Exhaust Flapper Valve Servo/Cables Removal

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Cornel

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Does anyone have a link to instructions/video on how to remove the exhaust flapper valve cables and servos?

I would like to tackle this, but some instructions would be very helpful. I have searched and in theory these are the steps:

-- Remove the cover over the valve spring and cable connectors
-- Loosen the cable adjusting nuts
-- Remove the cables from the valve
-- Remove the wire connectors from the servos
-- Remove the one screw holding the servos to the frame
-- Remove the cables and servos
-- Install the Servo Buddy modules (2) to replace the servos in order to prevent a code to be thrown

I know these should be the steps, but if someone who has done it could write a step by step document and/or a video with any tips and tricks, lessons learned, etc. would be very helpful.

Thank You!
 
It’s literally a 30 minute job, maybe less.
Get under the bike and look at the assembly. The steps you list are exactly the what you are asking for. No one is going to make videos for simple tasks.
 
MilwDave said:
It’s literally a 30 minute job, maybe less.
Get under the bike and look at the assembly. The steps you list are exactly the what you are asking for. No one is going to make videos for simple tasks.
Click to expand...
Any tips in removing the wire connectors as far as locking tabs? After the one screw holding the servos is removed, does the servo assembly slide in any particular direction? Any other tips you can share?


Thank You!
 
MilwDave said:
It’s literally a 30 minute job, maybe less.
Get under the bike and look at the assembly. The steps you list are exactly the what you are asking for. No one is going to make videos for simple tasks.
Click to expand...
Agreed... Definitely less than 30 min.; search "servo" on the forum, I posted something with pictures and required tools needed to complete the job. Your steps basically cover it.
 
I just recently removed the cables and the entire servo module; it took all of 10 min. Probably easiest to remove the cable anchors from the flap pivot point; there is torx screw which holds a plastic cover over the flap mechanism; once removed, you can manipulate the cable into the slot and then pull the anchor free.

Not sure if removing the cables will generate an error code? Perhaps there is some sort of expected feedback that the servo module is looking for?

Might be worth getting two Servo Buddy modules in order to suppress any error codes? Might as well remove the servo module as well (reduced weight)?

If I can find any pictures, I'll post them.. the attached pictures are a great example of what I was describing (Thank you); I marked up the picture with RED dots.

Loosen the two nuts used to adjust the cable tension, that will provide enough slack in the cable to remove it off of the wheel guide, then manipulate the cable into the slot in order to free the anchor entirely.

Screenshot_20230615-155401.png
 
When I did the exhaust flap/servo ectomy, the spring on the right side was not functioning. A metal tab had slipped off the spring. There wasn't work room to reattach the uncoiled spring so I removed it and used some baling wire to hold the flapper open.
The black plastic cover is back on so one can't see the spring failure.
 
This might help some people:

https://www.r1800wiki.org/en/2024/05/12/klappensteuerung-auspuff/
The exhaust is dismantled so that you can clearly see the flaps in the manifold. It is important to understand that the flap position ensures compliance with legal regulations at certain speeds. This is not always consistent with the sound. The following measurement was taken in rock mode.

Unfortunately, closing the flap 100% for noise reasons (at the push of a button) is not possible, as there is then no secondary channel for the exhaust gases.

When the engine is switched off, the flap is 100% open.

When the engine is on, the flap is 100% open when the gear is not engaged.

When 1st gear is engaged, the flap goes to 50%.

The flap position remains at 60% up to approx. 50 km/h and gradually opens to 100% at 100 km/h and faster.

This means that there is no sound improvement when idling, but only in the 1-100 km/h range.

Basically you can simply try out the sound image. You simply unplug the controller. An error message appears in the speedometer, but the flap remains 100% open.

1715589266410.png

Take a test drive and ignore the red indicator lights. After the test, put the plugs back on and drive a little. The lamps go out again.

The following solution is therefore ONLY to turn off the red indicator lights. The sound no longer changes.

2 x Healtech Exhaust Flaps Servo Eliminator ESE-BM1

OR

2 x Servo Buddy BMW 2010-2024 (the S1000RR module also fits the R18)

Installation takes less than 10 minutes

1715589385880.png

  • Ignition off
  • Disconnect both plugs from the servo motor (the servo motors are located under the motorcycle directly in front of the rear tire, on the outside. Where the two wires go towards the flap, there is nothing more than these two cables. See the blue marking in the photo.
  • Connect modules to the cables and fasten them there with cable ties -> see blue arrow in the photo.
  • Now close the open connections on the motors with the blind plugs.
Complete. Below are example pictures of how some drivers installed the eliminators.

1715589437087.png

1715589180702.png
 
That’s great thank you widu13. My servo has recently developed an intermittent squeak, when I select first gear there is an audible ‘chirp’ coming from that area, which ties in perfectly with what you’ve described, I can’t for the life of me think what else it could be so I’ve decided to remove the blasted thing. I’ve literally just ordered two Healtech servo eliminators and they should arrive maybe later this week.
 
Saves money to not buy the servo buddies, but having those units under there pulling on cables seems like stupid overkill. Make no mistake I love my R18 but German engineering sometimes goes off the rails.
 
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