• Welcome to the BMW R18 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

My Beach Bar installation

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1789222567#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter MilwDave
  • Start date Start date
For me and I’m guessing for most people the stock risers will bring the bars too high and back to be comfortable. I used the risers in the photo which have a 1” rise and no pullback.
 
Where did you get that bracket mount to support your quad lock? I’m looking to mount a few things and like the idea of using the handle bar clamp bolts.
 
JAMUSAURUS said:
Where did you get that bracket mount to support your quad lock? I’m looking to mount a few things and like the idea of using the handle bar clamp bolts.
Click to expand...
You can buy them on Temu or eBay.
I bought it from Wunderlich and overpaid.
 
I finally "fished" all of the wiring through the beachbars in order to clean it up; mounted the Speedometer and Headlight with the Roland Sands Design accent pieces..

Cleared the front brake line of any air & visual air-bubbles, as well as the clutch line; however, the clutch pull still seems a little weak in terms of pressure and the bike won't turn-over now... I'm thinking the ECU doesn't think the clutch is pulled in..?

Thoughts or ideas in bleeding the clutch beyond what I've already completed up to this point?

Functionality wise, the bike powers up, directionals work, hazards work, headlight H/L beam works, I get the N neutral indicator when I move through the gears...

Screenshot_20241009-062045.webp
 
Star-Lord said:
I finally "fished" all of the wiring through the beachbars in order to clean it up; mounted the Speedometer and Headlight with the Roland Sands Design accent pieces..

Cleared the front brake line of any air & visual air-bubbles, as well as the clutch line; however, the clutch pull still seems a little weak in terms of pressure and the bike won't turn-over now... I'm thinking the ECU doesn't think the clutch is pulled in..?

Thoughts or ideas in bleeding the clutch beyond what I've already completed up to this point?

Functionality wise, the bike powers up, directionals work, hazards work, headlight H/L beam works, I get the N neutral indicator when I move through the gears...

View attachment 16066
Click to expand...
First question I have is did you use the BMW mineral oil in clutch reservoir?
The next thing I would check is the left and right wiring connectors where they plug in under the tank. They are similar and can be connected opposite of the correct side. BMW didn’t think that one through and there are no R or L markings if I remember correctly.
I had a similar issue when I did mine and the reversed wiring was the issue.
Good luck, I know that’s not what you want to hear but taking the tank back off isn’t all that difficult. Just be careful of that flimsy plastic fuel line fitting on the tank side of the fuel line.
 
100% - not what I want to hear; however, after reviewing pictures, I do see a Blue/Red trace - Brown connection on the Clutch side and a Blue/Black trace - Brown connection on the Brake side.

I'm thinking they are Directional Blinkers wiring or Heated Handgrip wiring though..?

I guess it's worth taking the tank off (ONLY AFTER I COMPLETELY Exhaust the clutch theory) and taking a closer look at the tracer colors, which I think should match on the other side of the connector?

The clutch feedback just feels too soft, and it didn't seem to take as long to expell the air as the brake side did...Screenshot_20241009-102813.webpScreenshot_20241009-103225.webp
 
Last edited:
The clutch is pretty soft on the R18 compared to most of my other bikes.
I’m sure you’ll discover a wiring issue somewhere.
 
MilwDave said:
The clutch is pretty soft on the R18 compared to most of my other bikes.
I’m sure you’ll discover a wiring issue somewhere.
Click to expand...
I was doing a side-by-side comparison of my Model B clutch to the FE clutch (not overly scientific); I agree, I'll just pop the tank off and give it a quick look.
 
Star-Lord said:
I was doing a side-by-side comparison of my Model B clutch to the FE clutch (not overly scientific); I agree, I'll just pop the tank off and give it a quick look.
Click to expand...
The problem of not starting was related to air in the clutch line; I had to turn the handlebars to the right, in order to create a steeper incline which produced more air bubbles...

Clutch pressure increased and Wa La - it started
 
Last edited:
Star-Lord said:
The problem of not starting was related to air in the clutch line; I had to turn the handlebars to the right, in order create a steeper incline which produces more air bubbles...

Clutch pressure increased and Wa La - it started
Click to expand...
Excellent news, good job!
 
NEW PROBLEM - MINOR ISSUE:

I noticed yesterday when I was riding over to the dealership, that the clutch lever was toggling the High-Beam Light each time I squeezed the Clutch to change gears.

I took a closer look, when I got the bike back home and I can see that the lever makes contact with the High-Beam switch; so I tried to adjust the placement of the Clutch Controls, but the Hydraulic Line is maxed out in terms of length and I don't want to stress the banjo connections.

I'm at the point where I am considering a grinding wheel and just removing enough plastic from the High-Beam switch to eliminate the physical contact.

Or, is there a STOP set screw setting that I can adjust on the Clutch Lever assembly to prevent the contact?
 
Star-Lord said:
NEW PROBLEM - MINOR ISSUE:

I noticed yesterday when I was riding over to the dealership, that the clutch lever was toggling the High-Beam Light each time I squeezed the Clutch to change gears.

I took a closer look, when I got the bike back home and I can see that the lever makes contact with the High-Beam switch; so I tried to adjust the placement of the Clutch Controls, but the Hydraulic Line is maxed out in terms of length and I don't want to stress the banjo connections.

I'm at the point where I am considering a grinding wheel and just removing enough plastic from the High-Beam switch to eliminate the physical contact.

Or, is there a STOP set screw setting that I can adjust on the Clutch Lever assembly to prevent the contact?
Click to expand...
Are you using the extended hydraulic lines?
 
Star-Lord said:
NEW PROBLEM - MINOR ISSUE:

I noticed yesterday when I was riding over to the dealership, that the clutch lever was toggling the High-Beam Light each time I squeezed the Clutch to change gears.

I took a closer look, when I got the bike back home and I can see that the lever makes contact with the High-Beam switch; so I tried to adjust the placement of the Clutch Controls, but the Hydraulic Line is maxed out in terms of length and I don't want to stress the banjo connections.

I'm at the point where I am considering a grinding wheel and just removing enough plastic from the High-Beam switch to eliminate the physical contact.

Or, is there a STOP set screw setting that I can adjust on the Clutch Lever assembly to prevent the contact?
Click to expand...
Do you have room to rotate the clutch lever down? Mine is under the high beam button
 
harrisrc740 said:
Do you have room to rotate the clutch lever down? Mine is under the high beam button
Click to expand...
I probably can rotate the controls; however, the beachbars have a placement dimple mark which is used to align the seam that the control clamp provides as a reference. I can try though ..

Below is an image showing the marking for the Brake Lever:

1728845939217.webp
 
By chance is the clutch line routed in a way that you’re not getting full extension?
 
MilwDave said:
The extended wiring harnesses are more than long enough to accommodate internal routing. In the video on YouTube they have to zip tie the considerable remaining length underneath the tank.
Removing the right side harness from the bars was tight (slathered with lithium grease from the factory) but I just needed to take my time to arrange the connectors properly before pulling them past the bends and not cause any damage. The beach bar has far gentler bends so getting the wires past the them will go easier.

View attachment 4126

Here is where I have questions. You have to ask yourself why the beach bar does not come with the slots milled from the factory to allow for internal wiring?
If you look closely you can see the ridge on the beach bar near the reduced grip area. I am not certain if this is a pressed-in segment. I did run a length of wire through the bar to make certain there is no solid sections inside the bar. But I will have to mill the slot near or over that seam. My next step is to endoscope the inside of the bars to see what I'm up against there.

View attachment 4125
Click to expand...
hi what was the part number handle bar extended wiring harnesses
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top