Essential R18 Aftermarket Solutions

I use a flat scissors jack with the saddles positioned under the rear frame attachments both sides just ahead of the rear wheel, with another flat scissors jack with a wood spacer (no saddles) between it and the engine. I lift the rear first (until the tire is about 5" above the platform) and then lift the front until the bike starts to level out. This safely gets both wheels up. Keep the weight biased towards the rear because the rear saddles provide a wider stance.
That is an excellent workaround. I did not think of using the scissor jacks saddles. And I've got two scissor jacks. Thanks! May your children have wealthy parents (-:
 
The above post got me thinking about HOW we can pick up the R18 for stuff like wheel removal, etc.
I have a J&S Jack that I use to lift my Indian Roadmaster. Would it work for the R18?
The answer is not easily. Like most jacks that pick up the entire motorcycle, it normally would lift the bike by contacting the horizontal lower frame sections. But the lower loops of the chassis of R18 are higher than the exhaust system and a bunch of other "stuff" that's closer to the road and those parts are not something to rest 750 pounds on.

But waitaminnit! My Roadmaster doesn't have lower frame sections at all and the J&S Jack works great. That's because J&S makes a special pair of "adapters" that go onto the horizontal bars of the jack and those adapters contact four tough parts of the chassis where they terminate at the front & back engine mounts.

View attachment 1244

The R18 does have a couple of hard, welded-on chassis parts behind the engine that supports the mufflers. And the crankcase is a tough, flat bottomed item. Maybe an adapter can be fabricated for the jack that will safely lift the R18.

I've sent an email to J&S already asking about them making an adapter for the R18. Standby....

Just a word of caution - sh!t happens all the time. ALWAYS tie your bike to the lift jack. If it is tied down, the worst that can happen is tipping forwards or backwards (with the lift-jack). Easy to recover from and no damage to the bike. I use regular clam-type tie-down straps for that - never less than four - to each lift jack corner; loops are specifically provided on it for that reason.

The lift jack's lifting arms are spaced too wide apart for the R18 - the crankcase is tough but small. I would not jack onto those welded-on chassis appendices behind the engine that support the exhausts. The R18 is heavier aft than fore, and those appendices were not designed to support the bike's 4ss. I have several lift-jacks; here are my Chief Vintage (waiting on stuff) and Cross Country (receiving a raked front-end) on two. I am also using a scissor jack at the XC rear to compensate for the weight missing in the front.

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And here is my Rocket 3R on another while it put rim stripes on it. This photo was taken just before I tied it down to the lift-jack.

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They work well, but not in the case of the R18 - only my opinion, of course.
 
I use a flat scissors jack with the saddles positioned under the rear frame attachments both sides just ahead of the rear wheel, with another flat scissors jack with a wood spacer (no saddles) between it and the engine. I lift the rear first (until the tire is about 5" above the platform) and then lift the front until the bike starts to level out. This safely gets both wheels up. Keep the weight biased towards the rear because the rear saddles provide a wider stance.
With the stock exhaust and exhaust mounting brackets removed from the frame, the mounting holes make the perfect points to use the jack to lift the bike.
Piece of pie, easy as cake.
With the stock mufflers, the mufflers mounting brackets are in the way, you will be lifting the bike using the rear swing arm, not as stable as lifting using the bikes frame.



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With the stock exhaust and exhaust mounting brackets removed from the frame, the mounting holes make the perfect points to use the jack to lift the bike.
Piece of pie, easy as cake.
With the stock mufflers, the mufflers mounting brackets are in the way, you will be lifting the bike using the rear swing arm, not as stable as lifting using the bikes frame.



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The small saddles on my scissors jack contact the mounting brackets just slightly rear of the fame but ahead fo the swing arm and lifts/supports the bike perfectly without having to remove the mufflers and brackets.
 
The small saddles on my scissors jack contact the mounting brackets just slightly rear of the fame but ahead fo the swing arm and lifts/supports the bike perfectly without having to remove the mufflers and brackets.
Small saddle and small base on a scissors jack is unstable.
Have you actually tried removing the rear wheel or the front wheel with your setup?
Good luck.
 
Small saddle and small base on a scissors jack is unstable.
Have you actually tried removing the rear wheel or the front wheel with your setup?
Good luck.
Yes I have! And the support points are slightly wider in stance than what a center stand would provide. Of course "your mileage may vary" but I will not post anything of advice on this or any forum if not tried and trued by me in my shop, on my lift, with my tools.
 
I have the hattech r18/2 concept exhaust and I use holan hard panniers for saddle bags. The hattech shorty pipes sound great.
 

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Could you post a picture of the setting ?
Thanks.
I've another bike on the bench at the moment and (hopefully) won't have the R18 back on the bench for a while (knock on wood) to effect a decent picture. But that said, take a look at the attached file. You'll see where I drew an arrow that points to a place just to the rear of the "eye" that the front of the muffler slides into. You'll see where the muffler support bracket bolts into the main frame with two bolts. If you place your saddles on each side right below where the rear bolt attaches to the frame you can lift the rear safely and easily. The saddles on my scissors jack are screw-type adjustable (I believe most are) and you can turn them to just the right angle to get a perfect purchase under the rear frame. With my lift there's "just enough" clearance to still spin your rear wheel.
 

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The above post got me thinking about HOW we can pick up the R18 for stuff like wheel removal, etc.
I have a J&S Jack that I use to lift my Indian Roadmaster. Would it work for the R18?
The answer is not easily. Like most jacks that pick up the entire motorcycle, it normally would lift the bike by contacting the horizontal lower frame sections. But the lower loops of the chassis of R18 are higher than the exhaust system and a bunch of other "stuff" that's closer to the road and those parts are not something to rest 750 pounds on.

But waitaminnit! My Roadmaster doesn't have lower frame sections at all and the J&S Jack works great. That's because J&S makes a special pair of "adapters" that go onto the horizontal bars of the jack and those adapters contact four tough parts of the chassis where they terminate at the front & back engine mounts.

View attachment 1244

The R18 does have a couple of hard, welded-on chassis parts behind the engine that supports the mufflers. And the crankcase is a tough, flat bottomed item. Maybe an adapter can be fabricated for the jack that will safely lift the R18.

I've sent an email to J&S already asking about them making an adapter for the R18. Standby....

BMW has a standard adapter for the R18.
part# 83305A24474 adadpter scherenheber 150 euro excl VAT

the picture is of mine, modified a bit for my lift
 

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I would think that this K&L lift would work:

 
I’m looking to lift my bike somehow. I’m wondering if I could find someone to rig an adaptor to bridge the threaded holes for center stand and those on the engine. Then lift with standard motorcycle floor Jack…
 
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