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New mufflers on

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Looks great. I'm thinking of getting the Freedom Performance long pipes with the shark tail. I haven't seen that Pro Race makes a version for the B and I don't want to spend 3k+for Jekill and Hyde. Did you have to have the ECU tuned? Any engine lights on with the slip ons? Did you notice any power increase? Thanks.
 
They're just a straight-through piece of pipe right?

If it was me, I'd turn the clamp so you don't see the bolt but otherwise looks pretty good, although damn pricey for what they are.
 
Looks great. I'm thinking of getting the Freedom Performance long pipes with the shark tail. I haven't seen that Pro Race makes a version for the B and I don't want to spend 3k+for Jekill and Hyde. Did you have to have the ECU tuned? Any engine lights on with the slip ons? Did you notice any power increase? Thanks.

Look into Mad exhaust. That will eventually be where I go in a year or so, its about 1200, headers and all. No tune. No lights. The ecu on this bike is HIGHLY adaptable. Zero tune needed. Power increase is likely, but definitely not something you could feel I don't believe.

They're just a straight-through piece of pipe right?

If it was me, I'd turn the clamp so you don't see the bolt but otherwise looks pretty good, although damn pricey for what they are.

Its straight through, but there is a designed taper, the sound difference with them off vs on is significant. I may turn it actually, good eye!

If just straight through you might want to put something in to avoid the O2 sensor giving out of spec signals causing CEL code.

That won't happen. The O2 is catalyst dependant and wide band, if it has the catalyst intact, which it does, and at least 8" of pipe, there will be no reversion.
 
That won't happen. The O2 is catalyst dependant and wide band, if it has the catalyst intact, which it does, and at least 8" of pipe, there will be no reversion.

Point is that the speed of the flow will be a lot higher at most revs and the sensors occasionally fail to read accurately. It has a simple solution; add a spacer.

Reading the Pro-Race website they estimate 1+ horse which I can understand as the intake muffler seems to be the bottle neck.
 
Point is that the speed of the flow will be a lot higher at most revs and the sensors occasionally fail to read accurately. It has a simple solution; add a spacer.

Reading the Pro-Race website they estimate 1+ horse which I can understand as the intake muffler seems to be the bottle neck.

Yes I definitely understand you, as I tune vehicles and motorcycles personally. Those issues do pop up from time to time with my own NGK widebands in the tailpipe. But I really see zero ability here due to the location of both upstream, and downstream sensors, as well as the pipe extension beyond the downstream.

And I agree with you on the bottleneck, the intake is definitely the choke point. 👍
 
And I agree with you on the bottleneck, the intake is definitely the choke point. 👍

I will leave the imo stunningly beautiful pear drop fish tails but will have a mild go at the intake. Have the Sprint dry sports filter in and have asked my son to 3D print honey comb ´1800cc´ plates to add intake area.
Not to liberate powah 🫣 but simply because I do not like an engine to suck; literally.
 
The ecu on this bike is HIGHLY adaptable. Zero tune needed.

This should imo be a FAT highlight which was proven by Roland Sands dyno runs with their various tuning test. The concensus is that there is some 20-25% band width in the OEM tables. In other words, it will keep adjusting to the same fuel mixture parameters for some 20% more flow.

Now please let nobody get overenthusiastic with that as without major modifications to the intake, there is not a lot more air that can be induce to flow through.
Even the Roland Sands twin intake with open bell mouths (and tuned open no-mufflers) did not get to the max of the stock program.

Also any increase of BMEP will make higher octane fuel necessary as otherwise the electronic brain will simply retard ignition. I wager the RS tuning needed 100+ octane rated fuel.

Anyway; the crux is that a slip on exhaust (and or sports filter) will not need a change of tune ;)
 
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Yes I definitely understand you, as I tune vehicles and motorcycles personally.
If you would want to tune the R18, according to the article about the Roland Sands tuning it is possible to take all of the air filter housing and air boxes out and simply fit two velocity stacks to the stock Bing throttle body.
These are supposedly a direct fit
 
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I’ve had those on my bike since the Spring. Very ‘raw’ sound, and I believe significantly more ‘go’ (unless it’s subjective, but there is a huge weight saving too…). No tuning been done, never a warning light. Miss the looks of the fishtails sometimes tho. 🙄
 
I’ve had those on my bike since the Spring. Very ‘raw’ sound, and I believe significantly more ‘go’ (unless it’s subjective, but there is a huge weight saving too…). No tuning been done, never a warning light. Miss the looks of the fishtails sometimes tho. 🙄

Yes the fishtails are nice looking, but honestly just too quiet. 😆
 
I agree the originals are quiet but it is an essential aspect of the retro theme. So removed the flap servos which does make a slight difference at lesser throttle openings.
I 🤞that allowing some more air in, thus leading to a bit bigger bang may be a bit louder too.
Waiting till the filter needs replacing.
 
Anyway; the crux is that a slip on exhaust (and or sports filter) will not need a change of tune ;)

I'm running 2 "euro 5" heritage air cooled BMW's (R18 and r9t)... both with open flaps, exhaust and air intake mods...... both tuned.... both with significantly different before tune/after tune riding characteristics in modified form.

In both cases it was not about peak hp.... mostly low and mid range motor performance. I was recently reminded how much better the R18 was after removing the tune for a few weeks when having the reverse recall done.
 
Yeh, sadly sooo quiet, and way beyond my skills to do the ‘gutting’ thing.
But I feel there’s a visual ‘disconnect’ where the quite stood-off chrome heat shield ends, and the titanium Pro-Race starts… was pondering removing the heat shields and wrapping the whole thing, never got around to it yet though.
 
In both cases it was not about peak hp.... mostly low and mid range motor performance. I was recently reminded how much better the R18 was after removing the tune for a few weeks when having the reverse recall done.

Point in case of the mufflers being that there is no nééd to do a retune. The stock program is very flexible in maintaining the mixture within set parameters as the Roland Sands tests illustrate. In the article(s) it was mentioned that they got the 107 hp with stock ECU.
Whether in the sense of running ´better´ the R18 benefits from a retune or not is an entirely different issue.
 
They look great. Just remove stock pipes and install? Do they have any sound deadening or pure straight pipe?

Yes, exactly that. Very easy install. It has no sound deadening material, but does use the shape of the pipe to change the sound dynamics. Straight pipe, vs the prorace design is pretty significant. Surprisingly so IMO.
 
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