Valve adjust

D

David R

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5,000 miles, so I changed motor oil and filter, took out the top spark plugs,
Adjusted the valves, and changed the FD fluid again.

FD fluid looked good. First time looked terrible, but it did on my last new one.

I called MAX BMW for info, .2 to.3 mm for intake and exhaust. David was great. He even called me back on what the transmission holds. 1150 ml.

I used a Zip tie to find TDC. Both cylinders would take a.305mm or .012" on all valves. I don't think anything bigger would have fit. I did not try.
I used a .209 mm or .008" feeler gauge. I used a .229 mm or .009" as a no go gauge.
It was quieter after it picked up oil pressure. I did patiently fill the filter with new oil before I put it on.
 
Good info, Dave!
My R18 only has about 2500 miles on it, but I'm looking forward to checking the valves. It's sure gonna be a lot simpler than all of those Japanese multis that I've done for decades. Let alone the Ducati desmos!
 
@ 2700 RPM, it was clattery. I could hear the valve train. Especially when it was hot. Now I can barely hear the same noise.

The hotter the bike got, the louder it got at 2700.

It also idles worse in ROCK than it did before, Shakes, wiggles and basically idles like shit. Better in Roll or Rain.
The idle seems more "Spirited" Handlebars shake more in neutral on the side stand. The whole bike shakes in ROCK.

David
 
David R said:
@ 2700 RPM, it was clattery. I could hear the valve train. Especially when it was hot. Now I can barely hear the same noise.

The hotter the bike got, the louder it got at 2700.

It also idles worse in ROCK than it did before, Shakes, wiggles and basically idles like shit. Better in Roll or Rain.
The idle seems more "Spirited" Handlebars shake more in neutral on the side stand. The whole bike shakes in ROCK.

David
Click to expand...

Have you ever thought that the R18, in ROCK mode, seems to have a more pronounced irregular idle while sitting still, clutch disengaged and in first gear than it does in neutral, clutch engaged? I'm not sure if it's real or if I'm just imagining it. But if I put it in neutral at a stop light, it seems to idle more smoothly.
:unsure:
 
Mine seems to idle worse in neutral.

The bike idles slower in neutral than in gear. Lots of cars do that now. Its a gas saving thing.

Watch the tach and shift from N to 1 and see if there is a difference and back to N.

You can also change modes while its idling an watch the tach.

A big flywheel should make that bike idle so smooth.......and slow Put put put put put put put put put

I do not put my bike in neutral when sitting at an intersection.

I only put a few miles on yesterday. Going out in a few minutes with Misses R.

Enjoy the day and ride some!
David

There is a seat for everyone.
 
David R said:
5,000 miles, so I changed motor oil and filter, took out the top spark plugs,
Adjusted the valves, and changed the FD fluid again.

FD fluid looked good. First time looked terrible, but it did on my last new one.

I called MAX BMW for info, .2 to.3 mm for intake and exhaust. David was great. He even called me back on what the transmission holds. 1150 ml.

I used a Zip tie to find TDC. Both cylinders would take a.305mm or .012" on all valves. I don't think anything bigger would have fit. I did not try.
I used a .209 mm or .008" feeler gauge. I used a .229 mm or .009" as a no go gauge.
It was quieter after it picked up oil pressure. I did patiently fill the filter with new oil before I put it on.
Click to expand...
Hello David,
Valves setting intake and exhaust are the same as you mention ? 0.2 to 0.3mm . You used 0.21-0.22 mm . any idea what it would give at 0.28-0.29mm?
I can ear my valves quite strongly especially if i accelerate significantly from 1800 RPM, at idle as well there are quite noisy . i am thinking about checking them . Any advice?
Thank you .
 
.3mm = .11811 inches.

.010" is .254mm
.011" is .279mm

If they are loud, why would you set them to the biggest clearance?

I think they give a range even though the valves are screw adjustable, is so the technician can check them and not have to adjust them. If it was an exact spec, they would need adjusting every time.

David
 
I don t want to set them to the biggest clearance. It was just a question to try to understand the impact on the engine behaviour , if any , when valves are set at 0.21mm in one case and 0.29mm on the other one.
 
PhilBret said:
I don t want to set them to the biggest clearance. It was just a question to try to understand the impact on the engine behaviour , if any , when valves are set at 0.21mm in one case and 0.29mm on the other one.
Click to expand...
You always want to adjust them to the smallest clearance setting. Larger clearances are noisier and will see your valves open with 3-5° less duration. It can be a PITA, but it is worth that.
 
estoma said:
You always want to adjust them to the smallest clearance setting. Larger clearances are noisier and will see your valves open with 3-5° less duration. It can be a PITA, but it is worth that.
Click to expand...
There is one consideration to remember…be precise because as they wear they get tighter. A little “noisy” ain’t all bad. That said, if you’re going to religiously stay on your adjustments by all means set to the tighter spec. Just don’t wait until you hear them get noisy…they won’t.
 
Check them when the manual says.
My R1200R required adjustment at 20,000 miles. Still within spec at 75,000 miles.

It DOES affect valve timing.
David
 
Gaylord Poe said:
There is one consideration to remember…be precise because as they wear they get tighter. A little “noisy” ain’t all bad. That said, if you’re going to religiously stay on your adjustments by all means set to the tighter spec. Just don’t wait until you hear them get noisy…they won’t.
Click to expand...
Agreed. I initially check them at 12000 km (7500 miles), then at 30000 km (18000 km later) and then every 240000 km after that. My new Rocket 3R will go 32000 km (20000 miles) between valves clearance checks off the showroom floor, and Ducati now boasts 36000 km (22500 miles) on all new models.

It is easy on the R18. Most of my rides are V-twins, with shims, which makes it a lot more work - Ducati, KTM and EBR in particular. On the latter, you virtually need to split the bike in two - I own both a 1190SX and 1190RX. Already six years old, but they will rip a 2021 1290 Super Duke a new 4rsehole any day of the week.

12440475_1122912824387810_7084777316562885260_o.jpg
(photo courtesy KEDA)
 
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