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Spring 2027 – BMW R18B Performance Upgrade Project

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1791081245#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter Vlad
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Vlad

Vlad

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Joined
Feb 12, 2026
Messages
27
Location
Maritimes
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Bike
2024 BMW R18B
I've got a small project planned for my 2024 R18 Bagger next spring, in late April 2027, after its scheduled 10,000 km BMW service.
I'll be making three modifications:
  1. Stock muffler modification: Drilling out the internal exhaust baffles using a hole saw and carbide burr to open them up while retaining the original mufflers, headers, catalytic converters and exhaust flappers.
  2. DNA Stage 2 Air Filter & Cover: Replacing the factory air filter and airbox cover with DNA's high-flow Stage 2 assembly.
  3. BT Moto Stage 1+ ECU Flash: Using their handheld programmer to recalibrate the ECU and hopefully improve throttle response, fueling and overall performance.
My goal isn't to create an obnoxiously loud motorcycle. I'm looking for a deeper exhaust rumble, smoother throttle response and a little more performance from that magnificent 1802cc Big Boxer.
I'm also planning to video the entire project, including the muffler drilling, DNA installation, ECU flashing process and, most importantly, a proper before-and-after exhaust sound comparison and road test.
I'll share the video and my impressions here once everything is completed. Hopefully, it'll help other R18 owners considering similar modifications.
Looking forward to seeing what this combination can do! Stay tuned.
 
Vlad said:
I've got a small project planned for my 2024 R18 Bagger next spring, in late April 2027, after its scheduled 10,000 km BMW service.
I'll be making three modifications:
  1. Stock muffler modification: Drilling out the internal exhaust baffles using a hole saw and carbide burr to open them up while retaining the original mufflers, headers, catalytic converters and exhaust flappers.
  2. DNA Stage 2 Air Filter & Cover: Replacing the factory air filter and airbox cover with DNA's high-flow Stage 2 assembly.
  3. BT Moto Stage 1+ ECU Flash: Using their handheld programmer to recalibrate the ECU and hopefully improve throttle response, fueling and overall performance.
My goal isn't to create an obnoxiously loud motorcycle. I'm looking for a deeper exhaust rumble, smoother throttle response and a little more performance from that magnificent 1802cc Big Boxer.
I'm also planning to video the entire project, including the muffler drilling, DNA installation, ECU flashing process and, most importantly, a proper before-and-after exhaust sound comparison and road test.
I'll share the video and my impressions here once everything is completed. Hopefully, it'll help other R18 owners considering similar modifications.
Looking forward to seeing what this combination can do! Stay tuned.
Click to expand...
Worth considering doing a couple of performance measurements..... say 2nd and 3rd gear 1500rpm to 4500rpm pulls.... before and after timings. Also worth noting max rpm fall off...... for me it was 4800 then DNA, end cans and bren tune 5,200 and then venting the filter area 5,500.

Most would think 5,500 in 3rd is not needed.... but with a quick overtake and "pull back in" it's nice to not have to change gear.... and have the engine braking on the "pull back in"".

Also once done, try 93 gas (98 ron over here) and see how the bottom end pull improves (ie. 4th gear from 1200rpm)

Then if really keen, after a few months remove the tune and ride..... then try and rationalise how it went backwards 2 steps, when you thought the tune only added one step!
 
Last edited:
Noelpolar said:
Worth considering doing a couple of performance measurements..... say 2nd and 3rd gear 1500rpm to 4500rpm pulls.... before and after timings. Also worth noting max rpm fall off...... for me it was 4800 then DNA, end cans and bren tune 5,200 and then venting the filter area 5,500.

Most would think 5,500 in 3rd is not needed.... but with a quick overtake and "pull back in" it's nice to not have to change gear.... and have the engine braking on the "pull back in"".

Also once done, try 93 gas (98 ron over here) and see how the bottom end pull improves (ie. 4th gear from 1200rpm)

Then if really keen, after a few months remove the tune and ride..... then try and rationalise how it went backwards 2 steps, when you thought the tune only added one step!
Click to expand...
I definitely agree that 98Ron makes a difference ⛽️
 
Yep, I agree too - I run a bog standard TransContinental and of all the mods, I suspect the 98 fuel octane rating is the big one. Switching fuel from 98 down to 91 certainly makes a very noticible difference in Rock, but also in Roll (and in my wallet too, at the end of the day).
 
I run 87 sometimes and dont notice a huge difference. Seems to run fairly well. The manual does not say not to run 87. It list it as an alternative. Since most stations sell more regular than premium, I am guessing I would probably get the first gallon of regular in the hose before the premium hits the tank anyway... lol

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BAD MIKE USA said:
I suppose the reason I never noticed the difference is because I never run anything but 93!
Click to expand...
As a weird aside, me to.

I did once ponder if the faster flame front of "lesser fossil farts" would see the R18 develop 0.7hp more at 5000rpm and above.... so I tried a tank or two. If it did I could not feel it. But, I did feel the loss down low in the rev range.... so hence forth, I have been a word spreader of such.

Generally, in our market, higher octane is marketed as a high performance thing that mostly high compression engines only benefit from.... but not so in my experience with some modern smart ecu's. My r9t benefits in a similar way.
 
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