Mass Frustration

Wouldn’t be the case that the fluid in the hydrologic system is not enough or there is an air pocket and therefore there is not sufficient pressure to activate the clutch? Maybe even the wrong viscosity can have an impact. As we know, in order to fire the engine the clutch lever needs to be pressed. Just guessing.
 
Anibal said:
Wouldn’t be the case that the fluid in the hydrologic system is not enough or there is an air pocket and therefore there is not sufficient pressure to activate the clutch? Maybe even the wrong viscosity can have an impact. As we know, in order to fire the engine the clutch lever needs to be pressed. Just guessing.
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^ that ... harrisrc740 suggested a very easy testing procedure for that in an earlier post ...
 
Thanks Ulrich , yes it was DOT-4 fluid i used AAAAAAAAAAGH !!!!!!! BMW will repair but as the fluid is contaminated they recommend flush all out and replace clutch reservoir seal , waiting for a qoute sick as !!!!!!
 
Hammo said:
Thanks Ulrich , yes it was DOT-4 fluid i used AAAAAAAAAAGH !!!!!!! BMW will repair but as the fluid is contaminated they recommend flush all out and replace clutch reservoir seal , waiting for a qoute sick as !!!!!!
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It happens bud. It's not the end of the world and isn't a serious problem. Your enemy now is dealer labour rates :eek:
 
Hammo said:
Thanks Ulrich , yes it was DOT-4 fluid i used AAAAAAAAAAGH !!!!!!! BMW will repair but as the fluid is contaminated they recommend flush all out and replace clutch reservoir seal , waiting for a qoute sick as !!!!!!
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Ouch!!! .. well the gasket is @ $34 not a big deal ... however DOT4 and that mineral oil really don't like each other. My course of action would be ... ideally ... draining the entire fluid and replacing it with new clutch oil ... this said, I haven't looked yet but it may be that the clutch cylinder bleeder is very hard to get to (please somebody correct me if I am wrong here) ... so instead you could disconnect the line at the upper 'Tripple Tree' and then let the mixed oil completely run out (with the reservoir open) and maybe even run some clean oil after to make sure all (that was contaminated) came out. Then reconnect the line ... IMO the contamination didn't go further than that ... I hope ;) ... so now comes the trick. This clutch setup is mostly 'self bleeding' ... that means if you leave the reservoir cover open and really gently work the clutch ... over and over ... you should see little bubbles rising in the reservoir. Keep going until there are no more bubble .. slowly you should also noticing your clutch developing resistance .. keep going until you are satisfied that there is no more air in there, if you want to speed the process up initially you can fill the reservoir and cack the screw on the 'Tripple Tree' banjo fitting and wait for the oil to seep out .. that way the line is 'primed' already. DO keep the reservoir topped off!! ... but there is a catch ... have plenty of rags around ... with the cover open the oil tends to squirt when applying pressure until the piston has passed the feed hole in the cylinder ... this is right in the beginning when you pull the lever and only lasts for a mega short time ... but can get annoying ... Ooof that was a mouth full and as always ... just my 2¢ LOL
 
Also thanks to you for sharing Hammo because we all vicariously learn from this. Topping up isn’t something that you’d even think would cause the non starting issue. Four years after launch many bikes will be due for fresh fluids so it’s a timely reminder for us all to carefully follow the specs, they are there for a reason.
 
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