David R
Well-known member
You are spot on.
Max sent me this for my 21 R18
Max sent me this for my 21 R18
Cost of first service
- Thread starter HerrFarber
- Start date
David R
Well-known member
This is what Hermys sent me at $76 for 500 ml. FD holds 210 ml. It was on my receipt. 
I'm not really following. Does the final drive take 75w-90 or 70w-80? GL-4 or GL-5 or either? Or am I just adding fuel to the fire here? Maybe someone could do like a here's what's recommended and here's acceptable alternatives spreadsheet or something?
raTm
New member
My service light turned on this weekend at 1000km exactly.
David R
Well-known member
This is the only recommended Final Drive Fluid.
It’s in the manual.
David
It’s in the manual.
David
Sir. The Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic gear lube has the following rating: API GL5
While BMW says to use "G3" rated oil, that's actually a non-standard rating (dare I say BMW made-up rating?). Other than what BMW sells, G3 doesn't exist. The label on the BMW G3 lube also specifies GL5.
As for the viscosity rating, you'll also probably never see a 70W-80 rating on any label other than what BMW sells. Yet another way to convince the riders that they MUST use the EXPENSIVE lube that BMW sells. The difference between 70W-80 and 75W-90 is too slight to consider. In fact, if one were to split hairs, the ever-so-slightly heavier rating of the Mobil 1 lube would serve to make it slightly better at high temperatures.
Last thing to consider: Hypoid GL5 specifically means "The designation API GL-5 denotes lubricants intended for gears, particularly hypoid gears, in axles operating under various combinations of high-speed/shock load and low-speed/high-torque conditions. The performance specifications for API GL-5 are defined in the most recent version of ASTM D7450. Frictional requirements for axles equipped with limited-slip differentials are normally defined by the axle manufacturer." Copied from the following... www.API.org
Lastly, I should say that I have no issue with any manufacturer making a profit on their products. But when the costs of common maintenance get into a range that would tax anyone but the "very well heeled", I take exception to it and look to alternatives that get the job done as well as, or better, than their marketing department (and engineering department) can (or will) offer.
Please note the GL5 rating and read my post above.
Did you even read my post? It looks like you just used it as a springboard to rant about their spec and their warranty. I don't disagree with your words and I hate their spec on this final drive fluid too but all of those words have absolutely NO BEARING on what I wrote. For my 3-year warranty I am not going to use any product that would put an applicable part of the warranty in danger.
Yes I did read your earlier post, GP. And I intended no confrontation. I only wanted to show the riders that, if they can't afford three bottles of BMW's EXPENSIVE gear lube, there is an alternative that meets or exceeds BMW's specifications. The OEM spec of G3 is not a universally known standard. In fact it appears to be a fictitious rating that BMW hopes to will scare owners into buying their lube. There are MANY posts on other BMW forums about this issue. The American Petroleum Institute sets the world's standards for lubrication types and ratings. https://www.api.org/ For that reason even BMW states their gear lube's rating as GL5.
For what it's worth, I have no ax to grind in this topic. I simply want to be helpful to those who can't afford approximately $180 in gear lube to service their transmission & final drive. And I do put my money where my mouth is. When my local dealership did the first service, they didn't change the tranny & final drive lubes because it was out of stock at the time. So yesterday evening, I changed out the two gear lubes in my R18 and poured in Mobil 1. I've already taken it for a couple of rides and it operates perfectly.
Lastly, I want to mention that I have seen a video on YouTube in which a gent mentions that some BMW auto dealers sell the "G3" lube a little cheaper than the motorcycle dealerships.
David R
Well-known member
Educating people is fine.
When I changed mine, I used the 75W90 pictured above that came from MAX for that bike. I did it because it had a squirty top. It was marked on the side so I could get the 210 ml in the bike.
Its lunch time and I am discussing this with my 30 year old son. We own a repair shop.
There is minimal difference to me between 70W80 or 75W90. Both are synthetic.
Each person can do as they want.
I probably said it at the beginning of the thread, If I had to pay BMW for my maintenance, I could not afford to own the bike.
For warranty purpose, they could send a sample to be evaluated. Its more of a call at the dealer.
They could do the same for engine oil.
My last BMW is at 74,000 with Napa 10W40 and 1348 Napa filter. I used Napa Synthetic gear oil for the rest.
Zero problems.
Gotta have an oil thread.
Enjoy your ride.
David
At dunkin this morning on my way to work
Looking forward to taking the long way home along Oak Orchard Creek road.
When I changed mine, I used the 75W90 pictured above that came from MAX for that bike. I did it because it had a squirty top. It was marked on the side so I could get the 210 ml in the bike.
Its lunch time and I am discussing this with my 30 year old son. We own a repair shop.
There is minimal difference to me between 70W80 or 75W90. Both are synthetic.
Each person can do as they want.
I probably said it at the beginning of the thread, If I had to pay BMW for my maintenance, I could not afford to own the bike.
For warranty purpose, they could send a sample to be evaluated. Its more of a call at the dealer.
They could do the same for engine oil.
My last BMW is at 74,000 with Napa 10W40 and 1348 Napa filter. I used Napa Synthetic gear oil for the rest.
Zero problems.
Gotta have an oil thread.
Enjoy your ride.
David
At dunkin this morning on my way to work
Looking forward to taking the long way home along Oak Orchard Creek road.
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And being in an oil thread is the last place I want to be. My point - last attempt - was about not giving the OEM enough wiggle room to not honor a warranty claim. Yep, that is good oil you’ve described, there are a lot of great brands, and there are tests that can be done. And who will pay for all of that?By the time all that is funded by the poor owner they could’ve bought the spec’d stuff with money to spare. My post was never about the quality of any brand of oil. Maybe I’ve just lost enough battles over “making a point” that I am careful about choosing which battles are worth drawing the proverbial line in the sand for. For me, I figure if Ican swing buying an R-18 I can at least afford to have a hassle free warranty period. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is not without limitation.
I think that we've all made some good points here. Ultimately we each have to look at the facts and make our own decision on the best course of action, giving our individual depth of the wallet.
David R and Gaylord Poe, if we were within "striking distance" I'd like to buy you each a few beers! Just maybe we'd carry on this conversation. But we'll do it as friends. Thanks for the input.
Salute!
David R and Gaylord Poe, if we were within "striking distance" I'd like to buy you each a few beers! Just maybe we'd carry on this conversation. But we'll do it as friends. Thanks for the input.
Salute!
Back at ya my friend!
If you guys OR any other rider here are even close to the south-east Tennessee/Chattanooga area... lets RIDE!
estoma
Well-known member
All good points chewed up here. Head over to Adventure Rider - Ride the World. (advrider.com) and many a tale of woe will surface on (very costly) BMW motorcycle final drive failures, with almost as many claims not honoured by the OEM. A lot has improved of late, but the R18 with its exposed driveshaft IS something completely new, probably rewarding bearing stresses and wear patterns hitherto unbeknown at the rear end. Also, that exposed universal joint back there sure looks good but is no CV joint, meaning it might potentially live as long as those on Morris Minors did, e.g. not 74k. And one would not wish BMW to claim that it failed because one did not follow their final drive lubrication requirements, irrespective of one's opinion. So I would side with following the OEM down to the proverbial letter in this case. We all bought first-year models to boot. I even take photos of my oil changes - most recent on my Rocket;
Good to hear another rider opine about BMW's warranty performance on final drives. We must have went to the same "School of Hard Knocks". What year did you graduate? I graduated with honors (hehehe) at 16 yrs. old (1967).
Tony the Skin
Member
£150 including £25 tax. Engine oil and filter changed. 690 miles.
By the way guys... the final drive is easy, what with the drain and fill ports being right there. But the fill port for the transmission is not so apparent. It takes a funnel with a hose to get the fluid in there.
raTm
New member
305,52 CAD, taxes included, done in Sherbrooke, Qc.
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estoma
Well-known member
Not so long ago still, in SA at least, the initial oil change labour would be free - only costing you the charge for lubricants, filter(s) and related sundries.