ALMOST was a DIY on installing battery trickle charger, but stopped when realized bike might not like direct trickle charging (photos in thread)

Just for newbies ( like me ) I have just bought the Optimate4 BMW CanBus version (£69) and it arrived in the post yesterday. Read the instructions, plugged it into the CanBus socket and switched on. Bike was off BTW. It ‘woke’ the bike up itself, went through its cycles and after a couple of hours settled on two green lights 👍👍. All good. I couldn’t get the BMW trickle charger for that price and availability seemed more difficult so went with the Optimate4 after taking advice on the forum. Very pleased with it. Happy R18 too. View attachment 6504
Rufus,

I've never heard of this product, VERY cool!
I guess I need to burn more hours perusing the forum for other cool random tech and toys for our bikes...🤓

But, given this is also a "smart" charger like the BMW, my money is that it also has a CPU and software that's sending some code pulse down the 12v line to "wake" the CanBus line up. The trick for me to figure out how to capture that pulse and see if I can replicate it.

Clearly, Optimate did ;)

Lastly, is it me, or does this picture look like something straight from a COSTCO ad? Maybe it's the colors.

Mike
 
Rufus,

I've never heard of this product, VERY cool!
I guess I need to burn more hours perusing the forum for other cool random tech and toys for our bikes...🤓

But, given this is also a "smart" charger like the BMW, my money is that it also has a CPU and software that's sending some code pulse down the 12v line to "wake" the CanBus line up. The trick for me to figure out how to capture that pulse and see if I can replicate it.

Clearly, Optimate did ;)

Lastly, is it me, or does this picture look like something straight from a COSTCO ad? Maybe it's the colors.

Mike
Hi Mike,
Yes the picture is a lift off the Internet. This morning I’ve taken a better one of the box PLUS an action shot, just for you 😉. I already had normal chargers but they won’t work ( I now know why) but prior to buying this bike I could have wasted money on something that‘s no good. It’s not just about getting a new accessory socket DIN plug and swapping ends (as I had hoped). Since joining the forum it seems there’s a steady trickle of new owners and being one of them I wanted to help others make an informed choice. You may have other brands that we don’t get over here too.🤷‍♂️7B9311AD-64E6-4B79-83DD-14BB4831C7E2.jpeg4B5C9CE4-2EBE-4E20-A912-791993649B99.jpeg
 
Rufus, where did you buy the "Optimate4 BMW CanBus" unit?
 
From a place called Nippy Norman’s. They have been doing BMW parts for donkeys years and know them inside out. I ordered online. The service was excellent.
Thanks for that info.
 
Hi Mike,
Yes the picture is a lift off the Internet. This morning I’ve taken a better one of the box PLUS an action shot, just for you 😉. I already had normal chargers but they won’t work ( I now know why) but prior to buying this bike I could have wasted money on something that‘s no good. It’s not just about getting a new accessory socket DIN plug and swapping ends (as I had hoped). Since joining the forum it seems there’s a steady trickle of new owners and being one of them I wanted to help others make an informed choice. You may have other brands that we don’t get over here too.🤷‍♂️View attachment 6522View attachment 6523
Digging the action shot. Pity the lights aren't red. Hanging like that, in the dark, it would be hilarious to see the reaction of a passerby, not knowing WHAT it is! :ROFLMAO:

Mike
 
From what I can see the optimate 4 canbus version does a great job.

The main difference that is obvious between this & the BMW unit, is that the BMW charger spells it out in words & %s as to what it is doing in the charge cycle. The optimate has colour coded lights.

Also, I would say that the BMW charger has been made to be wall mounted, wheras the optimate kindof seems to be a trailing unit left on the floor.

I'd like to think the BMW charger is doing something more clever, but not sure it is!
 
From what I can see the optimate 4 canbus version does a great job.

The main difference that is obvious between this & the BMW unit, is that the BMW charger spells it out in words & %s as to what it is doing in the charge cycle. The optimate has colour coded lights.

Also, I would say that the BMW charger has been made to be wall mounted, wheras the optimate kindof seems to be a trailing unit left on the floor.

I'd like to think the BMW charger is doing something more clever, but not sure it is!
Hand on heart, if the BMW unit had been more or less the same price and as readily available (in UK stock) I would have bought that instead but as far as I could see it wasn’t so that made the decision easy for me really. The instructions do say to hang it, not really sure why (cooling?) so it does look a bit ‘heath Robinson’ but otherwise I am very happy with it. Less than £1 a year to run continually according to the instruction booklet……
 
Just for newbies ( like me ) I have just bought the Optimate4 BMW CanBus version (£69) and it arrived in the post yesterday. Read the instructions, plugged it into the CanBus socket and switched on. Bike was off BTW. It ‘woke’ the bike up itself, went through its cycles and after a couple of hours settled on two green lights 👍👍. All good. I couldn’t get the BMW trickle charger for that price and availability seemed more difficult so went with the Optimate4 after taking advice on the forum. Very pleased with it. Happy R18 too. View attachment 6504
Bought one as well..... (y)
 
Bought one as well..... (y)
Great. The instructions made more sense after a day or two of watching it work to be honest. After first switching it on it took about 4 or 5 hours to eventually settle on the two green lights. It goes through cycles and the lights do a merry little dance too.

Then every so often (when on a settled double green) it fires up a flashing yellow light aswell to advise it’s doing system checks. I basically ignore it now when in the garage, I only mention it because if you are anything like me you get fixated on what it’s doing and wonder if it’s all ok. It is.
 
I went ahead and spent a ton of pennies on BMW part # 77022470951, this guy:

View attachment 6214
I wanted to make sure I got a "microprocessor-controlled" unit :rolleyes: as BMW is boasting this battery tender is. If anyone's interested to read what the specs of this unit is, here's a link to a sales page:

https://www.shopbmwmotorcycle.com/products/bmw-motorcycles-can-bus-battery-charger and no, I didn't pay full MSRP ;), I found a new in box unit for cheaper.

Now, I play the waiting game and look out for the delivery person...

Mike
Where did you find one cheaper?
 
Keehn - thank you the detailed write and congrats on the new bike(s); good find regarding the heat shield rubber standoff (the do easily pop-off).

My dealership included the new BMW charger (in below picture) at the time that I purchased my R18 B; I already had an older BMW charger for my GS Adventure, but "if-it-is-free, it-is-for-me". NOTE: 2008 R1200 which I never removed the battery to charge, I always left it on the trickle charger over the Winter seasons; I only remember replacing the battery once in 2015. Also included, the dealership pre-installed one of those typical pigtails for a trickle charger; the same connector that is used on my older charger, which is probably the same connector used on all of our bikes (as least I imagine so..). I'm actually thinking of removing the pigtail, since I plug the new charger directly into the accessory outlet as depicted below:

The installed pig-tails are nothing more than two leads which are connected directly to the positive and negative terminals of the battery, I can't see how the "CANBUS" has anything to do with this circuit; the trickle charger is just a rectifier, it converts or rectifies 110V AC (here in the US) to 12V DC.

Batteries are just chemistry, typically for the most part, we have an AGM type battery installed on our R18 bikes; AGM is a lead-acid design, where the new BMW trickle charger can accommodate a Lithium (Li) chemistry type battery. (Li) type batteries require a whole battery management system (BMS), which monitors and controls the battery in order to avoid a catastrophic release of energy, resulting in a fire. Li unfortunately keeps the FDNY busy, as knock-off Li scooters and such often fail, resulting in an apartment fire.

In short, AGM and Li type batteries are charged differently; there are positives & negative (no pun intended) between the two. The newer charger can accommodate a Li type battery, which I'm sure we will start to see within the automotive industry beyond Tesla and such for starting engine type vehicles.

I simply plug my charger into the accessory outlet of my R18, it's easier than the older pig-tail type connector and the charger handles the rest (set it & forget it); however, I'm sure if I charged my bike's battery with the older charger, using the "pre-installed pig-tail" all would also be well... I'll test it when I return from today's ride and report back ONLY if there is an observed issue..

1663493083559.png


Slightly off topic... does anyone know what the compartment and connector depicted below used for? (RH Side)

1663495356521.png
 
Nope. But it looks like it could take a rubber strap to hold something in place. It must have some purpose to have been made and fitted.
 
Now I’m curious to know also. Someone here has the answer.
 
I was really debating on whether or not to bother posting any of these photos, as I never actually installed my "Battery Tender" direct battery terminal to trickle charger leads. However, given how new our bikes are, and the dearth of photos and really ANY technical information on the interwebs concerning the R18's, I thought that maybe SOMEONE out in the internet might get some use out of my photos.

While flipping through my owners manual like a "Which-way" book during "battery removal", I happened upon BMW's recommendation that direct charging the battery should take place OFF the motorcycle. BMW makes a trickle charger for our R18's that apparently is on-board computer friendly (translates: won't void warranty). While a DIY of me obtaining said BMW charger, then plugging it into one of the power plugs on the bike is hardly a compelling forum read, I did learn a couple things about our bikes that (in my own experience) are different from prior generations.

1. The side panels ARE 100% plastic and flexible. While they are reminiscent of the metal/plastic covers of the r1200c bikes, the tines on these covers are also plastic. The rubber grommets on the frame however, are still rubber grommets. Benefit of side covers being 100% plastic? FAR less chance of them vibrating loose and literally flying off the bike while cruising down the road, as well as being more amenable to plastic repair methods, should any tines break down the road. Downside? Well...they're plastic? Maybe they'll be more likely to break with UV damage over time? I'd say just take care of your bike and you "should" be just fine.

2. When removing the side chrome exhaust pipe covers, particularly the section needed to remove the passenger footrest, you will very likely either break off or unseat the small anti-vibration rubber bushings that the chrome piece squeezes against. I don't really see any way to avoid this unless you know to remove the clamping tension with both your hands while gently pulling the cover piece off. I couldn't fit those photos in with this post, so I'll put the bushings into the very next post down from this one.

Recommendation for the rubber bushings: Either have JB Weld handy (like I did) or know about these rubber bushings ahead of time and order a couple extra from the dealer and just expect to replace one or more when/if you need to remove the chrome side exhaust covers.

Anyways, here they are in order:

View attachment 6199
Parked and ready for the trickle charger install (or, so we thought at this time).


View attachment 6200
Right-hand cover removed. Note the four rubber grommets that the plastic tines fit into. Also the side panel is surprisingly flexible, so don't feel like you're about to break anything if you need to flex the panel a little. However, common sense must prevail...don't beat on it if you aren't getting it to fit, just start with the top-angled grommet, then feel with your fingers for the bottom two tines and grommet connections, then press inwards with your palm. These panels don't give any sort of "CLICK" noise or feel when installed, so make sure you press firmly but not overly-hard over each tine location to ensure the panel is 100% secure.

I say this because when I went to remove my left-hand panel, my bottom-two tines were hanging loose! :oops: Note this is the first time I've EVER done anything to this bike.

And, if I'm not mistaken, the box contained within the frame is the rear ABS unit (given the brake lines on top 😜). Behind the ABS unit is the NEGATIVE side of the battery by the way.

View attachment 6201
And a shot of each right-hand side panel tine location. Note how the top-most tine is facing towards the front of the motorcycle? You'll want to install this tine first when reinstalling the entire panel.


View attachment 6202
Moving to the left-hand side.


View attachment 6206
Here's the ODB-II diagnostic plug on the very top in its holding plug. The white box inside with the QR code is the AGM battery, but first I needed to remove the left-side passenger peg and chrome exhaust cover.

Also note the location of the grommets. The bottom two grommets are part of the battery cover itself and this is what was loose when I went to remove my cover.


View attachment 6203
Again, a repeat shot of the tines, just left-hand side this go-around.


View attachment 6207
Removal of the left-hand passenger foot peg. None of this is difficult to do, and the only reason I was wearing gloves was to keep MY dirty prints off the shiny chrome! 😆


View attachment 6204
My next post down from this will show the exhaust cover, but it does need to be removed in order to take out the bottom foot peg bolt.


View attachment 6205
I then took off the battery cover and at this point realized what BMW was saying in the owners manual about directly charging batteries on the bike...

Part two coming momentarily.

Mike
Side plates are metal on my FE. Here is one with the first edition holes welded up.
 

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Keehn - thank you the detailed write and congrats on the new bike(s); good find regarding the heat shield rubber standoff (the do easily pop-off).

My dealership included the new BMW charger (in below picture) at the time that I purchased my R18 B; I already had an older BMW charger for my GS Adventure, but "if-it-is-free, it-is-for-me". NOTE: 2008 R1200 which I never removed the battery to charge, I always left it on the trickle charger over the Winter seasons; I only remember replacing the battery once in 2015. Also included, the dealership pre-installed one of those typical pigtails for a trickle charger; the same connector that is used on my older charger, which is probably the same connector used on all of our bikes (as least I imagine so..). I'm actually thinking of removing the pigtail, since I plug the new charger directly into the accessory outlet as depicted below:

The installed pig-tails are nothing more than two leads which are connected directly to the positive and negative terminals of the battery, I can't see how the "CANBUS" has anything to do with this circuit; the trickle charger is just a rectifier, it converts or rectifies 110V AC (here in the US) to 12V DC.

Batteries are just chemistry, typically for the most part, we have an AGM type battery installed on our R18 bikes; AGM is a lead-acid design, where the new BMW trickle charger can accommodate a Lithium (Li) chemistry type battery. (Li) type batteries require a whole battery management system (BMS), which monitors and controls the battery in order to avoid a catastrophic release of energy, resulting in a fire. Li unfortunately keeps the FDNY busy, as knock-off Li scooters and such often fail, resulting in an apartment fire.

In short, AGM and Li type batteries are charged differently; there are positives & negative (no pun intended) between the two. The newer charger can accommodate a Li type battery, which I'm sure we will start to see within the automotive industry beyond Tesla and such for starting engine type vehicles.

I simply plug my charger into the accessory outlet of my R18, it's easier than the older pig-tail type connector and the charger handles the rest (set it & forget it); however, I'm sure if I charged my bike's battery with the older charger, using the "pre-installed pig-tail" all would also be well... I'll test it when I return from today's ride and report back ONLY if there is an observed issue..

View attachment 7023


Slightly off topic... does anyone know what the compartment and connector depicted below used for? (RH Side)

View attachment 7024
Although it’s a stupid place to put it, I wonder if that’s where the OEM tracker goes if you select that option.
 
Side plates are metal on my FE. Here is one with the first edition holes welded up.
Metal on the R18/C and plastic on the B/TC. Not sure why, it does seem like BMW made less effort on my B than my previous R18 when you look around up close but then there is a lot more wiring to hide.
 
Keehn - thank you the detailed write and congrats on the new bike(s); good find regarding the heat shield rubber standoff (the do easily pop-off).

My dealership included the new BMW charger (in below picture) at the time that I purchased my R18 B; I already had an older BMW charger for my GS Adventure, but "if-it-is-free, it-is-for-me". NOTE: 2008 R1200 which I never removed the battery to charge, I always left it on the trickle charger over the Winter seasons; I only remember replacing the battery once in 2015. Also included, the dealership pre-installed one of those typical pigtails for a trickle charger; the same connector that is used on my older charger, which is probably the same connector used on all of our bikes (as least I imagine so..). I'm actually thinking of removing the pigtail, since I plug the new charger directly into the accessory outlet as depicted below:

The installed pig-tails are nothing more than two leads which are connected directly to the positive and negative terminals of the battery, I can't see how the "CANBUS" has anything to do with this circuit; the trickle charger is just a rectifier, it converts or rectifies 110V AC (here in the US) to 12V DC.

Batteries are just chemistry, typically for the most part, we have an AGM type battery installed on our R18 bikes; AGM is a lead-acid design, where the new BMW trickle charger can accommodate a Lithium (Li) chemistry type battery. (Li) type batteries require a whole battery management system (BMS), which monitors and controls the battery in order to avoid a catastrophic release of energy, resulting in a fire. Li unfortunately keeps the FDNY busy, as knock-off Li scooters and such often fail, resulting in an apartment fire.

In short, AGM and Li type batteries are charged differently; there are positives & negative (no pun intended) between the two. The newer charger can accommodate a Li type battery, which I'm sure we will start to see within the automotive industry beyond Tesla and such for starting engine type vehicles.

I simply plug my charger into the accessory outlet of my R18, it's easier than the older pig-tail type connector and the charger handles the rest (set it & forget it); however, I'm sure if I charged my bike's battery with the older charger, using the "pre-installed pig-tail" all would also be well... I'll test it when I return from today's ride and report back ONLY if there is an observed issue..

View attachment 7023


Slightly off topic... does anyone know what the compartment and connector depicted below used for? (RH Side)

View attachment 7024
Please note that the CANbus connector works anywhere on the bike. I hook up my charger at the dashboard where the heated gear is meant to draw power from. It saves me from bending down to use the port nearest to the footplate.

Right now I'm using the LiFePO4 charging capability of the BMW charger. I have a bunch of those batteries in 12v configuration I bought from a teardown of several EV trucks a couple years back. I'm installing several of the batteries into my class-a motorhome, so I'm using the charger to top up the charge before I install them into the RV chassis. However, the BMW charger has to be told it's charging lithium by selecting the menu, then changing the battery type. Once that's complete, it's off to the races!

Mike
 
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