There is a lot they missed . Fuel gauge for one. Second they should have had some kind of suspension adjustment lever - I agree. But I will wager that the next iteration will have a fuel gauge AND I think they will put some kind of Dynamic Electronic Suspension system into the R18 - just my opinion ... they have the tech .. just need to recalibrate and rework it for this bikeOn my R1200 C there is a handle with direct access to adjust the rear suspension.
So it's much easier to set when having a passenger.
A shame they didn't do the same on the R 18.
This is very helpful David . Thank you . Where I live (Mumbai) the roads SUCK ! The R 18 demo I got ... had shipping settings on the rear shock ... that was pure torture. Thanks to this forum and the post by one of the admins, who highlighted the issue I was able to play with the suspension . Since it was a demo bike I was not able to fiddle too much as time was short. So regrettably I only got up to 5 ... I would ideally have liked to play with the settings a lot more.... So this information is most usefulOK, I got ambitious. My wife does not read a tape measure like I want, so I had my son. He had done this many times.
Rear suspension travel is 90 mm. 3.5"
Sag should be set at 25% of travel with me on the bike for the rear. Front should be 30 to 35%. Or 1/3.
I cranked it all the way up, It went to 24" from an arbitrary point directly above the rear axle.
At this point the suspension was topped out. My weight (199.9lbs) did not move the bike. Still 24".
As I cranked it down, at about 8-11 turns from all the way down, I got my 22.5 mm sag. (90 X 25%=22.5)
This is using the 24" figure to start and when I got to 7/8" or 23 1/8" on the tape measure. It rides well. I set it to 18 turns for wife and I. It seemed to ride quite well. Big bumps will always be a problem, but the little ones went away.
I did all this because reading the shock is progressive, it gets stiffer (shock not spring) as suspension compresses. This could be why it rides so bad when its all the way lowered. I also want all the ride height I can get to drag the pegs less.
I put a line on the screw that adjusts the shock so I could count turns and used a ratchet with extension.
I think it rides great especially compared to when I picked it up and it was all the way lowered.
Just a note, when the wife got off, I went to work with out adjusting. It was a little stiff, not bad at all. I adjusted it for my hour ride home.
yes, not the stop, as you described zero, I went ten turns from there!There may be some confusion about what zero is.
If the preload adjuster is backed off (full anti-clockwise rotation) until it stops turning, that is not zero. Turning the preload adjuster clock-wise from it's stopped position, until you feel some resistance, that is zero.
BUT as long as your adjustment results in a better ride, it is GOOD!
I agree a lot of shops could care less it seems. That is not the case with my dealer in toronto. While I have developed a personal relationship with Adam over the years, they sure take care of me! BMW Toronto.That is one of my biggest complaints about today's corporate owned motorcycle shops. They sell you the bike and basically send you on your way. They don't go over the bike with you nor set-it up for your weight. You've got questions, swing by, but don't ask the salesman, he doesn't know anything. They have to find a tech to work with you.
That's why when I buy my Aprilias I always go to the same shop. When you buy the bike, the go over EVERYTHING and they set up the suspension and anything else that needs to be adjusted to your weight or desire.
I'm glad I found this thread. I'll give it a go this next week. I would guess the way I adjusted it, I was a few turns down from the manual cause full lock CCW was my starting point. I'm hoping this works as that rear shock or lets say, ride is currently as bad as my 2017 FLSS, pre-M8 where they went to the monoshock set up which was excellent.
And based on what I'm reading, it seems one should go up a couple turns to be a little more accurate.