Wilbers shock YES

[Petethepup]

I have read the few threads on Wilbers.

I installed the Type 640 shock today and a 35 mile test on my local, known-bumpy roads proved the shock is a huge improvement. Wow! The bumps that were jarring now aren’t. I like the 20mm extra length, I can feel it with feet planted.

Now for the fork springs. The new shock let me feel the harshness of the original fork springs/oil.

 

[Noelpolar]

I have read the few threads on Wilbers.

I installed the Type 640 shock today and a 35 mile test on my local, known-bumpy roads proved the shock is a huge improvement. Wow! The bumps that were jarring now aren’t. I like the 20mm extra length, I can feel it with feet planted.

Now for the fork springs. The new shock let me feel the harshness of the original fork springs/oil.

Congrats, you should find scraping will be reduced a bit as well.

Fwiw, I used their fork springs as well and added yss emulators (better on potholes etc).

 

[Petethepup]

My dealer printed off the shop manual pages. The manual for removing the fork cap makes it look like it’s under a zillion pounds of pressure and will launch to the moon. In all the other forks I’ve done, sure they are under pressure, but nothing a normal human can’t handle. My question: when removing the fork cap, do I need to worry about poking a hole in my roof, or is it something reasonable? TIA for any experiences with this.

 

[Noelpolar]

My dealer printed off the shop manual pages. The manual for removing the fork cap makes it look like it’s under a zillion pounds of pressure and will launch to the moon. In all the other forks I’ve done, sure they are under pressure, but nothing a normal human can’t handle. My question: when removing the fork cap, do I need to worry about poking a hole in my roof, or is it something reasonable? TIA for any experiences with this.

Not much preload on them.... what I'd call normal, I just put a rag on top and lean on them a bit... fork fully extended off course.

I have a theory that the earlier bikes (20 to 22ish) have thread locker on the fork caps, latter ones may not.... the thread locker made the fork caps the hardest to get off of the 5 or so bikes I've done.... 5/10 difficulty went to a 9 for basic home mechanic me.

Quite a lot of thread on them so lots of turns:

 

[Petethepup]

Oof, yeah a lot of goop. Thanks for your reply, very helpful.

 

[AdventureBoy]

Has anyone fitted a spacer, say 10mm under the top fork cap to bring the front up a tiny bit to help with scraping? I'll be raising the back as well after my shock is replaced under warranty - still waiting, no shocks in Aus sadly.

 

[Noelpolar]

Has anyone fitted a spacer, say 10mm under the top fork cap to bring the front up a tiny bit to help with scraping? I'll be raising the back as well after my shock is replaced under warranty - still waiting, no shocks in Aus sadly.

For me, scraping went away with the +20mm Wilbers shock.

As far as the forks go, I've not read anything from anybody much regarding the forks (mostly just the rare person doing wilbers fork springs).... nobody even seems to check fork sag etc ( mine was fine after the new springs). I'm the only one that I've seen doing emulators in the forks.

The cap on each fork keys into the top triple tree..... worth looking at a diagram to figure out how it could be done.... I preffer the slightly steeper fork angle anyhow.

 

[HUNTS]

Has anyone fitted a spacer, say 10mm under the top fork cap to bring the front up a tiny bit to help with scraping? I'll be raising the back as well after my shock is replaced under warranty - still waiting, no shocks in Aus sadly.

That’s a bit of a shock