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My 10cts

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1791081245#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter Petrus
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HUNTS said:
Is that a 1st Ed or your Classic? Why the low bars compared to the Classic?
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These came on the bike from the dealership. "Mini Apes" I think. Too high for me, made my shoulder hurt. These new ones are touring bars from Speigler parts, Wunderkind brand, with headlight and speedometer lowering kit too. A bit of a job but I like doing it.
 

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BAD MIKE USA said:
These came on the bike from the dealership. "Mini Apes" I think. Too high for me, made my shoulder hurt. These new ones are touring bars from Speigler parts, Wunderkind brand, with headlight and speedometer lowering kit too. A bit of a job but I like doing it.
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Mine are not as high as the Roctane, but I did angle them up to give a more ‘mini ape’ feel. As they aren’t too high, I find them very comfortable. Prior to changing the angle I had considered the Roctane’bars, but not anymore.
Is it possible to lower the standard speedo without dismantling the whole front end?
IMG_5568.jpeg
 
2 bolts hold the speedo, the kit has 2 longer bolts and two spacers to lower it. i don't know if it can be lowered without lowering the headlight, not much space. i haven't put it all back together yet. drilling the bars for the controls was interesting as well as mounting the buttons. two new lines to install, clutch and brake lines, included with the kit. looks like remounting the speedo and headlight will be simple. this pic shows how it looked from the dealership. i am keeping the road lights, for now

BMW R18 P.jpg
 
BAD MIKE USA said:
2 bolts hold the speedo, the kit has 2 longer bolts and two spacers to lower it. i don't know if it can be lowered without lowering the headlight, not much space. i haven't put it all back together yet. drilling the bars for the controls was interesting as well as mounting the buttons. two new lines to install, clutch and brake lines, included with the kit. looks like remounting the speedo and headlight will be simple. this pic shows how it looked from the dealership. i am keeping the road lights, for now

View attachment 21904
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Don’t forget to send me your screen for Christmas 😉🤣
 
Noelpolar said:
I have both a R9t and a R18.... both have a DNA air filter and free flowing exhaust with valve open/removed (but still have cats), and I always run 98 fuel.... so my experience is with that baseline.

Anyway, the simple stuff....
1. I waited to they had a 20% off sale.... as it is expensive ($900us plus postage).... generally each November (black Friday) they do 15 or 20% off..... they ship a handheld device that gets through customs duty/gst free. Maybe once a year somebody might organise a group buy on this site and get 10% off for 10 sales and 20% off for 20 plus sales.... but black friday is the easiest.
2. one receives the handheld device, hooks it up to a windows PC (harder with a Mac), initialises it then connects to bike through the obd port, downloads the bike map and then uploads that stock bikes map back on the Pc and it goes to the US Bren dudes who send a new performance map back next day and you upload that back onto the bike. Job done.
3. some issues can raise their head.... if BMW do a software upload to your bike at service/recall time this may over write the performance map and a new one has to be generated (Bren charge for this as it requires effort there end). There is a bit more to this, but it is best to do the bren tune once you know that the bike is unlikely to get updated BMW software loaded.
4. As a aussie with a 3year warranty on my R9t I waited well into the second year before tuning it, I have 5 years on the R18 and tuned it at the 2 year mark as well. I service my R9t myself now, but remove the tune when BMW service the R18 (I have the free 5 year service package on that fro the reverse recall freebee)....
5. both my bikes ran lean and responded well from the tune. I intend to keep both bikes long term so didn't worry about the cost so much. I was thinking of getting a local tuner (has a great general rep) to do it but I didn't think he knew the platform all that well.
6. Generally.... the R18 motor gets better as you approach 10,000km, and really is a 1500rpm to 4,500rpm motor...... I'd enjoy my first 2 years with it, and if keeping it then long term then, consider the BT along with the inlet/exhaust bit. My only disclaimer to the DNA filter (any free flowing filter) is that if you spend much time in the dusty outback (dust storms etc) then I'd stay with the stock filter.

as a 64yo (retired for 15 years) it did take some effort to do this (I'm a mac person).... but it is doable. After the tune the R18 ran better but not night and day. 8 months latter when I removed the tune to take the bike in for the reverse recall (200km round trip) the performance difference was day to night.... go figure.... i would pay $1500aud to get it back on again if I had to now.
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Do you have a video with sound of those Lossa Mufflers? They look great.
 
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