laennecr
Active member
Sharing tips in case anyone else tackles this so you can learn from my mistakes. My 2022 Classic right fork seal was leaking. Having 2 kids in college ($$$$) I decided to save $500 and replace them myself.
Tools and supplies needed:
24mm crowfoot wrench and breaker bar - to remove the actual cap on the fork.
12mm long allen socket (at least 6 inches/15cm) to remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork.
Torx 55 socket for the fork sealing cap. Mine were torqued with the force of 20 elephants and required an incredible amount of force to remove. They used red thread locker or maybe crazy glue.
Torx 60 socket for the top triple tree nut - in case you need to reset the triple tree angle to re-fit the forks.
Solid work bench/table with large vice attached to said table. I don't have this.
BWM fork seal service kit (at $103, you need 2, very pricy but you get all you need): https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=61791&rnd=10232024.
I'm seeking a more economical option through SKF 49mm seals at $39 each: https://www.speedaddicts.com/motorc...d2AXQ70w9DtNsKxg5pRPkE3ZsVlO4ID5HbRh_Johz5oTI
I used 2 liters of Bel-Ray 20wt fork oil. Reasonably priced ($17 per liter) and recommended by some reputable local mechanics. BMW oil is $55 per liter, again you need 2 liters.
Most of the procedure can be found here: https://manuals.bmw-motorrad.com/ma...1DA16_Abschlka_Gabhol_unte_0L21_01_202010.pdf
* To remove the fork cap, I used the lower triple tree to secure the fork and since I did not have the 24mm crowfoot wrench with a breaker bar and my 24mm spanner/wrench would not give me enough leverage i used a pipe wrench. It scarred the bolt, but it came off eventually. Don't skip back day at the gym; you will need those muscles. This is where the solid work bench would be nice.
Disassembly is straight forward just lay the parts out as they come out of the fork and reverse the order going back in. I used an 120mm air gap when adding the oil to the forks. Started with 800ml in 400ml increments, pumping the fork up and down to remove access air then after measure the air gap and add some extra to get to 120mm.
* To put the fork cap back on have a second person apply downward pressure on the fork cap bolt using a 2x4 or similar piece of wood to spread out the force needed. Screw the fork tube onto the threads.
Torque valves can be found on the web however the main ones needed are attached in the document. I used the lower triple tree again to re-torque the fork caps. Since I was using the lower triple tree as a vice when reinstalling the forks I had to re-align the triple tree, that's where the T-60 comes in so you can loosen the top triple tree clamp bolt and re-align it with the fork tubes. PM if you need more information and good luck to us all.
Tools and supplies needed:
24mm crowfoot wrench and breaker bar - to remove the actual cap on the fork.
12mm long allen socket (at least 6 inches/15cm) to remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork.
Torx 55 socket for the fork sealing cap. Mine were torqued with the force of 20 elephants and required an incredible amount of force to remove. They used red thread locker or maybe crazy glue.
Torx 60 socket for the top triple tree nut - in case you need to reset the triple tree angle to re-fit the forks.
Solid work bench/table with large vice attached to said table. I don't have this.
BWM fork seal service kit (at $103, you need 2, very pricy but you get all you need): https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=61791&rnd=10232024.
I'm seeking a more economical option through SKF 49mm seals at $39 each: https://www.speedaddicts.com/motorc...d2AXQ70w9DtNsKxg5pRPkE3ZsVlO4ID5HbRh_Johz5oTI
I used 2 liters of Bel-Ray 20wt fork oil. Reasonably priced ($17 per liter) and recommended by some reputable local mechanics. BMW oil is $55 per liter, again you need 2 liters.
Most of the procedure can be found here: https://manuals.bmw-motorrad.com/ma...1DA16_Abschlka_Gabhol_unte_0L21_01_202010.pdf
* To remove the fork cap, I used the lower triple tree to secure the fork and since I did not have the 24mm crowfoot wrench with a breaker bar and my 24mm spanner/wrench would not give me enough leverage i used a pipe wrench. It scarred the bolt, but it came off eventually. Don't skip back day at the gym; you will need those muscles. This is where the solid work bench would be nice.
Disassembly is straight forward just lay the parts out as they come out of the fork and reverse the order going back in. I used an 120mm air gap when adding the oil to the forks. Started with 800ml in 400ml increments, pumping the fork up and down to remove access air then after measure the air gap and add some extra to get to 120mm.
* To put the fork cap back on have a second person apply downward pressure on the fork cap bolt using a 2x4 or similar piece of wood to spread out the force needed. Screw the fork tube onto the threads.
Torque valves can be found on the web however the main ones needed are attached in the document. I used the lower triple tree again to re-torque the fork caps. Since I was using the lower triple tree as a vice when reinstalling the forks I had to re-align the triple tree, that's where the T-60 comes in so you can loosen the top triple tree clamp bolt and re-align it with the fork tubes. PM if you need more information and good luck to us all.
