Exhaust Servo

raksonline said:
Did you take the whole assembly out? Or just removed cable from the pulley?
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Just removed the cables. To date, removing DB killers/disabling servos has been plenty of exhaust noise for me. Would rather not pay thousands of dollars for pipes/mufflers, tunes, deletes, blah blah when "fun noise" can be had for free lol.

Disabling the cables will cause an OBD fault, but not a screen/display "check engine". I did get both sides out as well, though I had to partially disassemble the throttle side control box to get a little bit of extra slack to get the small retainer out. Doesn't seem to be as big of a difference as the R9T, but I haven't done anything aside from idle it tonight. Seems like it takes the ECU a few rides to adapt to the flow change as well.
 
Kickstand_Down said:
Just removed the cables. To date, removing DB killers/disabling servos has been plenty of exhaust noise for me. Would rather not pay thousands of dollars for pipes/mufflers, tunes, deletes, blah blah when "fun noise" can be had for free lol.

Disabling the cables will cause an OBD fault, but not a screen/display "check engine". I did get both sides out as well, though I had to partially disassemble the throttle side control box to get a little bit of extra slack to get the small retainer out. Doesn't seem to be as big of a difference as the R9T, but I haven't done anything aside from idle it tonight. Seems like it takes the ECU a few rides to adapt to the flow change as well.
Click to expand...
Agreed. We are on a same mission on a shoe string budget. I have not done db killers yet, fear of ruining the exhaust. I like the low rpm mellow rumble servo delete gave to my bike.
 
raksonline said:
Agreed. We are on a same mission on a shoe string budget. I have not done db killers yet, fear of ruining the exhaust. I like the low rpm mellow rumble servo delete gave to my bike.
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Oh, yea I haven't honestly even looked at them yet. If it isn't as simple as most slip on cans in terms of either taking a cap off and popping them out or even dremeling a couple of welds, I'm not gutting it or anything.
 
moleculo said:
Tonight I located the flapper valve and servo but I'm still unclear on how to perform this mod without throwing error codes. Is this the correct Servo Buddy? https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle...490a1c0e12&cjdata=MXxOfDB8WXww&sku_id=1185159

Also, does anyone have a step-by-step instruction on how to perform this mod? The Freedom Performance mufflers should be here any day and I'd like to do this at the same time.
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Does the servo removal require the purchase of two servo buddy kits?
 
Kickstand_Down said:
Just removed the cables. To date, removing DB killers/disabling servos has been plenty of exhaust noise for me. Would rather not pay thousands of dollars for pipes/mufflers, tunes, deletes, blah blah when "fun noise" can be had for free lol.

Disabling the cables will cause an OBD fault, but not a screen/display "check engine". I did get both sides out as well, though I had to partially disassemble the throttle side control box to get a little bit of extra slack to get the small retainer out. Doesn't seem to be as big of a difference as the R9T, but I haven't done anything aside from idle it tonight. Seems like it takes the ECU a few rides to adapt to the flow change as well.
Click to expand...

Does the OBD fault that is generated with the removal of the servo cables CLEAR, once the Servo Buddy modules are installed, IF the engine was started and generated a fault code after removing the cables, and prior to connecting the Servo Buddy modules?
 
Scott Semone said:
Does the OBD fault that is generated with the removal of the servo cables CLEAR, once the Servo Buddy modules are installed, IF the engine was started and generated a fault code after removing the cables, and prior to connecting the Servo Buddy modules?
Click to expand...
I haven't used servo buddies, but is is my understanding that if you add them with the bike turned off (without having previously disconnected the servo and/or flap cables) they will not throw an OBD code. Again, haven't personally done it, but that's what I've read from folks who use servo buddies.

Basically, if the code ever existed, the only way to clear it is with a tool. If the code never came up, it will not with servo buddies.
 
Kickstand_Down said:
I haven't used servo buddies, but is is my understanding that if you add them with the bike turned off (without having previously disconnected the servo and/or flap cables) they will not throw an OBD code. Again, haven't personally done it, but that's what I've read from folks who use servo buddies.

Basically, if the code ever existed, the only way to clear it is with a tool. If the code never came up, it will not with servo buddies.
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That’s how it worked for me.
 
question on flapper valves:
I am planning to remove the cables between valves and servo (2 per valve)... would it be sufficient to only unhook the cables at the valvce itself? Or should I also un-hook at the servobox and remove the cables all together?

Reason for me wanting to eliminate valve operation is not the need for more sound, hate that actually, but I am suspecting these valve operations (closing at low rpm / speed (because of noise reduction) are causing actual engine overheating at low speeds or stop situations (eg traffic jam) .
The exhaust gasses are then blocked and the heads/cylinders overheat.
This was mentioned earlier in this thread, but I actually experienced such an overheat situation last summer.

Please your comments,
br
Ser
 
sjeuf12 said:
question on flapper valves:
I am planning to remove the cables between valves and servo (2 per valve)... would it be sufficient to only unhook the cables at the valvce itself? Or should I also un-hook at the servobox and remove the cables all together?

Reason for me wanting to eliminate valve operation is not the need for more sound, hate that actually, but I am suspecting these valve operations (closing at low rpm / speed (because of noise reduction) are causing actual engine overheating at low speeds or stop situations (eg traffic jam) .
The exhaust gasses are then blocked and the heads/cylinders overheat.
This was mentioned earlier in this thread, but I actually experienced such an overheat situation last summer.

Please your comments,
br
Ser
Click to expand...
The flap is engineered to "fail open", so if you remove the cable holders on the flap side, they are spring loaded to stay 100% open. I never saw where they end (they go up into a plastic box sort of thing in the center of the bike, assuming that's where the servos themselves are located).

I actually put mine back into operation because it made next to no discernable sound difference (not what you're after in any case), and if I did it again, I would just pay $150 for a pair of servo buddies as those cables were a HUGE pain in the ass to remove and a double HUGE pain in the ass to get back into their slots. Honestly hoping to find some exhaust headers I like that eliminate the cats and valves altogether at some point. The exhaust system (no doubt a regulatory requirement) is an absolute nightmare under the bike.
 
sjeuf12 said:
question on flapper valves:
I am planning to remove the cables between valves and servo (2 per valve)... would it be sufficient to only unhook the cables at the valvce itself? Or should I also un-hook at the servobox and remove the cables all together?

Reason for me wanting to eliminate valve operation is not the need for more sound, hate that actually, but I am suspecting these valve operations (closing at low rpm / speed (because of noise reduction) are causing actual engine overheating at low speeds or stop situations (eg traffic jam) .
The exhaust gasses are then blocked and the heads/cylinders overheat.
This was mentioned earlier in this thread, but I actually experienced such an overheat situation last summer.

Please your comments,
br
Ser
Click to expand...
I just recently removed the cables and the entire servo module; it took all of 10 min. Probably easiest to remove the cable anchors from the flap pivot point; there is torx screw which holds a plastic cover over the flap mechanism; once removed, you can manipulate the cable into the slot and then pull the anchor free.

Not sure if removing the cables will generate an error code? Perhaps there is some sort of expected feedback that the servo module is looking for?

Might be worth getting two Servo Buddy modules in order to suppress any error codes? Might as well remove the servo module as well (reduced weight)?

If I can find any pictures, I'll post them.. the attached pictures are a great example of what I was describing (Thank you); I marked up the picture with RED dots.

Loosen the two nuts used to adjust the cable tension, that will provide enough slack in the cable to remove it off of the wheel guide, then manipulate the cable into the slot in order to free the anchor entirely.
 
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Scott Semone said:
I just recently removed the cables and the entire servo module; it took all of 10 min. Probably easiest to remove the cable anchors from the flap pivot point; there is torx screw which holds a plastic cover over the flap mechanism; once removed, you can manipulate the cable into the slot and then pull the anchor free.

Not sure if removing the cables will generate an error code? Perhaps there is some sort of expected feedback that the servo module is looking for?

Might be worth getting two Servo Buddy modules in order to suppress any error codes? Might as well remove the servo module as well (reduced weight)?

If I can find any pictures, I'll post them..
Click to expand...
Pics would be awesome!
 

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Scott Semone said:
I just recently removed the cables and the entire servo module; it took all of 10 min. Probably easiest to remove the cable anchors from the flap pivot point; there is torx screw which holds a plastic cover over the flap mechanism; once removed, you can manipulate the cable into the slot and then pull the anchor free.

Not sure if removing the cables will generate an error code? Perhaps there is some sort of expected feedback that the servo module is looking for?

Might be worth getting two Servo Buddy modules in order to suppress any error codes? Might as well remove the servo module as well (reduced weight)?

If I can find any pictures, I'll post them..
Click to expand...
 
Scott Semone said:
I just recently removed the cables and the entire servo module; it took all of 10 min. Probably easiest to remove the cable anchors from the flap pivot point; there is torx screw which holds a plastic cover over the flap mechanism; once removed, you can manipulate the cable into the slot and then pull the anchor free.

Not sure if removing the cables will generate an error code? Perhaps there is some sort of expected feedback that the servo module is looking for?

Might be worth getting two Servo Buddy modules in order to suppress any error codes? Might as well remove the servo module as well (reduced weight)?

If I can find any pictures, I'll post them.. the attached pictures are a great example of what I was describing (Thank you); I marked up the picture with RED dots.

Loosen the two nuts used to adjust the cable tension, that will provide enough slack in the cable to remove it off of the wheel guide, then manipulate the cable into the slot in order to free the anchor entirely.
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20221228-142717-224.png
 
I've heard two different bikes in person with the same Freedom Exhaust mufflers...one bike with the servos still installed and functioning and one without them. There is definitely a difference in sound at idle. It's not super loud without the servos; it's just not suppressed anymore.
 
As someone said earlier, a complete removal of the system would eliminate a possible failure in the closed position. Hmmm.... exhaust flaps seems like engineering overkill.
 
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