service to eliminate that possibility.

As to time between rides it doesn't seem like "3 weeks or so" should be this problematic unless your estimate is way off. Anecdotally I wouldn't think this is a root cause as I live where the winter weather can keep me from riding that long a time period and with my bikes parked in an unheated garage with no tender in low single digits (f) with highs in the low 20s-30s they have all fired right up when asked (and this is with Italian, British, American and German electronics).

When you do ride for approximately 15 minutes after "long" intervals it may not be sufficient for the charging system to recover and fully charge the battery (and in cold temps not even enough time to fully cook off contaminates in the oil, but that's a whole different topic). However, the 15 minutes should not be an issue per se, if the battery was healthy when your tender was properly hooked up after a ride while awaiting the next one. So after the shop completes the battery and the system is checked as good or it is corrected the next item is the tender. Is it working properly and is it being properly attached so the battery is actually being maintained? I'm not familiar with your tender, but they all work and attach pretty much the same and verifying it is properly attached and functioning should be as easy as can be so I would bring it to the shop with your bike to see if they would choose to eliminate it as a factor as part of the trouble shooting.

That said, riding more often than not is always better for one's mental health, keeping the battery charged and fresh petrol in her tank, it's the responsible thing to do ;)
 
Last edited:
No worries. I took the bike out today around town and the freeway a bit, and the display when riding her around was at a constant 14.4 Volts. I honestly forgot what the starting voltage was as I forgot to check it, apologies.

The tender I'm using is a charge/tender/maintainer kind, so once its done charging or if it detects the battery is full it turns into a tender. It's from Noco who make some great products regarding batteries and the like. The service department did end up checking out both chargers that I have and said they were working fine and with no issues.

Oh and most definitely riding has been great for my mental health.

On a different note, has anyone experienced an issue where the brake lights and daytime running lights do not turn off despite the bike being off?

BobW said:
Thanks for the additional info and please share the display readings when you get a chance as they will be very helpful. We're all making a "swag" at best as we aren't able to be hands on so the clearer the circumstances are understood the better the suggestions can be.

A couple thoughts in no particular order that may or may not have any relevance.

A battery should be fully charged prior to being installed and/or tested (although "close enough" is likely very common). A "tender" is not a "charger", tenders help maintain a healthy battery that is not discharged and while some of the new "smart" devices claim to "do it all" a tender can show "OK" when there really is only a surface charge so a proper load test is required to confirm a battery really is healthy. As another post mentioned, it would be crazy odds to have two new-bad batteries, but a proper test is always required regardless how long it's been in service to eliminate that possibility.

As to time between rides it doesn't seem like "3 weeks or so" should be this problematic unless your estimate is way off. Anecdotally I wouldn't think this is a root cause as I live where the winter weather can keep me from riding that long a time period and with my bikes parked in an unheated garage with no tender in low single digits (f) with highs in the low 20s-30s they have all fired right up when asked (and this is with Italian, British, American and German electronics).

When you do ride for approximately 15 minutes after "long" intervals it may not be sufficient for the charging system to recover and fully charge the battery (and in cold temps not even enough time to fully cook off contaminates in the oil, but that's a whole different topic). However, the 15 minutes should not be an issue per se, if the battery was healthy when your tender was properly hooked up after a ride while awaiting the next one. So after the shop completes the battery and the system is checked as good or it is corrected the next item is the tender. Is it working properly and is it being properly attached so the battery is actually being maintained? I'm not familiar with your tender, but they all work and attach pretty much the same and verifying it is properly attached and functioning should be as easy as can be so I would bring it to the shop with your bike to see if they would choose to eliminate it as a factor as part of the trouble shooting.

That said, riding more often than not is always better for one's mental health, keeping the battery charged and fresh petrol in her tank, it's the responsible thing to do ;)
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top