Key Fob/Battery issue

As and Elderly user, I will tell you, keep a spare in your wallet. A good Pass Key is good to have as well...... When my R1250 RS died in the basement parking garage late one Monday, I was cold and tired and that was just the start.... Damn Fob..... Make sure you know how to prepare the new battery and put it in the FOB....
 
The low battery (fob) icon came on today. It’s probably two years old anyway so I am not overly concerned (yet!). Just ordered some decent replacements. Out of interest how do you turn your bikes off? Kill switch or power button off? I did look in the handbook but it wasn’t clear (unless I missed it). Never had a keyless bike before so it still feels a bit strange.
 
With my experience here, the replacement battery had a thin plastic wafer on the back of the battery, you need pull that off or it will not give your bike the Juice it needs to work. I found that out the hard way, I did not see the film on the back of the battery.... it was one hell of a day....
 
buellwinkle said:
With my experience here, the replacement battery had a thin plastic wafer on the back of the battery, you need pull that off or it will not give your bike the Juice it needs to work. I found that out the hard way, I did not see the film on the back of the battery.... it was one hell of a day....
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Thanks for the tip 👍
 
I carry a spare battery for my fob in the packet with my registration and insurance information.
 
VARG said:
I carry a spare battery for my fob in the packet with my registration and insurance information.
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I replaced the battery in my fob yesterday (removed the film from the back of the battery 👍, without reading glasses on would never have even see it!). All good now. I have a new spare battery and while doing it wondered if any of you kept a spare with the bike because it’s so easy to swap out yet such a PITA if the fob battery fails for some reason. Think I will maybe tape it under the seat.
 
JeffwithaG said:
I bought my R18 in April, and in May the bike would not recognize the key. I thought the fob battery had failed so I replaced it. Now its July, I have the same problem again. The low battery light did not come on, just the key is not recognized. This time I took the battery out and reseated it. Looks like a defective fob. Anyone else had this issue?
Geoff
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Does the problem only happen at a specific location; perhaps your house, work location or garage where you keep the bike? I've seen motion sensor flood lights and such that have gone into a failed state, where they cause RF interference with vehicle key FOB functionality and such; maybe you or your neighbor has a rogue flood light with a faulty motion sensor that is transmitting RF interference in the same frequency band as used for the key FOB?

As mentioned in another reply, the antenna is located under the seat; maybe check the antenna cable for any damage (kinks or tight bends, crushed flat spots, etc.) - not sure if the antenna uses coaxial cable from the receiver to the antenna?

Just a thought... I'd hate to hear that you're giving up on the bike; maybe move the bike to a different location and see if you can reproduce the problem.
 
I’m very new to this keyless ride plus the RBW throttle come to mention it. I read elsewhere that these systems can be very sensitive to external things such as electrical interference or magnets. As it happens I only have a small and very basic old Nokia mobile phone so not sure if that makes any difference or not but it’s not activated for wi-fi or Bluetooth or anything racy. I do wear a copper bracelet aswell that has very small magnets in it (supposed to help with blood circulation but might well be another con. Who knows?). Anyhow I have swapped it from my right to left wrist because of what I read incase these magnets do meddle with the RBW electronics. I remember as a kid if you put a magnet up to the tv screen it screwed the picture up, maybe there is something bizarre happening here. I hope you get things sorted and get your confidence back with it.
 
It took another dealer several weeks to fix the issue with my bike after having electrical issues as mentioned in my first post. The dealer said it was a loose ground somewhere on the bike that they had to trace to. They weren’t sure if this was it but they tightened it and it has been good so far. I also had an issue with bmw customer service as they didn’t seem to care about the issue. It didn’t help that the first dealer that tried to fix it (the one I bought it from) just blamed it on a bad battery and then wouldn’t touch it after they replaced it the first time it left me stranded. Anyway maybe a loose ground is causing the issues with your key fob as well as many of the electronics on my bike would randomly fail, the key fob and power button being the most concerning as if left me stranded beside the road. Keep us posted on ur bike.
 
JeffwithaG said:
I bought my R18 in April, and in May the bike would not recognize the key. I thought the fob battery had failed so I replaced it. Now its July, I have the same problem again. The low battery light did not come on, just the key is not recognized. This time I took the battery out and reseated it. Looks like a defective fob. Anyone else had this issue?
Geoff
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I confirmed it was the fob contact with the battery. I removed the fob cover and the battery literally falls out. One cm (half inch) of sticky tape fixed my problem.
 
As I understand it, the fob sensor lives under the driver seat. I always keep my key in my right saddlebag velcro’d to the inner wall, so it’s easy to reach and doesn’t go flying everywhere when I’m riding.

Because I also keep my wallet and phone case down there, it’s easy for me to remember to remember removing it when I park.

But, that’s just me 🤷‍♂️

Mike
 
Is it possible you are putting the BMW fob in the same pocket as, or a pocket next to, a car fob? I had the problem if intermittent code "no key" myself. It SEEMS as though when I put my truck fob and BMW fob on opposite sides of my pants it hasn't happened again. Might just be a coincidence.
 
1068mark said:
Thought I would update this post for those that are interested. No luck in getting decent support from BMW Customer Relations and the dealership. I dropped the bike off prior to heading out on vacation with family and they have now had the bike for 2+ weeks with no response. I know some of you out there have had the same fault appear on their R18's, but I will not be keeping the bike based upon the lackluster support from BMW or dealer. I am SO disappointed in BMW and their response, or lack thereof. I have been a staunch supporter of BMW motorcycles for 20+ years now. I am so frustrated with them that I am even considering getting rid of my other BMW motorcycle as a result.
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You can forget help from BMW NA. They have become a black hole whose mission is to bury your issue. I went round and round with them for a year on a defective engine. Imagine how little they care about your key.
 
JeffwithaG said:
I confirmed it was the fob contact with the battery. I removed the fob cover and the battery literally falls out. One cm (half inch) of sticky tape fixed my problem.
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Still good? I just bought a 2021 first edition and I am having the same problem. Get the red led on the multifunction display most times I hit ignition. So far it goes into self check and starts - but sometimes I have to hit ignition 3x before self check happens - I get red led only indicating it can’t find a key. Then I tend to get an intermittent warning light/key/? Icon as I drive. Few seconds at a time. Doesn’t build confidence.

Fob Battery change did nothing.

Paid $400 for a new fob and it arrives tomorrow - not expecting improvement but will be happy if I get it.

If that doesn’t work I guess I go for bike antenna change and maybe battery too.

Wondering if this will solve it or if the prior owner sold it for this reason and didn’t tell me.

None of its an issue if I don’t get stranded but sucks the joy out of it thinking each time bike might not fire up
 
I looked up the FCC ID on my key FOB and found the FCC report; it's a pretty complex security system, which uses a bunch of RF frequencies within the controller and the KEY FOB.

Perhaps there is something that is causing interference between the Controller and KEY FOB; I've personally seen a Motion Sensor Flood Light cause enough RF interference, which affected folks from being able to LOCK or UNLOCK their vehicles using their wireless OEM Key FOB, if parked within 500' to 700' of their neighbor's garage (Flood Light was mounted high up and center of the garage door).

i.e. There's a stretch of highway on RT. 17 in NJ, where I lose the navigation map view on my R18 B briefly, every single time I pass through that particular area; I'm sure that there is some rouge Wi-Fi emitter in the area which is interfering with the Wi-Fi link between my phone and the TFT Infotainment system on my bike.

Questions:
  1. Does the problem only seem to rear its ugly head at specific places, locations or when riding alongside with other friends?
    • Maybe something installed on your buddy's bike?
  2. Is there anything that you recently installed on your bike, especially anything that required 12 V power?
    • GPS, L.E.D. Lights, DASH Camera, Bluetooth Sound system, etc.
  3. Is there anything new that you introduced on your person?
    • Wireless Helmet Blue-Tooth Speaker-Microphone, Body Camera, etc.
See Below the Technical details, maybe it will help troubleshoot this problem:

1683972763739.png
Technical System Description Keyless Ride BMW Motorrad
Project designation: Keyless Ride BMW Motorrad


  • Keyless Ride ECU operates the ECU function sequences based received messages and signals
  • Rx interface and RF-antenna for unidirectional HF- communication
  • Rx /Tx interface and LF-antenna for bidirectional LF- communication
  • External Tank Cap Button to wake up the ECU and steer the tank cap bolt coil
  • WL / Wake Up Line used to wake up the ECU
  • KL15 output steered by the Keyless Ride ECU
  • CAN for communication via bus used as well as a continuous vehicle speed monitor
  • Keyless Ride ID device. It defines and match a legal user and activates / deactivates central lock-
  • ing and anti-theft alarm.
  • ECU internal RF antenna
  • Steering column bolt
  • CAN interface
3.2 System Functionalities

3.2.1 Keyless Ride in far field communication
A pressed button S0 placed on the KR-ECU causes switching on the external vehicle LF- antenna. A
message is sent out via a LF-field up to an operating distance of 1m. When an ID device is matched in
this range, it will be woken up. The ID device itself answers via the HF-filed by a message back to the
KLR-ECU and the steering column is locked or unlocked as well as the ignition is switched ON/OFF. The
HF-filed operates in a range up to 10 m.

3.2.2 Immobilizer deactivation option in near field communication
In case that the wireless key’s power supply is too low for HF-communication, it is possible to place the
ID device directly on the LF- antenna ( distance ca. 3cm). After the button (S0) is pressed the ID device is
supplied by the induction field of the LF- antenna directly, waked up and now able to answer backwards
also via the adjacent LF- antenna.



Carrier frequency model HUF5750: 434.42 MHz
Carrier frequency model HUF5752: 315.00 MHz
Carrier frequency model HUF5794: 433.92 MHz
Output power model HUF5750*: < -19 dBm (RoW)
Output power model HUF5752**: < -15 dBm (Japan, TELEC-T244, 315 MHz)
Output power model HUF5794***: < 3 mW (South Korea)
Type of modulation: FSK
FSK deviation: ±20 kHz
Method of frequency generation: PLL
Number of channels: 1
RF baud rate: 7.5 kbps, tolerance≤0.3 %
LF frequency: 134.2 kHz
LF baud rate: 1,3 kbps, tolerance≤0.3 %
Immobilizer frequency (uplink): 123.2/134.2 kHz
Crystal unit HUF5750/HUF5794: 13.08148 MHz
Crystal unit HUF5752: 9.185183 MHz
Type of RF antenna: PCB Loop antenna
 
Moby_1851 said:
Still good? I just bought a 2021 first edition and I am having the same problem. Get the red led on the multifunction display most times I hit ignition. So far it goes into self check and starts - but sometimes I have to hit ignition 3x before self check happens - I get red led only indicating it can’t find a key. Then I tend to get an intermittent warning light/key/? Icon as I drive. Few seconds at a time. Doesn’t build confidence.

Fob Battery change did nothing.

Paid $400 for a new fob and it arrives tomorrow - not expecting improvement but will be happy if I get it.

If that doesn’t work I guess I go for bike antenna change and maybe battery too.

Wondering if this will solve it or if the prior owner sold it for this reason and didn’t tell me.

None of its an issue if I don’t get stranded but sucks the joy out of it thinking each time bike might not fire up
Click to expand...
Should still be under warranty? Did you ask your dealer to look at this issue? You shouldn’t be $400 out of pocket on this
 
Maybe check the antenna cable that is connected to the loop antenna located under the seat, check to see if maybe the seat's resting pads crushed or pinched the antenna cable; the antenna cable is probably a coaxial cable, any sharp bends, flat crushed patterns on the cable and such will create an impedance mismatch to the circuit, which will reduce any RF signal being received or transmitted.
 
Mine only failed totally when it was late at night and all dealers closed, and I was in the basement of a store downtown.,... argj@Q#R*@#R.. it took two tow truck divers over an hour to get my bike out of that basement.... shit ! ! !
 
Alex-B said:
Should still be under warranty? Did you ask your dealer to look at this issue? You shouldn’t be $400 out of pocket on this
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It is. Honestly didnt think of it. Service here sucks...almost not worth the fight - but yeah, $400 is $400. Just got it and trying to figrue out how to program it.
 
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