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They are Hella signals that were often on the /2 BMW bikes in the '60s. Most anyplace that sells vintage BMW parts will have them. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/blinker159.htm. These were not plug-and-play for the R18. I had to modify the signals and machine parts on the bike to make them fit and work.That's cool! Where'd you find the bar end signals?
Please, don't give me these ideas. I tend to run with them.Very very sweet. Add some tank knee pads, and cut a hole in left side of the tank to store the bmw tool kit and it would be perfect lol (well at least my 65 r60/2 has a left side storage are in the tank key accessed).
Oh, I'm familiar with the Hella's. I thought that yours might have been something made for the R18 that were made to look like the Hellas.They are Hella signals that were often on the /2 BMW bikes in the '60s. Most anyplace that sells vintage BMW parts will have them. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/blinker159.htm. These were not plug-and-play for the R18. I had to modify the signals and machine parts on the bike to make them fit and work.
Will you remove the original front turn signals?They are Hella signals that were often on the /2 BMW bikes in the '60s. Most anyplace that sells vintage BMW parts will have them. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/blinker159.htm. These were not plug-and-play for the R18. I had to modify the signals and machine parts on the bike to make them fit and work.
Ah... yes please, a bit more detail would be great. How did you bore out the bar end weights? A lathe?No issues. I used LED Festoon bulbs which don't draw enough to mess with CANbus. If you want, I can go into more detail about what I had to do. The trickiest part was boring through that long-ass bolt holding the bar weights in.
Excellent explanation. As it requires a lathe to be done correctly, it will have to be a future project for me. Thank you for taking the effort and time to write this up.Let's see...first the Hella signals. I broke off the expansion tabs that would normally go into the bar end. They're aluminum and they break off easily with a pair of pliers and then I filed them smooth.
Remove the bar end bolts and weights. For the bolts: I drilled a 5/32" hole through the bolt for the wire. The bolt is 75mm to 80mm long so I had to do this from each end and they have to meet. Use a good bit in a lathe or drill press and take your time. Then at the head of the bolt, drill and tap it for M8 x 1.25 threads. I went like 18mm deep. This is to fit the drilled, aluminum bolt that comes with the Hella signals.
Since the bolts are almost flush to the bar end weights stock, I had to recess the weights for the depth of the signal ends. This was done on a metal lathe. Carefully wrap the weight with tape to protect the finish. Don't overlap the tape because it has to be perfectly centered in the chuck. A boring tool was used to maintain the same diameter hole from a depth of 13mm to 26mm...so the bolt is just deep enough for the signal end to snug against the bolt.
I used 18 gauge wire to fish through everything and tapped into the wiring harness. I used the wire connectors that have solder already inside shrike tubing and it worked slick. You only need one wire for these signals since the ground is through the housing.
I got 42mm Festoon bulbs here: https://www.ledlight.com/festoon_42mm_3_watt_led_6_qty_5730_smd_12vdc_1_3_4_inches_120_deg.aspx The amber color bulbs do work best.
Between the bar end and the signal housing, I used neoprene washers (I had to fabricate my own) to keep water out and to keep the signals from turning. I also used a little blue Loctite on the supplied aluminum M8x1.25 bolt.
I am very happy with the result.