R18 handlebar question.

Nice, but he skillfully avoids the one thing I had asked about, which was if I could readily reposition the handlebar switchboxes by loosening them and rotating them on the bar, assuming they weren't 'pinned' in one position by the factory, as most motorcycle handlebar switch housings are these days. When he moved his handlebars upward, he found that the lever positions were where he wanted them, so didn't bother re-positioning them.

I know, it's a simple thing to find out for myself, and that's what I'll do.

The reason I asked this question, is because I am considering narrowing the stock bars by an inch on either side, and didn't want to locate and drill new positioning holes in the bars if they were the pinned type.
 
Nice, but he skillfully avoids the one thing I had asked about, which was if I could readily reposition the handlebar switchboxes by loosening them and rotating them on the bar, assuming they weren't 'pinned' in one position by the factory, as most motorcycle handlebar switch housings are these days. When he moved his handlebars upward, he found that the lever positions were where he wanted them, so didn't bother re-positioning them.

I know, it's a simple thing to find out for myself, and that's what I'll do.

The reason I asked this question, is because I am considering narrowing the stock bars by an inch on either side, and didn't want to locate and drill new positioning holes in the bars if they were the pinned type.
"I know, it's a simple thing to find out for myself, and that's what I'll do." When you get done let us know. Enquiring minds want to know.
 
Nice, but he skillfully avoids the one thing I had asked about, which was if I could readily reposition the handlebar switchboxes by loosening them and rotating them on the bar, assuming they weren't 'pinned' in one position by the factory, as most motorcycle handlebar switch housings are these days. When he moved his handlebars upward, he found that the lever positions were where he wanted them, so didn't bother re-positioning them.

I know, it's a simple thing to find out for myself, and that's what I'll do.

The reason I asked this question, is because I am considering narrowing the stock bars by an inch on either side, and didn't want to locate and drill new positioning holes in the bars if they were the pinned type.
I don’t know what exactly are you trying to do, but those things will narrow automatically you bar, almost one inch by their selves…
 

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I don’t know what exactly are you trying to do, but those things will narrow automatically you bar, almost one inch by their selves…

What I was trying to do, is possibly narrowing the hand positions of the very wide R18 handlebars. The only way to do that is to cut an inch off of each end of the bars (with a pipe cutter, for example), and reposition the grips, clutch/brake levers, and switchboxes inward by one inch, accordingly.

Shorter bar end caps/weights alone won't do that, even if designed by Roland Sands.

I will probably just keep the wide bars as they are, but in general, prefer somewhat shorter handlebars than those on the R18.

It's not a big deal.
 
What I was trying to do, is possibly narrowing the hand positions of the very wide R18 handlebars. The only way to do that is to cut an inch off of each end of the bars (with a pipe cutter, for example), and reposition the grips, clutch/brake levers, and switchboxes inward by one inch, accordingly.

Shorter bar end caps/weights alone won't do that, even if designed by Roland Sands.

I will probably just keep the wide bars as they are, but in general, prefer somewhat shorter handlebars than those on the R18.

It's not a big deal.
The R18 uses 1" handlebars, except for the ends where the grips and switches are located. Those ends, roughly 170 mm (6-5/8") long, are 7/8" in diameter. The adjacent parts of the handlebars, where the clutch and front brake levers clamp on, are 1" in diameter. I believe that that is exactly to prevent what you have in mind - to modify the stock handlebars. Quality motorcycle parts and accessories are mostly TÜV-certified in Germany and will often feature some constraint to deter modification.
 
The R18 uses 1" handlebars, except for the ends where the grips and switches are located. Those ends, roughly 170 mm (6-5/8") long, are 7/8" in diameter. The adjacent parts of the handlebars, where the clutch and front brake levers clamp on, are 1" in diameter. I believe that that is exactly to prevent what you have in mind - to modify the stock handlebars. Quality motorcycle parts and accessories are mostly TÜV-certified in Germany and will often feature some constraint to deter modification.

Interesting, and consistent with other annoying little items, such as not providing any oil and filter change procedures in the 'Rider's Manual' (note, not 'Owner's Manual') provided with this machine. Heaven forbid that a rider of a modern BMW motorcycle might want to take a proactive and personal approach to the simpler maintenance procedures of the machine that they apparently rented from the company for $23,000.
 
Interesting, and consistent with other annoying little items, such as not providing any oil and filter change procedures in the 'Rider's Manual' (note, not 'Owner's Manual') provided with this machine. Heaven forbid that a rider of a modern BMW motorcycle might want to take a proactive and personal approach to the simpler maintenance procedures of the machine that they apparently rented from the company for $23,000.
If you need detailed instructions to change the oil, maybe you should reconsider.
 
Interesting, and consistent with other annoying little items, such as not providing any oil and filter change procedures in the 'Rider's Manual' (note, not 'Owner's Manual') provided with this machine. Heaven forbid that a rider of a modern BMW motorcycle might want to take a proactive and personal approach to the simpler maintenance procedures of the machine that they apparently rented from the company for $23,000.
There is plenty of service information in this forum and on YouTube at the BMW MOA videos page. We should be seeing service shop manuals available by 2024.
 
If you need detailed instructions to change the oil, maybe you should reconsider.
I don't need their detailed instructions to change my R18's oil and filter, smartass, the information is readily available elsewhere. But give me one good reason why such things are now omitted from their 'owners' manuals? Is it to sell more full service manuals, or to get you into those $150 an hour service departments for even the simplest of maintenance procedures?
 
I've only been here a very short time, but long enough to see that it's someplace I don't need, or want, to be. Have a nice day.
That's unfortunate. You could've just posted the photo of your garage (multiple bikes, lift, partially assembled bits here and there) in rebuttal. Clearly you're comfortable wrenching. The lack of a proper service manual is a sign of the times, I'm afraid. Manufacturers really don't want people doing their own maintenance. Fortunately---and has been mentioned---there are videos and tutorials a'plenty. Kind of the other side of the coin, I reckon. Anyhow, hope you reconsider.
 
Anyone else think that the wires as shown at centre of handlebars should have been run to the rear of the yoke thereby causing less obstruction to the view of the lovely dash?
 

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I've only been here a very short time, but long enough to see that it's someplace I don't need, or want, to be. Have a nice day.
If you accept and kind of drown out black dogs saltiness and lack of social grace this is a really helpful forum. Stick around. I’m new as well and had that feeling but the positives outweigh the negatives.
 
If you accept and kind of drown out black dogs saltiness and lack of social grace this is a really helpful forum. Stick around. I’m new as well and had that feeling but the positives outweigh the negatives.
It enough to cause me to leave
 
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