• Welcome to the BMW R18 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

R18 footpeg bolt nightmare! Factory glue is like cement (Need advice / venting)

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1789222567#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter DRACKO
  • Start date Start date

DRACKO

Member
Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2024
Messages
57
Location
Weston, Florida
Visit site
Bike
R18 First Edition 2021
Hey everyone,
Just need to vent a little bit and see if anyone else has dealt with this absolute nightmare. I’m trying to swap my stock footpegs for floorboards, and what should've been an easy weekend project turned into a massive headache. Honestly, if I knew it was going to be this bad, I would’ve never touched it!
The factory bolt was so ridiculously stuck that when I tried to use a breaker bar, the Torx head stripped completely. It didn't budge even a tiny bit. To get the stock peg bracket out of the way, I had to use a Dremel and cut the head of the bolt completely off.
As you can see in the photos, I managed to remove the bracket, and now I have about an inch of the bolt sticking out. The problem? Whatever glue BMW used at the factory feels like actual cement. It’s like the bolt is welded to the frame. I’ve tried everything.
First, I used an extractor bit, but it just stripped the inside of the bolt and is spinning out because the bolt is frozen.
Then, I bought a heat gun and blasted it on HIGH for 7 full minutes to melt the SUPER loctite or whatever they used. Right after heating it, I clamped some locking pliers on it as tight as humanly possible, and nothing. It won't move at all. I feel like the thick bike frame is just absorbing all the heat.
At this point, a friend told me to give up at home and just take it to a welding shop. The plan would be to weld a regular nut onto the broken bolt that's sticking out. Supposedly, the extreme heat from welding will finally melt that factory glue so we can just twist it out with a regular wrench.
Has anyone else dealt with this specific footpeg bolt? Any magic tricks before I have to load the bike onto a trailer and take it to a shop?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6993.jpeg
    IMG_6993.jpeg
    676.3 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_6989.jpeg
    IMG_6989.jpeg
    532.1 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_6990.jpeg
    IMG_6990.jpeg
    546.9 KB · Views: 33
Did you strip the bolt head or the Torx tool..?

I agree 💯 that these bolts are tough to back out, but nothing that would result to these levels of frustration...

I have harden steel impact Torx tools, which are tooled for 3/4" drives.

I don't hate the welding idea at this point; perhaps, get that Dremel tool out and create a slot that would allow you to get a screw driver tip into it. I have two right angle screwdrivers that might work on this problem, as well as an impact screw driver that has free'd up tough rusted screws..

Good Luck..
 
I bought the floorboard brackets and swapped them without too much trouble. I do remember applying quite a bit of torque.
The nightmare situation described here is such a pain.
I can remember only 1 time I had this dilemma. My fix was to tap an indent right smack in the middle of the bolt, then begin drilling perpendicular with a small bit, then larger bit, then larger bit. Finally I began to hammer from the outside-->in and peel the threads of the bolt away from the screw barrel. Took a long time. The drilling needed to be dead center.
 
"IT WORKED!!!!!! This tool is an absolute miracle! Hey @bdalameda, thank you so much for the advice, man. In my country, we have a slang word for a project that gets horribly complicated, goes back and forth, and seems to have no way out—we call it a 'cangrejo' (a crab). You, my friend, are officially the Crab Guru! You saved my bike and my sanity. Thanks again!"
 

Attachments

  • 13C24472-E203-4F7B-94AF-51BE54F65881.jpeg
    13C24472-E203-4F7B-94AF-51BE54F65881.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 20
"IT WORKED!!!!!! This tool is an absolute miracle! Hey @bdalameda, thank you so much for the advice, man. In my country, we have a slang word for a project that gets horribly complicated, goes back and forth, and seems to have no way out—we call it a 'cangrejo' (a crab). You, my friend, are officially the Crab Guru! You saved my bike and my sanity. Thanks again!"
In Australia, we use FAR MORE HARSH words when we experience such a kafuckle as yours.
Brilliant result, Dude 🏆
 
Definitely will add it to my tool box; hopefully though, I won't ever have to use it...
+1. In a backwards sense this thread has been a good learning tool (no pun intended). Gonna get one of those gizmos. Used once a blue moon but when it’s available will be a godsend.
 
Back to the original post studs, I think I'm going to try and break loose the foot peg bolts before I order replacement pegs! Are heel toe shifters required when you install floor boards?


BMW R18 C.webp
 
Last edited:
Back to the original post studs, I think I'm going to try and break loose the foot peg bolts before I order replacement pegs! Are heel toe shifters required when you install floor boards?


View attachment 21704

Hey Mike! Today I actually removed the peg bracket bolts on the shifter side with zero issues, so you’ll probably be totally fine too.
What I did was use a heat gun on HI for 5 minutes per bolt. I used a reducer nozzle to focus all the heat right on the bolt head. Right after heating it, I tapped it a few times with a hammer to shock and loosen up the dry glue.
Then I grabbed my breaker bar, applied a bit of pressure on the bolts, and they came right out! To be honest, I literally prayed to God right before turning the tool, begging for them to come out clean. When they finally broke loose, I was just laughing out loud by myself 🤣.
One tip: I soaked a few microfiber towels in water and wrapped them around the frame and gaps near the bolts. The heat gun nozzle gets red hot and the towels get super warm, so be careful not to burn them, but they do an awesome job protecting the nearby wires and plastics from that intense heat.
Oh, and about your question: you can absolutely keep using your stock shifter. You don't need to switch to a heel-toe shifter at all unless you want to 😉!
 
Back
Top