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R18 - Aftermarket ECU options

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I still have an issue that existed before the tune whereby if I don't put enough rev's on the bike when taking off from the lights or a junction, the bike seems to rev and then drop revs on its own. I have to rev reasonably strongly if I want a smooth take off from stationary. Likewise, when taking off from an incline, the bike needs to be revved. I wouldn't expect that with so much torque available.
Just a thought as I originally had the same impression (no tune); perhaps you (as I was) too quick letting off the clutch. I now give moderate revs at takeoff (old pilot speak) while very slowly easing the clutch out, now cures the dropping of revs...give the engine a chance to take a deep breath of fresh revs! It's all in the reference of "practice" and "experimenting" to find perfection.
 
I still have an issue that existed before the tune whereby if I don't put enough rev's on the bike when taking off from the lights or a junction, the bike seems to rev and then drop revs on its own. I have to rev reasonably strongly if I want a smooth take off from stationary. Likewise, when taking off from an incline, the bike needs to be revved. I wouldn't expect that with so much torque available.
I don t have this sensation at all . from Stopped , it starts absolutely normally. May be something else to watch .
 
Side question here - does the tune mitigate the 2800-3100 vibration when cruising in that range?

My tailbone isn’t doing so well after 200km at sustained highway speeds.
 
Side question here - does the tune mitigate the 2800-3100 vibration when cruising in that range?

My tailbone isn’t doing so well after 200km at sustained highway speeds.
The tune is more designed to improve the rideability than to extract more power.
I think you’ll be very happy with the improvement in smoothing out the rev range.
 
As most of you probably already know R18 has a severely restricted lump of an engine possibly hiding potential of 10-20% more power just by derestricting it and letting it breathe.

If we would compare it to the closest Harley 107 or 114 M8 engine, with proper de-cat exhaust, more free breathing intake and derestricted intake tubes + getting it properly tuned we could see 100-120 HP from stock 91.

Right now there is yet to be released tuner or aftermarket ECU for Bmw R18 and that is the main problem. All of the new bikes stock from factory run very lean and further introducing free flowing exhaust and more air makes it very lean and potentially only hindering performance and longetivity compared to stock.

With R18B and Transcontinental I think there is a potentially big market for these aftermarket ECU solutions but none are currently available, year and a half after initial release of the motorcycle.

I have contacted all of the tuners offering ECU / remapping solutions and here are the results:

DIMSPORT/Rapid Bike - No intention at the moment to develop ECU for Bmw R18
PowerCommander - No response
Brentuning - They have started the development but they need someone lending them a bike to finish ECU development. They are from Michigan so if someone is local please get in touch with them so we can finally let this motorcycle breathe.

If you have any other pieces of information about aftermarket ECU for R18 please share.

p.s. I got also mixed information from local BMW mechanics telling me that modern ECU fitted to BMW R18 has the autotune capability via lambdas to overcome any additionally introduced leanness and compensate it automatically so we are free to "tune it".

p.p.s. There is a ton of custom R18 out there with full custom free exhaust and intake modifications, not sure if they just run stock ECU or is there some "secret" solution to adjust air and fuel levels.
Can an ecu be repaired?
 
Can an ecu be repaired?
Any electronic device can be repaired. However, are you referring to "bricked" ECU's (i.e. software was corrupted)? If it's hardware issues, I'd start by diagnosing any burnt out diodes, as they would be most affected by voltage surges/drops.

If you're referring to software, In most circumstances, even "bricked" ECU's can be recovered. I personally haven't explored the ECU in Alcina, but have experience modifying the MS43 DME for my E46, and that requires a spaghetti-nest of wires to interface with my PC for coding.

Take a look at this linked forum for the BMW S1000rr on what they use to flash their Bosch ECU's. The most popular tools are "KESS V2" and "ECM Titanium" to interface with, and code the ECU. IMO, the same tools should work with the R18 ECU's, but again, I have not personally tested this, so take what I say as informative, but not authoritative.

https://www.s1000rrforum.com/threads/diy-flashing.231929/

Mike
 
Any electronic device can be repaired. However, are you referring to "bricked" ECU's (i.e. software was corrupted)? If it's hardware issues, I'd start by diagnosing any burnt out diodes, as they would be most affected by voltage surges/drops.

If you're referring to software, In most circumstances, even "bricked" ECU's can be recovered. I personally haven't explored the ECU in Alcina, but have experience modifying the MS43 DME for my E46, and that requires a spaghetti-nest of wires to interface with my PC for coding.

Take a look at this linked forum for the BMW S1000rr on what they use to flash their Bosch ECU's. The most popular tools are "KESS V2" and "ECM Titanium" to interface with, and code the ECU. IMO, the same tools should work with the R18 ECU's, but again, I have not personally tested this, so take what I say as informative, but not authoritative.

https://www.s1000rrforum.com/threads/diy-flashing.231929/

Mike
I don't have a clue to get started. But thanks for info. I'll get it tested at dealer and go from there. Thanks again
 
For one I have nó issue with the stock performance of my 2022 R18. No hesitations, pick up delays or what. Not noticed any flat spot/dip either. But then I do not ride the bike in a ´sporty´ way and always have more than enough torque availeble.
The only observation with its specific/inherent up and down sides is the rocking Rock mode at smaller throttle openings. On the up side I lóve the way the torque comes in but it does mean trailing the brake into a tighter corner.
I lóve the not perfectly stable idle and rough edges in ´Rock´. As such I do not feel an itch to ´improve´ on the stock tune.

That said, I have 50 years of positive experiences with ´chipping´ sports bikes and cars. That is a totally different proposition though as nowadays attractively priced; p.e. under 200€, OBD2 port plug ins are widely available for popular models.
 
I do ride mine in a sporty way. Usually 75-90 mph on the highways and I love how the bike pulls.
Like @Petrus says I notice no dips, however I do ride on Rock always, and always use Ethanol free 89 most of the time and 93 when I can find it.
 
I do ride mine in a sporty way. Usually 75-90 mph on the highways and I love how the bike pulls.
Like @Petrus says I notice no dips, however I do ride on Rock always, and always use Ethanol free 89 most of the time and 93 when I can find it.
The R18 runs totally ok on E5 / E10, although ethanol does have a wee bit less caloric value. In your case the difference in octane rating is more significant; 89 is rather lowish. I find mine pulls two up a handful of throttle from low revs up hill better on 98 than on 95.
My riding is mostly in first to fourth through mountainous country. A significant portion is without exagerating better suited for my Vespa Primavera 125! There are day long trips on the R18 that I do not exceed the top speed of said dainty Vespa. Switchbacks shifting down to first, up out and down again, repeat. *
For reference you may want to have a look on Google maps for Árchez, Málaga. In three weeks it hostst a classic vehicle meeting. Look at the possible routes :ROFLMAO:



Even the highways have 8% inclines so going up at the max legal speed of 120 km/h is nicer in fifth.
Anyway, definitely 98 octane yes, tune up nâh; I like it rough 🫣
Ah and I´d more happily fork out 1k for a better suited 5 speed gear box rather than 200 for a tune.

* almost a hour local inland roads distance from here, crossing the Los Alazores pass, is the Puerto del Sol. Going down the M-156 is still too much of a challenge. Heck even going up from Periana is, but thát I will tackle. Take the longer route around past the thermal Baños de Vilo, then úp. Per exception solo, no passenger. A charming but challenging extra on this pass is a herd of sheep with territorial males which you are about 50/50 to encounter.
 
The R18 runs totally ok on E5 / E10, although ethanol does have a wee bit less caloric value. In your case the difference in octane rating is more significant; 89 is rather lowish. I find mine pulls two up a handful of throttle from low revs up hill better on 98 than on 95.
My riding is mostly in first to fourth through mountainous country. A significant portion is without exagerating better suited for my Vespa Primavera 125! There are day long trips on the R18 that I do not exceed the top speed of said dainty Vespa. Switchbacks shifting down to first, up out and down again, repeat. *
For reference you may want to have a look on Google maps for Árchez, Málaga. In three weeks it hostst a classic vehicle meeting. Look at the possible routes :ROFLMAO:

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Even the highways have 8% inclines so going up at the max legal speed of 120 km/h is nicer in fifth.
Anyway, definitely 98 octane yes, tune up nâh; I like it rough 🫣
Ah and I´d more happily fork out 1k for a better suited 5 speed gear box rather than 200 for a tune.

* almost a hour local inland roads distance from here, crossing the Los Alazores pass, is the Puerto del Sol. Going down the M-156 is still too much of a challenge. Heck even going up from Periana is, but thát I will tackle. Take the longer route around past the thermal Baños de Vilo, then úp. Per exception solo, no passenger. A charming but challenging extra on this pass is a herd of sheep with territorial males which you are about 50/50 to encounter.
I'd like to visit the region of Malaga some day, probably self guided tour on a rental BMW.
 
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