Bleeding the clutch

[prankenandi]

Hello,

I've to bleed the clutch. (I broke the "clutch"-line at the handlebar.)

Has anyone done it already?

I need to now where the slave cylinder is for proper bleeding?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

 

[Black Dog]

Use a smaller hammer next time.

 

[R18Art]

Buy a mitavac. This is a great tool to have in your toolbox. Great for bleeding clutches and brake systems quickly...

 

[Black Dog]

Hello,

I've to bleed the clutch. (I broke the "clutch"-line at the handlebar.)

Has anyone done it already?

I need to now where the slave cylinder is for proper bleeding?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

The clutch slave cylinder appears be located on the rear of the transmission
The slave cylinder bleed valve is item 7 and 8 in Figure #2.
The clutch is operated through the main shaft item 4 figure #1 using the pin shaft 10 figure #2.
From the looks of it the rear wheel a stub fender will need to be removed to access the bleed valve.
I have the the wheel and stub fender removed from my R18 fabricating mounting hardware.
Currently in the final fitting of the seat and custom bobber fender and will confirm the location with photos in the next couple of days.
Went back thrugh my pictures, looks like the slave cylinder is behind the battery box.



Figure #1

Figure #2

 

[TodkaVonic]

The installation instructions for the beach bars include replacing the existing brake and clutch lines with longer versions. I went through it all just now (curiosity mostly, and looking for formal bleed instructions because you asked and I didn't know) and the bleeding procedure for the clutch appears to be remarkably simple.

You don't need to loosen any valves or attach any tubes, no, just fill the reservoir and pump the lever. Here:





After hunting for the valve (it's entirely inaccessible), I'm really happy with this process. Hope this helps.

/like Black Dog said, it's in there

 

[R18Art]

When "venting" from the top when the valve is unaccessible. I usually don't fill the res, I move the bars side to side, I squeeze the line if it's rubber. I will also leave it overnight with the lid on to let it vent on it's own. Usually works well!

 

[MilwDave]

The installation instructions for the beach bars include replacing the existing brake and clutch lines with longer versions. I went through it all just now (curiosity mostly, and looking for formal bleed instructions because you asked and I didn't know) and the bleeding procedure for the clutch appears to be remarkably simple.

You don't need to loosen any valves or attach any tubes, no, just fill the reservoir and pump the lever. Here:


View attachment 2311

View attachment 2312

After hunting for the valve (it's entirely inaccessible), I'm really happy with this process. Hope this helps.

/like Black Dog said, it's in there
View attachment 2313View attachment 2314

I am in the garage venting the clutch cylinder right now. I am following the instructions from the beach bar install sheet. This method did seem odd at first but it does work.
Be advised it takes some time, I’ve been pumping for a half hour now. It helps to tilt the bike from side to side occasionally.

 

[sjeuf12]

The installation instructions for the beach bars include replacing the existing brake and clutch lines with longer versions. I went through it all just now (curiosity mostly, and looking for formal bleed instructions because you asked and I didn't know) and the bleeding procedure for the clutch appears to be remarkably simple.

You don't need to loosen any valves or attach any tubes, no, just fill the reservoir and pump the lever. Here:


View attachment 2311
View attachment 2312

After hunting for the valve (it's entirely inaccessible), I'm really happy with this process. Hope this helps.

/like Black Dog said, it's in there
View attachment 2313View attachment 2314

would this also work for the front brakes hydraulics?? and Where did you find that manual??

 

[MilwDave]

would this also work for the front brakes hydraulics?? and Where did you find that manual??

Yes it did, and quite frankly I’m shocked how well it worked. The brake lever is rock firm.
I’ve never done either using this method before but it appears to work fine.

 

[sjeuf12]

Yes it did, and quite frankly I’m shocked how well it worked. The brake lever is rock firm.
I’ve never done either using this method before but it appears to work fine.

well, one is never too old to learn a new trick... I am assuming that a certain upward angle to the pump/reservoir is needed... in case of the rear break hydraulics that could be an issue then? or??

 

[MilwDave]

You need to turn the bars and possibly shim the side stand to level the reservoirs.
The R18 has a linked brake system so I would assume the rear brake would operate the same.

 

[D04011]

Just something else for consideration that may be applicable to the R18 clutch system. On my K1600 Grand America, the OEM mineral oil-based fluid (versus the usual DOT 4) in the clutch is considered "permanent" and never needs to be changed unless necessaary when working on the clutch system. I haven't picked up my R18 so I don't have the owners manual to check.

It really surprised me the BMW said it was permanent on the recent K1600s since it is the first bike I've ever had that you didn't have to periodically change the clutch fluid. Perhaps somebody can check the R18 manual and verify! Thanks in advance!

 

[2021FE]

Just something else for consideration that may be applicable to the R18 clutch system. On my K1600 Grand America, the OEM mineral oil-based fluid (versus the usual DOT 4) in the clutch is considered "permanent" and never needs to be changed unless necessaary when working on the clutch system. I haven't picked up my R18 so I don't have the owners manual to check.

It really surprised me the BMW said it was permanent on the recent K1600s since it is the first bike I've ever had that you didn't have to periodically change the clutch fluid. Perhaps somebody can check the R18 manual and verify! Thanks in advance!

While at the BMW Motorrad dealership this Friday August 18th, 2023 picking up maintenance items for my R18’s I asked the very competent parts associate if the clutch used the same DOT 4 as the brake system because I had scoured the manual and no specification was given and the clutch reservoir at the handlebars doesn’t have a sight glass. He pulled out a very small bottle containing a dark blue liquid and said this is what they are using in the clutch hydraulics. He said unless your changing handlebars/lines it is designed to last the lifetime of the motorcycle. He also noted that IF you ever remove the reservoir cover be prepared for a mess.

 

[MilwDave]

Yes, the clutch uses mineral oil. No removing the cover does not create a mess unless you do not level it.
I used the BMW fluid when I swapped out my handlebars. It’s fairly inexpensive as BMW branded items go.

 

[0x0000000e76]

While at the BMW Motorrad dealership this Friday August 18th, 2023 picking up maintenance items for my R18’s I asked the very competent parts associate if the clutch used the same DOT 4 as the brake system because I had scoured the manual and no specification was given and the clutch reservoir at the handlebars doesn’t have a sight glass. He pulled out a very small bottle containing a dark blue liquid and said this is what they are using in the clutch hydraulics. He said unless your changing handlebars/lines it is designed to last the lifetime of the motorcycle. He also noted that IF you ever remove the reservoir cover be prepared for a mess.

So; no need to change those fluids unless necessary?