Designing and 3D print additional wind deflector to fit R18

Deuillevent

Deuillevent

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Hey Guys

I am currently thinking about designing some "wind deflectors" to fit on a R18 Roctane, inspired by TC wind deflector design.

I saw official references for these TC left and right wind deflector parts.
I was pleasantly surprised to discover this was not a single part deflector but at least three main parts on each side of the TC (plus small nuts and bolts for assembly).

So... this can be 3D printed then assembled.

Even using a rather "small" 3D printer, parts up to 25cm can be printed.
To have a sturdy/tougher final larger part, assembly has to be carefully designed so that when assembled (here come nuts and bolts) the final part will not be shaky.
Obviously it will be necessary to make several prototypes.

Regarding impact and heat resistant, usual 3D printing material cannot be used (except for prototypes).
Final parts will be printed using a Nylon+carbon fiber compound.
This compound can sustain higher temperature (150°c). Price is around 70$ for 1kg spool. Maybe up to 2 spools to print everything.

I see BMW parts are in ABS which might have a lower heat resistance.
But they are not printed.

Final painting by local body shop will still be necessary to have a nicer pro finish (estimated around 300$).

In another thread, I've read comments regarding the official BMW wind deflectors for TC. Some people commented that parts could have benefit for improvements: small space storage, speakers, hidden storage (nice place to hide an Apple tag), even fans, etc... Could be interesting, maybe in a "v2" révision.

Currently a RoadStyle crash bar will be used as a basis to "attach" these parts.
Progress will be posted there.

Ideas... suggestions... warnings... are welcomed.
 
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I don't see any issue with using nylonCF as a base material, so long as your infill is 80% or greater with a wall layer of at least 5.

For finish, dipping or painting on liquid resin (type used in resin printers) and cure in layers while sanding/wet-sanding in between, until the surface is smooth.

At that point, then your final product is ready for primer and paint. Then, it should look like it came from the factory.

Edit: What 3D printer are you using?

Mike
 
Hello

Thank you for the tips to harden the part!!!
I'm using a Prusa mk4 with obsidian nozzle and I still wait for the Prusa XL (which has a larger bed).

The finishing of the printed piece will be done by a local body shop that typically works on fairly standard automotive parts.
Nice finish requires techniques... I obviously don't have.
And... they can paint using the official BMW color code.

If I manage to keep the nylon dry (I have a heater) the part should be quite smooth (or at least require some sanding as you mentioned).
Maybe the body shop do the sanding...

In the past I used to create 3D printed mechanical parts but nothing for automotive/biles yet.
But the design process might be similar:
  • The design has to be resistant to chocks, vibrations and heats
  • The part has to be securely and firmly fixed on the bar
  • The assembled part must not vibrate (or could use some intergrated dampers)
    So the design process must includes some nults and bolts that won't move once assembled.
I found some schematics that show the TransContinental lower wind deflectors parts.
We can see:
  • a single deflector is composed of 3 main parts (#2, #4 and #6)
    • Part #6 and #2 could be replaced by a single body part.
    • Part #4 (front) looks smaller
    • But the final part will be composed of smaller parts (because of limited printer bed size: 25cm).
  • internal parts #8 and #10 will somehow "clamp" the bar.
    The printed design should include different size "clamps" to accomodate protection bar fitted with different diameters
    (I suppose RoadyStyler with its 30mm steel pipes are wider than Wunderlish crash bars).
1706043481994.png

Currently I don't know the real dimensions of the TC wind deflectors, so I can only guess.
But this is something that can be modified during the design process.
(if someone can measure it I would greatly appreciate)



In the past I used to make complicated design from scratch.
Below example is NOT a gun: it's a tequila glass dispenser shaped like a barrel.
Another eample is a large WW2 talkie walkee replica that was quite large than the print bed.
It was far larger than the print bed...

I also created a fake NOS system and published it here.
Pretty sure I could adapt it easily to fit on the R18 somewhere.

EARLY UPDATE
First (very) basic draft

1706176218192.png



Comments still welcomed, gentlemen.
 
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Very impressed by the project. I use a Bambu lab for 3D and I have a r18 roctane in France with crash bar. Very interested by the project to test. See you for next progress and information . Sorry for ma bad English langage :(
 
I'm attaching pictures of my Lower Leg Wind Protection pieces; which is separated prior to me having them painted, the inner pieces are designed for securing the wind protection to the engine protection bar. The wind protection is secured at the very bottom, which is a threaded screw anchor point at the base of the engine protection bar.

Perhaps consider adding LED lighting into your wind protection design, similar to what HD does on their lower fairing; I think LED lighting would look pretty cool.

I'll look to see if I have any pictures of the anchoring pieces in order to give you some ideas; I do remember a rubber surface insert in order to grip the protection bar and probably reduce or damping vibration and such to the Lower Leg Wind Protection pieces.

Screenshot_20240130-062705.pngScreenshot_20240130-064532.pngScreenshot_20240130-064516.pngScreenshot_20240130-064413.pngScreenshot_20240130-064356.png
 
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Scott you are awesome. Thank you.
Your pics are far more helpful than the very small diagram I have!

Question for Scott:
Can you tell me the size (height and width) of part #2 please?
(I think the one I created with Fusion360 is too tall... almost 60cm )

I was thinking about including various options to the design:
  • additional front lights
  • front position LED light
  • front position daylight LED (as an example: Philips LED DayLight 9)
  • waterproof or marine-grade 12V USB charger socket
  • prepare some space to allow electrical connection to the bike.
The challenge in designing this piece lies in the need to consider multiple aspects simultaneously.
It is necessary to first think about the final appearance, ensuring that the piece is sturdy enough to withstand the vibrations of the motorcycle.
Additionally, one must consider the aesthetic aspect, the feasibility of printing, and the assembly method.
Furthermore, it is important to take into account the possibility that the piece may have a bad or negative impact on aerodynamics, presenting another challenge to address.

I think I have already found a solution for the part that will encase the piece on the crash bar.
(Other parts of the design will be fixed to that part).
However, adjustments may be necessary in real-world conditions.

I know I cannot print parts identical to BMW parts (mostly due to printer bed size).
From to to bottom, it will be a multipart assembly, when the BMW part is mostly an "horizontal" assembly.

I will post some updates here.

Regards
 
pluzet said:
Very impressed by the project. I use a Bambu lab for 3D and I have a r18 roctane in France with crash bar. Very interested by the project to test. See you for next progress and information . Sorry for ma bad English langage :(
Click to expand...
I will post some updates in that post.

If you have any questions, or even comments, feel free to put them here.
You know, I wanted to print the 'Space Filler' for the Roctane, which goes between the motorcycle and the saddlebags?
(Fairly easy to do, in two parts).

In french
Si tu as des questions, ou même des commentaires, n'hésite pas à les mettre ici.
Tu sais que je voulais imprimer le "Space Filler" de la Roctane, qui se mettent entre la moto et les "sacoches".
(plutôt facile à faire, en deux parties).
 
I think the ROCTANE case filler panel kit was only $179 USD from Max BMW; that might be worth buying vs printing. I would imagine you'll need a fairly large print table to produce the pieces...?

Plus, the kit includes pieces already painted and matched to my bike's black color; and don't forget about the free bag of M&Ms.. 🤓

Screenshot_20240130-095005.png
 
Scott Semone said:
I think the ROCTANE case filler panel kit was only $179 USD from Max BMW; that might be worth buying vs printing. I would imagine you'll need a fairly large print table to produce the pieces...?

Plus, the kit includes pieces already painted and matched to my bike's black color; and don't forget about the free bag of M&Ms.. 🤓
Click to expand...
I have also ordered that part.
Paid 116 € for them.
Will have to add 80€ for painting (Mineral Grey) at a local body shop.

No M&M's delicatessen in the box :).

1706628609275.png
 
Scott Semone said:
I'm attaching pictures of my Lower Leg Wind Protection pieces; which is separated prior to me having them painted, the inner pieces are designed for securing the wind protection to the engine protection bar. The wind protection is secured at the very bottom, which is a threaded screw anchor point at the base of the engine protection bar.

Perhaps consider adding LED lighting into your wind protection design, similar to what HD does on their lower fairing; I think LED lighting would look pretty cool.

I'll look to see if I have any pictures of the anchoring pieces in order to give you some ideas; I do remember a rubber surface insert in order to grip the protection bar and probably reduce or damping vibration and such to the Lower Leg Wind Protection pieces.

View attachment 13000View attachment 13001View attachment 13002View attachment 13003View attachment 13004
Click to expand...
Hey Scott, I am impressed w the brain storming from experts in design and printing on this forum!! During everyone’s leisure, can you gentlemen design a clear deflector on top edge of the R18 BMW Motorrad medium windshield? The current height is ideal because my line of sight is above the top edge. Looking thru plexiglass is like being under water. Maybe a 1-2” curved top edge glued or screwed on??

Also on another idea. Design some kind of ABS skid pad to mount on the bottom of the cylinder head covers in case of an accidental drop. This can certainly avoid the added weight and cost of the crash bar! Thoughts?
 
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