Rear Break Pad

[Emmanuel]

I went for my 1st service at 570 miles on it 3 week ago. I have noticed my rear brake pad looks even. The mechanic from my local dealer told me it's normal because the way BMW designed the brake pad has a bevel in it. 1st picture is my rear brake pad and the 2nd picture is my friend's Classic R18. Any thoughts?

 

[TodkaVonic]

Beveled Rear Brake Pads

Soon after taking my R18 home I happened to look down at the rear caliper and said WTF? The pads looked like the "tops" (outboard edges) were worn away, to a severe angle. But I almost never touch the rear brake pedal and even if I did use the rear brake more, the pads couldn't be worn away...

www.r18forums.com

yup

 

[Emmanuel]

Beveled Rear Brake Pads

Soon after taking my R18 home I happened to look down at the rear caliper and said WTF? The pads looked like the "tops" (outboard edges) were worn away, to a severe angle. But I almost never touch the rear brake pedal and even if I did use the rear brake more, the pads couldn't be worn away...

www.r18forums.com

yup

Thanks. So, that's really normal then. Hopefully, soon or later I will not replace my rotor because looks like its gonna hit the rotor and it will cost me $500 plus labor

 

[theMucker]

The actual brake pad material is NOT beveled top to bottom (outboard-to-inboard). The pad material has an angled friction surface at both ends that makes it look like that.

Beveled Rear Brake Pads

Soon after taking my R18 home I happened to look down at the rear caliper and said WTF? The pads looked like the "tops" (outboard edges) were worn away, to a severe angle. But I almost never touch the rear brake pedal and even if I did use the rear brake more, the pads couldn't be worn away...

www.r18forums.com

 

[David R]

Its the way the pad is made.

You are fine, the brakes will last 20,000 miles or more.
I got 44,000 out of the original set on my R1200R.
Only 10,000 on my R1100RT.

 

[Emmanuel]

Thanks guys!

 

[Philr18]

Seems like im getting close to replace my rear brake pad... the bike has only 5800 miles.... what are you guys think?

 

[BobW]

Seems like im getting close to replace my rear brake pad... the bike has only 5800 miles.... what are you guys think?

The pads are easy to check and easy to change. You can zoom in on your photo and also look at the photos just above of a worn set and another with new pads. You can see the amount left with how deep/shallow the grooves are. Unless I was heading out on a long trip I would just monitor the wear and when the grooves are almost gone I would pop a new set in or if you prefer have the shop do it when needed.

That said, you're ready for a 6,000 mile service and if this were to bother your peace of mind you can service them for about $70.00 (U.S.) for pads plus labor if you use OEM bits.

Good luck.

 

[Philr18]

The pads are easy to check and easy to change. You can zoom in on your photo and also look at the photos just above of a worn set and another with new pads. You can see the amount left with how deep/shallow the grooves are. Unless I was heading out on a long trip I would just monitor the wear and when the grooves are almost gone I would pop a new set in or if you prefer have the shop do it when needed.

That said, you're ready for a 6,000 mile service and if this were to bother your peace of mind you can service them for about $70.00 (U.S.) for pads plus labor if you use OEM bits.

Good luck.

I've bought a new set of pads already... will wait a lil probably to replace them...got everything for a 6 k service as well... i'll prob just take to a dealer for the valve clearence check... everything else i'll probably do my self

 

[BobW]

I've bought a new set of pads already... will wait a lil probably to replace them...got everything for a 6 k service as well... i'll prob just take to a dealer for the valve clearence check... everything else i'll probably do my self

Sounds like you're more than on top of things, apologies for "preaching to the choir". Have you had a chance to eyeball the new v. old pad as to depth of material?

 

[Philr18]

Sounds like you're more than on top of things, apologies for "preaching to the choir". Have you had a chance to eyeball the new v. old pad as to depth of material?

I took a pic of a new motorcycle pad at the dealer before i bought the things i need for the 6 k service... take a look... im about half?! Maybe lower than that... i will measure once i take the old pad out to compare... prob in few miles... i'll keep my eye on it for now.. look at the pic below of a new bike /pad vs mine bike pad

 

[Philr18]

Having a hard time removing the rear brake pad pin.....it turns but it wont come out...m i doing something wrong?

 

[BobW]

Hmmmm, plenty of anti seize on it and new enough there shouldn't be any corrosion present anyways so I'm guessing there may be some binding causing the reluctance to vacate the premises. I'd try pushing the pads back to get a little wiggle room and maybe a needle nose plier can get enough bite to assist with the eviction.

 

[Philr18]

I've tried Bob trust me... i think im doin something wrong for some reason... no videos outhere with the same ecxatly calipers...all the other brakes they usually hit the pin the other side to remove it... i did force kind a lot and still not coming out...

 

[BobW]

I've tried Bob trust me... i think im doin something wrong for some reason... no videos outhere with the same ecxatly calipers...all the other brakes they usually hit the pin the other side to remove it... i did force kind a lot and still not coming out...

In the end this is going to be one of those face palm moments, but I would be doing exactly as you are so I can appreciate how frustrating this must be.

I just looked at the brakes on Max BMW's parts to see if anything is listed or shown that may give a clue. The diagram for rear brakes "#10" or front brakes "#6", shows what may be a small washer or clip shaped part, but my old eyes can't see it clearly enough to confirm what it is and the bits are only referred to as mounting hardware. It looks almost more circlip than traditional "hair pin" that is used to secure the brake support shaft/pin in place on all my other bikes using traditional Brembo calipers.

Anyway. If you haven't removed anything securing the bolt from backing out I would screw it back in and see if a circlip or hairpin, etc., may be camouflaged by anti seize and/or was hidden in the caliper recess when you tried to back the pin out, but it did it's job when it stopped full removal. A circlip can be almost invisible at anything, but the "right" viewing angle so snugging the pin back up and doing a new search for the "clip/pin/lock tab" would be my next step.

 

[Philr18]

I've removed the clip , its easy you cant miss that , but that sucker still stuck haha

 

[BobW]

You're way too proficient for my guessing game to be of any good use at all

I will do some more searching as this should have been been a fairly easy R+R. I certainly would have proceeded exactly as you have when servicing my brakes so this is important for all of us that like to do our own work. Of course I recall other times BMW has incorporated "interesting" answers to questions no-one was asking so you can never let your guard down completely

p.s.

If no circlip, etc., is in play, I still feel there is something binding that is the functional equivalent to preventing removal. Try pushing, tapping, separating the pads to make sure they are free to move even though you've done it before. Maybe a small piece of casting is hanging up on the bolt thread?

 

[Philr18]

You're way too proficient for my guessing game to be of any good use at all

I will do some more searching as this should have been been a fairly easy R+R. I certainly would have proceeded exactly as you have when servicing my brakes so this is important for all of us that like to do our own work. Of course I recall other times BMW has incorporated "interesting" answers to questions no-one was asking so you can never let your guard down completely

p.s.

If no circlip, etc., is in play, I still feel there is something binding that is the functional equivalent to preventing removal. Try pushing, tapping, separating the pads to make sure they are free to move even though you've done it before. Maybe a small piece of casting is hanging up on the bolt thread?

I've sent an email to Brembo last friday... lets see what they say , if they respond of course

 

[Brownie]

G'day All,

Regarding the rear brake issue and comments, I recently experienced a rear pad squeak at only 1600kms. I am a 'rear brake' rider. Something I was taught for riding a heavy bike. I also experienced the same thing on my HD Road King Special.

Yesterday, I took the pads out and 'roughed' them up which fixed the problem. The process was straight forward and only to 40 - 45 mins.

For the those looking at doing the same thing I can confirm the following:

1. The left muffler needs to be removed to allow the bottom brake calliper bolt to come out.
2. There is a small 'double R clip' holding the brake mounting pin in place that needs to be removed. Easy to do.
3. The pin needs to be screwed out with a torx bit. Came out easily. I reinstalled the pin with some loctite.
4. The easiest way to rough up the pads is to rub the surface of the pads on flat concrete in a figure 8 pattern until the glaze is removed.

The shape of the pads caught me by surprise as well but after speaking to an experienced motorcycle mechanic, I was informed that the design is aimed at providing improved airflow and cooling to the surface of the pad, and allow the brake dust to fall away easier.

I hope this information is of assistance.

Brownie