Jump Start

TheMadMax

TheMadMax

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I just figured out that the cables of my jump starter are too short for the R18.
Normally they goes right on top of the battery, but for the R18 the manual suggest to use the provided connections:
negative under the right cylinder, positive behind the right side cover.
What if I connect the negative in any other point of the bike, like the frame ?
It should be at ground.
Theoretically it should work, but anybody had some experience with this situation ?
 
TheMadMax said:
I just figured out that the cables of my jump starter are too short for the R18.
Normally they goes right on top of the battery, but for the R18 the manual suggest to use the provided connections:
negative under the right cylinder, positive behind the right side cover.
What if I connect the negative in any other point of the bike, like the frame ?
It should be at ground.
Theoretically it should work, but anybody had some experience with this situation ?
Click to expand...
Ground/Earth at any reachable spot should be fine, but I would not attach to the frame as a first choice as the paint would likely be damaged trying to make "good" connections.

What kind of jump start set up are you using? The span from from the "+" lug under the side cover to the engine for a "-" connection is a very short distance. I would test if connecting to a cooling fin closer to the side cover to see if that would suffice, but likely I would source an extension that may be available or simply splice in my own length(s) of proper gauge wire or.........

Lastly and easiest would be to take the few minutes to install a battery tender style lead and then any number of components could easily be attached from battery chargers to heated gear, etc.

Click here for examples
 
Beware of advice when it comes to doing what you want to do. The bike electronics are spendy.

I did something similar with my dual sport for middle of nowhere off-road travel. No way to always have a way to jump in the woods.

So buy the right sized cables seen in the link. Normal charging cables are not good. Then buy a booster pack and mate it up with an ec5 male connection.

Regrettably I can’t remember the portable unit I used, it had a cable connection like the one in the link. But any one with the required ccA is fine.

Can be hidden very well. https://www.amazon.com/AYECEHI-Term...c99998f5b41f3fe5a80799fe7372bdbf&gad_source=1
 
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BobW said:
@Gr8adv

"Beware of advice when it comes to doing what you want to do. The bike electronics are speedy."

Was bad advise given?
Click to expand...
No idea. I am not responding to any of the posts other than the OP. Just that they be wary of the answers one receives when the cost of failure is high. That’s all.

Sometimes questions like this can get mis understood by the responder. For example, charging wires vs cables for a couple hundred CCA required for jumping is knowledge sometimes not understood by all.

In internet Forums all written words are read with the same level of confidence. Be it great stuff, made up shite, opinions based on something, or nothing at all.

My advice, take it for what it is worth, is to do your homework and stay arms length away from potential issues including, but not limited to shorting and small fires.

I addressed cable issues and hopefully pointed him in the direction of portable jumpers. If the jumper is going to stay in his garage, then the jumper box choices are limitless. Cable size still applicable either way.

Ride on.
 
I've had to jump start a buddy's HD Road Glide on our group's first ride of 2024; my R18 Model B was deemed as the easiest jump source in terms of accessing the jump terminals, amongst our group's bike selection (I'm the only non-HD rider in our group).

We had to remove my buddy's seat and such in order to access the dead battery (+) positive terminal on the HD Road Glide; I was easily able to jump the bike using standard battery jump cables, with the (+) Positive Jump Terminal Lug which is visible and accessible without disassembling my R18, as well as utilizing the (-) Negative Jump Terminal Lug underneath the cylinder head.

For me at least, why would I do it any differently than what is recommended in the manufacturer's owners manual. Keep in mind, the amperage required to turn the starter motor of the dead HD, is also flowing through the ground connection; you don't want to electrically overstress any of the electronic equipment on the jump bike, if for some reason the path to ground was to use the ground of any sensitive electronics.

Easy Peezy..!!
 
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To be honest... I've gone through my entire life without needing to carry a jump starter in any of my vehicles and or bikes; if you take care of you bike and the associated maintenance - with a little luck, you won't ever need that gadget...

You'll know when your battery needs replacement... I ride with HD guys, so I basically carry a light duty pair of jumper cables that doesn't take up any real space in my side case... I find I'm jumping other folks, rather than needing to be jumped... Plus, there's always the pushing and popping the clutch method...
 
Deleted Member 1618 said:
To be honest... I've gone through my entire life without needing to carry a jump starter in any of my vehicles and or bikes; if you take care of you bike and the associated maintenance - with a little luck, you won't ever need that gadget...

You'll know when your battery needs replacement... I ride with HD guys, so I basically carry a light duty pair of jumper cables that doesn't take up any real space in my side case... I find I'm jumping other folks, rather than needing to be jumped... Plus, there's always the pushing and popping the clutch method...
Click to expand...
Yes, I agree with you, after few bikes and few hundred thousand kilometers with them it happened only once,
with the Yamaha Road*, but it happened because the alternator was gone, without any significant notice.
At some point the battery had not enough juice to start up.

The alternator went bad also on the HD, but in that case a fault came up on the dash, so I was able to recover before running out of (electric) juice.
After these events I thought it would be nice to be prepared...

About the pushing method, I'm not sure if the modern electronics can let that happen.
Besides that I feel that the 300+ Kg of the bike can be another difficulty... personally speaking!
 
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