Shifter and rear brake lever adustments

Hey guys,

Still on the fence about pulling the trigger on an R18TC......I know the shifter lever can be moved a spline to fine tune to a riders preference but what about the rear brake lever?

Has anyone spent time messing around to get a better set-up? I just don't like heel shifting to up-shift.

Craig
 
To be honest I never use the heel shifter and my riding boots manage to up shift and downshift using the front lever. I was also conscious about this until I test rode the bike and I have now done a few hundred miles since getting her. The boots don’t have to be right under the shifter, I shift up with the side or big toe area. The shifter is ever so smooth you don’t need to apply much pressure. You can move the front shifter to a horizontal position and I reckon you will be fine. The rear break lever on my bike is also low enough for me to press it down when needed and the cylinders are not in the way, at least not on my B. I wear UK size 10 and the bike has floor boards.
 
The TC is my first bike with heel-toe shift. I wear motorcycling boots and they are a bit bulky.
When I picked the bike up from the dealer, I had the shifter adjusted so I can shift up and down with the toe of my boot like I'm used to doing. After a couple thousand miles, I got used to the heel-toe shift and I just adjusted the levers back to them more comfortable for heel-toe shifting. It's actually very comfortable on this style of bike with floorboards.
The rear shift lever position took a bit of adapting to but now I'm used to it and it's not a problem.
 
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I have been adjusting to my first ever heel and toe shifter on my R18... 3 weeks now.... got wunderlich bigger pegs.... moved the front (toe) shifter to the inside.... inverted the heel shifter... moving the peg to the other side.... almost there.....

I have moved the toe shifter down.... so I can move my foot forward without it getting in the way.... but still shift down positively.... the heel shifter is as low as it can go without fowling the exhaust... and extends out far enough to prevent hitting the side stand by accident.

I sorta like how it's different.
 
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I have been adjusting to my first ever heel and toe shifter on my R18... 3 weeks now.... got wunderlich bigger pegs.... moved the front (toe) shifter to the inside.... inverted the heel shifter... moving the peg to the other side.... almost there.....

I have moved the toe shifter down.... so I can move my foot forward without it getting in the way.... but still shift down positively.... the heel shifter is as low as it can go without fowling the exhaust... and extends out far enough to prevent hitting the side stand by accident.

I sorta like how it's different.
I'll have to give this a try. My toe shifter is okay but I would like the heel shifter to be lower. Unfortunately when I lower the heel shifter where I want it, it has interference from the exhaust shroud, preventing crisp up-shifts. I thought about putting a dimple in the shroud to remove the interference but will try your method first. Thanks!
 
Shifter can be adjusted, rear brake lever cannot.
My rear brake lever is higher than the peg and its annoying.
I have adjusted my rear pedal to lower it slightly, remove clip and screw the shaft inward then reattach the clevis pin. It dropped my pedal about 2 cm.
 
Sorry for the confusion I was referring to the rear brake pedal. I have moved my heel shifter downward by one spline and also rotated the toe shifter slightly higher so I can get my boot under it easier.
 
Shifter can be adjusted, rear brake lever cannot.
My rear brake lever is higher than the peg and its annoying.
I'm waiting on parts but I ordered the brake lever from a classic which is longer and looks like the extension for the shifter. Hope it works cause when cornering I rather use my rear brake than grabbing the front.
 
Shifter can be adjusted, rear brake lever cannot.
My rear brake lever is higher than the peg and its annoying.
Fwiw.... I have lowered my brake lever..... two things I did.... removed the spring clip and slid pin out then rotaded it.... fitting in a few turns to lower pedal.... then refitted..... then made a rubber stop about 5mm thick and glued it to the pedal stop so pedal is held down by 5mm at the pedal/frame stop.... then tested.

In testing one needs to ensure that the brake pedal still travels enough to not close off it's piston from the fluid reservoir when in the resting position .... and also the brake light is not activated at rest.... my r nine t has a micro switch at the pedal for this.... the r18 seems to use a fluid preasure switch so it doesn't seem to ba an issue.

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Eventually.... I'll remove the lever and drill and tap it to take a small bolt and lock nut to set the lever stop position.... removing the temp rubber spacer.... there appears to be enough metal to do that. I can understand how the pedal could be a bit forward.... 10-15 mm or so...
 
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