Auxiliary LED Running Headlights Installation

Do the aux running lights help you see better or be seen better?
The aux. lights definitely light up the road better, and I'm assuming that that makes me more visible. And as to the "mini-high beam" illuminating the leaned over direction -- my R18 FE is attached to a sidecar, so I'm probably never going to see that feature.
 
The cost to add cruise control was the no-go on the FE and with the rest of the added bits on the Classic for the price difference made it an easy choice for me. I did mention this to BMW on their survey that more than a decade ago even Harley made a very easy plug and play option for a fraction of the cost of what BMW offers on the R18. The uncalled for cost to add cruise and the tube required rims are still a decision on BMW's end I don't understand especially after the R9T and it's derivatives all can now have cruise, tubeless spokes, etc., for less than the cost on the R18 to retrofit just the cruise option let alone the auxiliary lights and so forth.

As to the topic, I had the dealer raise my headlight as it was way too low even on high/main beam and as mentioned above the auxiliary lights spread is more low and wide like for foggy conditions rather driving lights with longer distance benefits.The headlight-pro added light while turning pleasantly surprised me as it adds quite a bit of light in tight curves and it would be nice if they were always on. Just my subjective thoughts, but if I had an FE and I was going for "the look" then the BMW set up is great, but if one finds themselves riding often in the dark on twisty roads with little or no street lighting I would first add some clearwater or similar aftermarket options as there is no contest as to their superior performance,
 
The cost to add cruise control was the no-go on the FE and with the rest of the added bits on the Classic for the price difference made it an easy choice for me. I did mention this to BMW on their survey that more than a decade ago even Harley made a very easy plug and play option for a fraction of the cost of what BMW offers on the R18. The uncalled for cost to add cruise and the tube required rims are still a decision on BMW's end I don't understand especially after the R9T and it's derivatives all can now have cruise, tubeless spokes, etc., for less than the cost on the R18 to retrofit just the cruise option let alone the auxiliary lights and so forth.

As to the topic, I had the dealer raise my headlight as it was way too low even on high/main beam and as mentioned above the auxiliary lights spread is more low and wide like for foggy conditions rather driving lights with longer distance benefits.The headlight-pro added light while turning pleasantly surprised me as it adds quite a bit of light in tight curves and it would be nice if they were always on. Just my subjective thoughts, but if I had an FE and I was going for "the look" then the BMW set up is great, but if one finds themselves riding often in the dark on twisty roads with little or no street lighting I would first add some clearwater or similar aftermarket options as there is no contest as to their superior performance,
R Nine T is still tubed on their spoked wheels. The GS models are ones that have special spoked wheels that can support tubeless, but they are a different design of spokes which may not fit the design desire on either the R Nine T or the R18. Those spokes spread to the outside of the rim (thus keeping the wheel air tight) and were more for strength off-road than the aesthetic.

I do agree that retro fit of cruise is more costly than I'd like, and at least current builds of the base R18 allow cruise control from the factory to make it more viable. I have cruise control on my S1000R, which is to be honest the least likely bike to benefit from it. I think it should have been standard on all R18 models, but as you made the calculation (as did I), the Classic is the bargain in the lineup. It can strip down to be a base R18, but comes with all the add ons you want for much less than adding them to a base R18 would cost.

You are spot on for best lighting for common secluded dark roads is the Clearwater. I have a set of the Ericas on my GS & they will light up the whole road like daylight for at least a 1/4 mile. My Classic isn't close to that, but for stock lights they aren't bad.
 
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R9T now has optional tubeless spoked rims or cast rims as an option for $475.00. The tubeless spokes look like Kineo sourced or knock off design.

We've enjoyed similar bikes and I agree with your assessment. I use cruise all the time and as much as I like all the modern electronics it really is the option I would pick if I could only have one. I had an S1000XR and I found I used cruise on that as much as my other bikes, great help when I wanted to relax my old wrists and very helpful in avoiding tickets when I am in tourist mode.. I was glad when they made it available on the liquid cooled GS models and then the entire R line as it was way overdue and silly not to have offered it all along. Over the years I've upgraded with HID kits and various incandescent driving lights and was happy to see BMW fully transition to LED (my 2016 S1000XR headlights were an embarrassment). For aftermarket I've had great results using Clearwater, Denali and Baja Designs in various configurations and my first ride at night on the R18 in deer country they were sorely missed so a bit more light fore and aft are on the short to do list.
 
R9T now has optional tubeless spoked rims or cast rims as an option for $475.00. The tubeless spokes look like Kineo sourced or knock off design.

We've enjoyed similar bikes and I agree with your assessment. I use cruise all the time and as much as I like all the modern electronics it really is the option I would pick if I could only have one. I had an S1000XR and I found I used cruise on that as much as my other bikes, great help when I wanted to relax my old wrists and very helpful in avoiding tickets when I am in tourist mode.. I was glad when they made it available on the liquid cooled GS models and then the entire R line as it was way overdue and silly not to have offered it all along. Over the years I've upgraded with HID kits and various incandescent driving lights and was happy to see BMW fully transition to LED (my 2016 S1000XR headlights were an embarrassment). For aftermarket I've had great results using Clearwater, Denali and Baja Designs in various configurations and my first ride at night on the R18 in deer country they were sorely missed so a bit more light fore and aft are on the short to do list.
I hadn’t known about the option 719 tubeless spoked wheels on the R NineT. The stock spoked wheels are tubes.

The tubeless version looks like they did this with raised parts on the inside of the rim where the spokes attach rather than piercing like the R18 or stock R Nine T or going to the outside of the rim like on the GS. I’m glad they are available, but aesthetically I prefer those on my R18.

To be fair though, most of my bikes are tubeless and I carry plug kits on any trips. I’ve been lucky though, in 25 years of riding, I’ve only had 2 punctures, so tubed vs tubeless hasn’t been a major impact.

For 2022 it looks like all the R18 models come with cast wheels stock which are tubeless. Spoked tubed wheels are an option.

For those with a base R18 wanted aux lights, it might be worth getting the light bar from the Classic which is ~$110 and then a set of Clearwater, Denali etc which are stronger than stock. You wouldn’t have an integrated switch, but something else on handlebar, but it would be more effective lighting and likely cheaper. Added bonus is the light bar also let’s you mount the Classic windshield.
 
I just ordered all of the necessary parts and such, from the R18 TC FE parts list in order to add the auxiliary lights and the wind deflectors to my R18 B FE; the wind deflectors will require me to swap out the front directionals for the Bagger model, for the TC style - which mounts below the Aux Lights. I'm not going to swap the switch for the TC switch assembly; I'll have the Aux Lights switch on with the Headlight, and have them remain on. Parts came out to ~$1,200 (including all screws) from Max BMW in CT; parts should be arriving next week's. I'll provide a write up with pictures for the DIY folks.IMG_20220715_155658087.jpgIMG_20220715_155710923.jpgIMG_20220715_155747684.jpg
 
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I typically ride with my HIGH-BEAM light ON during the daytime; however, I adjust it during night-time riding as a courtesy to oncoming traffic. I want to be as visible as possible during the day; I'm thinking of having my Auxiliary Lights come ON anytime the IGNITION is in the ON state - regardless of the headlight LOW or HIGH BEAM state. I'll use a BOSCH relay in order to trigger the Auxiliary Lights On as depicted below:

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I spoke with my dealer in SoCal the other day. They are available. The left side handlebar switch controller ships from Germany and is around $600. Also there are two different configs of the FE's triple tree. Make sure the bottom light bar mount bolt holes match up correctly. If not then you are out of luck. All in you're looking at around $1300. for all the bits. Two LED lights, bottom mounting bar, wiring harness and handlebar switch module. Plus labor or DIY.
Do you know why the FE Triple tree has two different configs?
What dictate the configs of the triple tree? Options or Region? Thanks.
 
Admittedly, my bike is not a Classic. It's an FE that I added the lightbar to. Attached is a picture of the new switch. You will note that I do not have cruise control. Where the previous switch simply said "MODE", this new one has the aux. lights icon and now serves as both "MODE" and turning on/off the aux. lights. There is no brightness selection.
Were there any warning lights or error code after the retro fitting of the Aux light and swithch?
 
Has anyone purchased and retro fitted their R18 FE with the OEM Auxiliary LED Running Headlights?

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When I purchased the windscreen the lower bracket is part of it. I purchased running lights on Amazon and fabbed some brackets. The oem lights screw on bar. My bracket attaches to bar and the light mount on the bracket. Took my time used some 1 1/2" angle iron and they look pretty good
 
Can you share any picture of the installation? Also, any existing wiring connections would be greatly appreciated; I'm still waiting on delivery of my auxiliary mounting bracket and the wiring harness for the leading directionals (blinkers) and the auxiliary lights from BMW. I was planning on using the installation documentation for the TFT screen in order to disassemble my fairing (B Model) in order to route cabling and make connections.
 
Can you share any picture of the installation? Also, any existing wiring connections would be greatly appreciated; I'm still waiting on delivery of my auxiliary mounting bracket and the wiring harness for the leading directionals (blinkers) and the auxiliary lights from BMW. I was planning on using the installation documentation for the TFT screen in order to disassemble my fairing (B Model) in order to route cabling and make connections.
I definitely need some help with figuring out the appropriate part number(s) for the auxiliary lights wiring. Can a TC owner try tracing back the wiring and get a P/N label?

More parts arrived today; however, I need figure out the above mentioned.IMG_20220826_180027354.jpgIMG_20220826_175629521_HDR.jpg
 
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Has anyone purchased and retro fitted their R18 FE with the OEM Auxiliary LED Running Headlights?

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As I said in a previous post. I haven't been able to get the aux lights from Las Vegas or Spokane (I have dual citizenship) so I made brackets to fit on the lower part of my windscreen where they would normally mount an I'm just going to do like the harley pilots I know and just wire them in to come on with the headlight. Didn't want to but can't get the switch or lights so in the spirit of my BMW mentor, I'll make it work.
 
…I'm just going to do like the harley pilots I know and just wire them in to come on with the headlight. Didn't want to but can't get the switch or lights so in the spirit of my BMW mentor, I'll make it work.
That sounds like a quick way to meet Mr. CANbus, but I’ll recuse to your mentor.
 
I installed the Transcontinental Auxiliary Lights, Bracket, Winglets and Blinkers this morning on my Model B; however, I still need to figure out the part number for the TC Auxiliary Light(s) wire harness (Need HELP from TC owners). I used the existing leading directional blinker wiring for the TC blinkers, which are now relocated onto the bracket; this allows me to use the winglets without any interference from the B model blinker location. The hardest part of the install was the fork sleeve cover and clam shell cap in order to access the blinker wiring. I'll replace the Model B fork sleeve clam shell covers when I have the front shocks in for service; plus, I'm still waiting on the delivery of the TC Clam Shell covers to arrive from Germany. I used the Motorrad blinker installation guide for most of the work; I didn't have to remove the from fairing side pieces, due to using the existing Model B blinker wiring (sacrificed the blinkers as they both showed some rubbing damage from the TC installed winglets).

More to follow as the project is approximately 75% complete as this point.

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I installed the Transcontinental Auxiliary Lights, Bracket, Winglets and Blinkers this morning on my Model B; however, I still need to figure out the part number for the TC Auxiliary Light(s) wire harness (Need HELP from TC owners). I used the existing leading directional blinker wiring for the TC blinkers, which are now relocated onto the bracket; this allows me to use the winglets without any interference from the B model blinker location. The hardest part of the install was the fork sleeve cover and clam shell cap in order to access the blinker wiring. I'll replace the Model B fork sleeve clam shell covers when I have the front shocks in for service; plus, I'm still waiting on the delivery of the TC Clam Shell covers to arrive from Germany. I used the Motorrad blinker installation guide for most of the work; I didn't have to remove the from fairing side pieces, due to using the existing Model B blinker wiring (sacrificed the blinkers as they both showed some rubbing damage from the TC installed winglets).

More to follow as the project is approximately 75% complete as this point.

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Making some great headway with this project; the new wire harness arrived yesterday and it was the correct part that I was looking for, where it came complete with the electrical connections for the leading blinker directional lights, as well as the auxiliary lights. By removing the Clutch-Side fairing panel, I was able to access the OEM directional and auxiliary electrical connections. I'm NOT going to power the auxiliary lights with the OEM electrical source, as I'm avoiding the purchase of the TC Switch Tree ($600+) in order to not trigger any warning lights on my Model B. I'm going to power the Auxiliary Lights via the 5A Accessory Socket located on the Instrument Dash; I tested the current draw of the LED Auxiliary Lights in order to make sure that they don't exceed the 5A rating of that circuit. I pulled the Accessory socket, and will replace it with an 16mm IP68 LED push-button switch in order to turn the Auxiliary Lights ON/OFF.

Black Color w/ White Light Electrical Switch is arriving today or tomorrow; more to follow on this effort:

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