Exhaust Servo

[Ulrich]

I ordered that part and it said it didn't fit my 2021 but the other number given given 1185159 said in the "details" that it fit 2010 t0 2023 BMW. Both of these say it doesn't fit my 2021 R18, so I ordered both and will return the one that doesn't seem right. Great info on these pages, thanks to all of you.

Hmmm the link you posted leads to ones that look very different to the ones I used ... this is what I used "Servo Buddy BMW 2010-2023" ... and they are working beautifully

 

[OzR18]

I'm confused!
For context, I have a 2021 R18 FE - No mods.
I'd like to get a little more sounds from the standard fish-tail exhaust - I like the sounds it makes when I'm "pushing it", but it's very quiet under normal riding. If I could get the "pushing it" sound all the time, I'd be happy.
I've had BMW cars for years, with their exhaust servo / flaps, that can be disabled by removing the fuse - makes more difference in some cars than others - my current M140 it's hard to tell the difference.
I'm assuming that BMW uses similar servo/flap approach in their bikes (the R18 is my first BMW bike).

I've read this thread a couple of times and I'm confused.

Am I right is saying there's two alternatives to "disabling" the servo/flap so it stays in the open position:
1. Fiddle with the actuator (if that's the right term) that has the cable , spring, etc that makes the flap open & close, so it stays open
2. Use a "Servo Buddy" type of electrical devise that "tricks" the system so the flap stays open.

Is that right? Or do you need to do both to get the flap to stay open all the time?

Will getting the flap to stay open all the time give me the "pushing it" sound I'm after, all the time?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

 

[Cornel]

I'm confused!
For context, I have a 2021 R18 FE - No mods.
I'd like to get a little more sounds from the standard fish-tail exhaust - I like the sounds it makes when I'm "pushing it", but it's very quiet under normal riding. If I could get the "pushing it" sound all the time, I'd be happy.
I've had BMW cars for years, with their exhaust servo / flaps, that can be disabled by removing the fuse - makes more difference in some cars than others - my current M140 it's hard to tell the difference.
I'm assuming that BMW uses similar servo/flap approach in their bikes (the R18 is my first BMW bike).

I've read this thread a couple of times and I'm confused.

Am I right is saying there's two alternatives to "disabling" the servo/flap so it stays in the open position:
1. Fiddle with the actuator (if that's the right term) that has the cable , spring, etc that makes the flap open & close, so it stays open
2. Use a "Servo Buddy" type of electrical devise that "tricks" the system so the flap stays open.

Is that right? Or do you need to do both to get the flap to stay open all the time?

Will getting the flap to stay open all the time give me the "pushing it" sound I'm after, all the time?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

I will try to explain this as clearly as I can. The exhaust valve is connected to a servo motor that is electrically controlled by the Engine Control Module. The valve is also connected to a spring that holds it in the open position by default. There are three ways to ensure the valve stays open all the time:

1. Disconnect the two cables connecting the servo motor to the valve. This way the servo motor stays connected to the ECM and no fault codes are generated. The servo motoe continues to operate, but it's not controlling anything.

2. Disconnect the plug on the servo motor so it does not operate. You will need to purchase the Servo Buddy module and plug it in the harness replacing the servo motor to prevent fault codes.

3. Remove the servo motor and cables from the bike. You will need the Servo Buddy to prevent fault codes. This what I did.

Remember that you need two Servo Buddy modules because the R18 has 2 valves, one per side.

Hope this clears things up for you.

 

[OzR18]

I will try to explain this as clearly as I can. The exhaust valve is connected to a servo motor that is electrically controlled by the Engine Control Module. The valve is also connected to a spring that holds it in the open position by default. There are three ways to ensure the valve stays open all the time:

1. Disconnect the two cables connecting the servo motor to the valve. This way the servo motor stays connected to the ECM and no fault codes are generated. The servo motoe continues to operate, but it's not controlling anything.

2. Disconnect the plug on the servo motor so it does not operate. You will need to purchase the Servo Buddy module and plug it in the harness replacing the servo motor to prevent fault codes.

3. Remove the servo motor and cables from the bike. You will need the Servo Buddy to prevent fault codes. This what I did.

Remember that you need two Servo Buddy modules because the R18 has 2 valves, one per side.

Hope this clears things up for you.

Thanks for that summary - much appreciated.

If I pursue option 2., Do the servo Buddies plug into the harness and the servo motor for a complete circuit, or just the harness and servo buddy becomes the "end-point"?

Also, Since you've done this - in your opinion, do you feel I'll get the sound I'm after if I take this approach?

Thanks again

 

[Cornel]

Thanks for that summary - much appreciated.

If I pursue option 2., Do the servo Buddies plug into the harness and the servo motor for a complete circuit, or just the harness and servo buddy becomes the "end-point"?

Also, Since you've done this - in your opinion, do you feel I'll get the sound I'm after if I take this approach?

Thanks again

The Servo Buddy plugs into the wiring harness, replacing the servo motor. Nothing plugs into the servo motor.

As far as sound, it makes a bit of a difference at idle and low RPM. Since the ECM opens the valves at high RPM, these mods will not make any difference at that point.

 

[OzR18]

The Servo Buddy plugs into the wiring harness, replacing the servo motor. Nothing plugs into the servo motor.

As far as sound, it makes a bit of a difference at idle and low RPM. Since the ECM opens the valves at high RPM, these mods will not make any difference at that point.

Thanks again - Sounds like what I'm after.

You've been very helpful - Thank you

Now to find 2 x servo buddies in Australia.......

 

[XUMERX]

So I wanted to pull the trigger on the servo buddy... Revzilla now doesnt list them for the R18, anyone have the correct part numbers?

 

[Ulrich]

Yup ... this should help, that is the link of my order confirmation:

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle...dium=email&utm_source=RevZilla&sku_id=1185159

On the drop-down it does not list the R18 ... but these (you need 2) fit just fine for mine.

 

[kate_brett]

Thanks again - Sounds like what I'm after.

You've been very helpful - Thank you

Now to find 2 x servo buddies in Australia.......

Healtech ESE-BM1 exhaust servo eliminator for BMW R18. (x2).
l purchased these from a company in Vic. No issues.

 

[Dpolo1]

I have done this on mine and my dads r18. No issues so far
the steps you laid out are exactly what I did.

So you had to purchase to buddies for each bike

 

[Beachcowboy]

I will try to explain this as clearly as I can. The exhaust valve is connected to a servo motor that is electrically controlled by the Engine Control Module. The valve is also connected to a spring that holds it in the open position by default. There are three ways to ensure the valve stays open all the time:

1. Disconnect the two cables connecting the servo motor to the valve. This way the servo motor stays connected to the ECM and no fault codes are generated. The servo motoe continues to operate, but it's not controlling anything.

2. Disconnect the plug on the servo motor so it does not operate. You will need to purchase the Servo Buddy module and plug it in the harness replacing the servo motor to prevent fault codes.

3. Remove the servo motor and cables from the bike. You will need the Servo Buddy to prevent fault codes. This what I did.

Remember that you need two Servo Buddy modules because the R18 has 2 valves, one per side.

Hope this clears things up for you.

Hi, I just purchased a Healtech es eliminator plus a Healtech es eliminator with a switch to open or close the valves. Question.
1. Can I install the switch unit on any side or is it the left or the right?
When I install the es eliminator plug, will my valve be open by default?

Cheers,

 

[widu13]

Two different things. The Eliminator (you need two) allows you to remove your servo motor and have permanently open valves which is the default position with the cables removed. The other (again you need two) is a switch that allows you to control the servo, so you can run with the valve open or closed whichever you select or let the bike decide as it normally does.

 

[Noelpolar]

If you go the route of 2 switched Healtech es eliminator's I'd buy an addional 2 pole switch and wire them to it so that one switch operates both servos.....

I installed one of the switched units on my r ninet today.... works well.

Once I "do a Dave", and gut my fish tail exhausts I'll replace the standard Healtech's with switchable ones.

 

[Spartan]

Engine was cold, so I disconnected the servo connections in the attached photo assuming that the flaps are 100% open with cold engine, but I get no change in sound at idle nor at any rpm level. Even if there was minimal change, my ears couldn’t get it. . I have a 100 years model though, so my stock exhaust is Akrapovic, so maybe it is related with that? Also, is it possible that the flaps weren’t 100% open as some claim?

I got the warnings when I test rode it with the plugs disconnected, but when I reconnected it again, the warnings disappeared now but the annoying engine light is on now (without flashing). On the r18wiki site, I had read that the warnings would disappear, but I didn’t know that since it registered an error, engine light would appear now even if the error is fixed. How can I clear the engine light without going to the dealer? GS911 or a similar tool?

 

[Rufus]

Nope, think you got the wrong end of the stick. You don’t disconnect the servos, you leave them plugged in, you disconnect the actual servo cables from the rotating flapper. That way the ECU still thinks it’s all fine, the servo will still physically move the flapper cables but they are connected to nothing, so your flappers remain held open by their return spring.

I don’t know whether the system will recognise the system is all ok again and clear the engine light icon. Others may know. Regarding sound, it was explained well on another thread, the flappers only operate at low speeds so it’s not night and day different.

I did mine about a month ago, I removed my servo because it was making a ‘chirp’ sound that bugged me and installed two Healtech servo eliminator modules. Works like a charm. No fault icons.

 

[Spartan]

Am I misunderstanding this page about where to unplug in order to try and see the sound change, or is the information wrong? https://www.r1800wiki.org/en/2024/05/12/klappensteuerung-auspuff/

“Basically you can simply try out the sound image. You simply unplug the controller. An error message appears in the speedometer, but the flap remains 100% open.”

 

[Rufus]

You have the correct page. As I say, to my ears the difference in sound volume is subtle, but it’s there (when pulling away mostly). Another thing I think has changed, and I don’t think I’m imagining it, is that the bike will pull a little more cleanly from ridiculously low revs, presumably it can breathe a little easier. Hope you get sorted

 

[Star-Lord]

Am I misunderstanding this page about where to unplug in order to try and see the sound change, or is the information wrong? https://www.r1800wiki.org/en/2024/05/12/klappensteuerung-auspuff/

“Basically you can simply try out the sound image. You simply unplug the controller. An error message appears in the speedometer, but the flap remains 100% open.”

If you are just looking to test the sound and or performance, you only need to remove the servo cable, which opens & closes the exhaust gates; you don't need to disconnect the actual servo module electrical connections... I'd recommend removing it in its entirety, if you decide to leave the exhaust flaps in an open condition; get two Servo Buddy modules in order to fake the ECU out into thinking the servo module is installed and working properly...

Loosen the jab nuts in order to unlatch the cable anchor from the flap cam (I think two 10 mm wrenches is needed)

Anchors in Yellow:
Jab nuts in Red:

 

[Spartan]

f you are just looking to test the sound and or performance, you only need to remove the servo cable, which opens & closes the exhaust gates;

By servo cables, you mean the cables I detached (shown in the photo I posted), right? I did exactly that. To see if there was any improvement in sound.

But then, this creates another problem. It created warnings which was expected and because I didn’t notice any meaningful improvement, I decided to plug the cables back in. Only to find out that the warnings are gone but the engine light is on now…

I am assuming that the engine light is on permanently because of the previous warning codes. It can only be reset via the OBD2. Am I wrong in my assumption?

 

[Star-Lord]

By servo cables, you mean the cables I detached (shown in the photo I posted), right? I did exactly that. To see if there was any improvement in sound.

But then, this creates another problem. It created warnings which was expected and because I didn’t notice any meaningful improvement, I decided to plug the cables back in. Only to find out that the warnings are gone but the engine light is on now…

I am assuming that the engine light is on permanently because of the previous warning codes. It can only be reset via the OBD2. Am I wrong in my assumption?

No - you disconnected the electrical connectors or electrical control cables...

You want to disconnect that actual guide cable that rotates the cam, which is spring loaded and controls the position of the flap or gate within the exhaust system..

I posted an image, which shows the items to loosen and disconnect from the cam:

Yellow are the cable anchors and Red needs to be loosened in order to pull the brass anchor out of its anchor points; you'll see one anchor is already removed in the picture. You'll have to do the same thing on the other side or other exhaust: