U turns

Alan neill

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Hi there had a summer on bike getting familiar with it now due to winter coming starting to practice slow speed manoeuvres and the dreaded tight figure of 8s and u turns anybody going through or been through this learning curve appreciate any advice or tips 😀
 
Hi mate. I have not done anything like it in my B purely because I don’t have any crash bars fitted and I seriously don’t fancy dropping her anywhere.
Having said that, where I live there are a couple or really sharp 90 degrees bends I need to take with a bit of an incline, which I always thought were going to be a problem and they have never been.
Always look in the direction you want to travel even if that is not the direction the bike is facing, give the bike a bit of throttle ( just above tick over) and control the amount of power to the rear wheel with your clutch. Only use the rear break to come to a full stop or fine tune a bit of extra speed. My best friend was a stun rider and motorcycle instructor and always told me that, clutch control is the key and looking to where you want to go, never down.
 
Have you seen Jerry Palladino's videos? That helped me get the basics down. The bike is actually easier to maneuver at low speed than I expected, I guess having all that weight down low helps. I did invest in drop bars so that also made practice a little less stressful. I have a base model - no bags or fairing so it's a little lighter than the other versions but same principles apply.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf88EFO_GdwPw7XnVBl_0Iw
 
Coming off a GS Adventure, where I could easily make a U-Turn within two parking spaces; I was determined to get use to doing it on my R18 B.

I'm successful and pretty comfortable doing the U-Turn (turning left); I refreshed by watching the above mentioned videos and found an empty parking lot on a Sunday and slowly worked it out. I'm not an expert rider, and at least I know that the geometry of the bike allows it to be done, and without putting the bike down...

Practice makes Perfect...
 
Anything exceptionally challenging I would stick it in Roll and (although it sounds silly to say it out loud) really concentrate on what I was doing. No F ups. If in doubt power out. The TC or B may feel very different to mine, I’ve never ridden one.
 
Anything exceptionally challenging I would stick it in Roll and (although it sounds silly to say it out loud) really concentrate on what I was doing. No F ups. If in doubt power out. The TC or B may feel very different to mine, I’ve never ridden one.
Great suggestion... I started practicing in RAIN mode
 
Fwiw.... I do a fair bit of tight stuff on my r nine t scrambler and when I got my R18 I came away with the view that the R18 doesn't seem anywhere near as "stallable" when doing a tight turn.... you know.... the type of turn where if you get it a bit wrong the bike stalls and falls into the turn. It is like it has an anti stall "keep it running" for the idiot function..... maybe it is just more low down torque and rotational motor inertia.....

And another fwiw..... practise in the mode you always ride in is my view.... fine throttle control needs practise with a consistent throttle.... so I would not practise in roll mode if I always ride in rock mode (as I do).

And.... for really tight turns on this bike I tend to keep my body more upright on the bike ànd lean/push the bike down... "cop style" for tight U turns and car park stuff.... and off course some rear brake dragging as needed.
 
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Fwiw.... I do a fair bit of tight stuff on my r nine t scrambler and when I got my R18 I came away with the view that the R18 doesn't seem anywhere near as "stallable" when doing a tight turn.... you know.... the type of turn where if you get it a bit wrong the bike stalls and falls into the turn. It is like it has an anti stall "keep it running" for the idiot function..... maybe it is just more low down torque and rotational motor inertia.....
I agree with you. On the little experience I have on the B, I have not had any issues with not enough gas or any other condition that would have led to a stall. Maybe the idle is set up to a range slightly above the stalling point (unless you release the clutch mega fast)
In any case, like my old buddy used to say “ clutch control is key” for me at least has worked all these years riding.
 
I don't know about others here, but figure-8's aren't a big deal for me. The trick is to keep your head looking where you want to go and TRUST your bike to follow through. But, like riding a bike, things like this demand practice, and no amount of YT videos or Internet forums will ever prepare you for ACTUALLY getting in the saddle and just doing it!

Perhaps the biggest disadvantage on our R18's is they LOVE to scrape footpegs if you try narrow turns like a liter bike. So don't get bothered that your turning radius is that of a fat walrus 🤣

Sign up for an MSF course if you don't feel that self practice is sufficient.

Mike
 
I don't know about others here, but figure-8's aren't a big deal for me. The trick is to keep your head looking where you want to go and TRUST your bike to follow through. But, like riding a bike, things like this demand practice, and no amount of YT videos or Internet forums will ever prepare you for ACTUALLY getting in the saddle and just doing it!

Perhaps the biggest disadvantage on our R18's is they LOVE to scrape footpegs if you try narrow turns like a liter bike. So don't get bothered that your turning radius is that of a fat walrus 🤣

Sign up for an MSF course if you don't feel that self practice is sufficient.

Mike
Thank you for your advice wish there was msf courses in Scotland
 
Hi Alan,
Check around your area but where I am based there are training centres that do born again bikers courses, advanced training and things like that. I am also aware that for a fee the metropolitan police do these kind of things twice or three times a year on a set date.
Maybe worth asking your local CBT/DAS centre.
 
Fwiw.... I do a fair bit of tight stuff on my r nine t scrambler and when I got my R18 I came away with the view that the R18 doesn't seem anywhere near as "stallable" when doing a tight turn.... you know.... the type of turn where if you get it a bit wrong the bike stalls and falls into the turn. It is like it has an anti stall "keep it running" for the idiot function..... maybe it is just more low down torque and rotational motor inertia.....

And another fwiw..... practise in the mode you always ride in is my view.... fine throttle control needs practise with a consistent throttle.... so I would not practise in roll mode if I always ride in rock mode (as I do).

And.... for really tight turns on this bike I tend to keep my body more upright on the bike ànd lean/push the bike down... "cop style" for tight U turns and car park stuff.... and off course some rear brake dragging as needed.
The reason I suggest Roll is that it evens the idle and eliminates much of the shake and lumpiness, it’s a smoother platform to carry out something exceptional or delicate. Throttle control should be as good in any mode really. It’s for everyone to decide what they prefer.
 
Throttle control should be as good in any mode really.

I find one needs to twist the throttle a lot more in roll then rock for a similar motor response (so it impacts my throttle control).... on my scrambler I find this an issue at times.... and preffer a consistent bike response at all times.
 
The R18 doesn't have the best "gray area" clutch friction zone for slow tight uturns. Also, I find it hard to drag the rear brake due to the lever position. I have been able to complete figure 8s inside four parking stalls though. Really need to be good with your head and eyes and she loves counterbalance.
 
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